Fig. 155.
The cutting edge of the hole is at the smaller diameter; place that side of the plate up. Never use a hammer as it would split the top of the peg and would ruin the cutting edge of the dowel plate should it strike it. Use a mallet, and when the peg is nearly thru finish by striking a second peg placed upon the head of the first.
86. Directions for Doweling.
—(1) Place the boards to be doweled side by side in the vise, the face sides out, and even the jointed edges. (2) Square lines across the two edges with knife and trysquare at points where it is desired to locate dowels. (3) Set the gage for about half the thickness of the finished board and gage from the face side across the knife lines. (4) At the resulting crosses bore holes of the same diameter as that of the dowel.
Fig. 156.
These holes should be bored to a uniform depth. Count the turns of the brace. One inch is a good depth for ordinary work. (5) Countersink the holes slightly, just enough to remove the sharp arrises. This removes any bur and allows a little space into which the surplus glue may run. (6) Cut the sharp arrises off the dowel, just enough to allow it to be started into the hole. (7) With a stick slightly smaller than the hole, place glue upon the sides of the hole, and drive the dowel in. A small V-shaped groove previously cut along the side of the dowel will allow the surplus glue to escape and thus prevent any danger of splitting the board. (8) Clean off the surplus glue, unless the members can be placed together before it has had time to set. (9) Saw off the dowels to a length slightly less than the depth of the holes in the second piece. (10) Trim off the sharp arrises. [Fig. 156]. (11) Glue the holes and the edge of the second board. (12) Put the two members in the clamps and set away until the glue has had time to harden.
Fig. 157.