Fig. 163.
Fig. 164.
96. Directions for Cutting Mortise.
—Second Method: (1) Clamp the piece which is to be mortised firmly to the bench top, using a hand clamp. [Fig. 163] shows a little device called a mortise grip. Tighten the vise screw and tap the grip with the mallet until it holds the piece solidly. (2) Select a chisel of a width equal to that desired for the mortise. Stand well back of the mortise at one end or the other so as to be able to sight the chisel plumb with reference to the sides of the mortise. (3) Begin the cutting in the center of the mortise. Make the first cut with the bevel of the chisel toward you; reverse the bevel and cut out the wedge-shaped piece, w, [Fig. 164]. (4) Continue cutting in this manner until the proper depth has been attained, making the opening no larger at the surface than is necessary. (5) Set the chisel in a vertical position, bevel towards you, begin at the center and, taking thin slices, cut toward the farther end. Drive the chisel the full depth of the mortise each time, then pull the handle towards you to break the chip from the sides of the mortise. Cut to within one-eighth of an inch of the end of the mortise. (6) Reverse the piece, or your position, and cut in a similar manner to within one-eighth of an inch of the second end. (7) With the bevel side of the chisel next the end of the mortise pry out the chips once or twice as the cutting proceeds. (8) Chisel the ends to the knife lines, carefully sighting the chisel for the two directions. [Fig. 165] suggests the order.
Fig. 165.
97. Miter Joint.
—The miter joint is subject to various modifications. In the plain miter, [Fig. 166], the ends or edges abut. They are usually fastened with glue or nails or both. The most common form of the plain miter is that in which the slope is at an angle of forty-five degrees to the edge or side.