—(1) If the boards are in the rough, plane one surface of each true and out of wind. (2) Pencil the face marks upon these surfaces and indicate in some way the direction of the surface grain as well. Later, it will be necessary to plane both pieces at once in surfacing over the joints, and unless the parts are fitted with proper regard to the grain, it will be impossible to plane one without roughing up the other. Then too, the faces should be so selected that the warpage of one shall counteract the warpage of the other. [Fig. 151] shows the manner of placing the pieces. Observe the rings of growth. [Chapter 12]. (3) Joint one edge of each piece straight and square. The final plane strokes must be taken the full length of the board and the plane-iron must be set very shallow. Since the shrinkage is more at the ends than in the middle, sometimes the middles of long boards are planed just a shaving or two lower than the ends. (4) Place one of the boards in the vise, jointed edge up, and place the other board in position on it. Four tests are commonly used: First, placing the eye on a level with the joint and looking toward the light, [Fig. 152]; second, tapping the under board lightly to see if the top board “rocks”; third, sliding the top board lengthwise slowly to “feel” for suction; fourth, holding a straightedge as shown in [Fig. 153] to see that the faces lie in the same plane. (5) Glue the edges, [Fig. 154]. Work rapidly but carefully. (6) Place the parts in the clamps and set away to dry; ten hours is usually long enough. Keep the faces as even as possible in applying the clamps. (7) When the glue has hardened the clamps may be removed, the surplus glue scraped off and the parts treated as one piece in squaring it up.
Fig. 152.
Fig. 153.
Fig. 154.
85. Doweling.
—Dowels are small wooden pins used in joining parts together. Dowels can be bought ready made in a variety of sizes. If desired short dowels may be made as follows: (1) Select straight-grained strong wood—beech, birch or oak; waste wood can usually be found that will do. (2) Split, not saw, these pieces roughly to square prisms. The blocks from which they are to be split should not be over eight or ten inches long to work well. (3) Plane off the irregularities, roughly rounding the pieces to size. (4) Point the ends slightly and drive the pieces thru a dowel plate. [Fig. 155]. The pegs should be driven thru the larger hole first. The holes of the dowel plate are larger in diameter on one side of the plate than on the other to give clearance to the peg as it is driven thru.
