Fig. 166.
Fig. 167.
98. Directions for Miter Joint.
—(1) Lay off the slopes (see [Chapter I], [Section 4]). (2) Cut and fit the parts. To fit and fasten four miter joints, such as are found in a picture frame, is no easy task. Special miter boxes are made for this purpose which make such work comparatively easy. (3) [Fig. 167] shows the manner of applying the hand clamps to a simple miter joint. When a joint is to be nailed, drive the nail thru one piece until its point projects slightly. Place the second piece in the vise to hold it firmly. Hold the first piece so that its end projects somewhat over and beyond that of the second; the nailing will tend to bring it to its proper position, [Fig. 168]. If a nail is driven thru from the other direction, care must be taken to so place it that it will not strike the first, or a split join will result.
Fig. 168.
99. Dovetail Joint.
—Dovetailed joints are so named from the shape of the pieces which make the joint. [Fig. 169] shows a thru multiple dovetail commonly used in fastening the corners of tool boxes. In hand made dovetails, the tenons are very narrow and the mortises wide, while in machine made dovetails, tenons and mortises are of equal width. Mechanics lay out the tenons without measurement, depending upon the eye unaided to give the proper size and shape. Sometimes dovetails are laid out to exact shape and size, the tenons being marked on both sides and ends. The mortises are marked with trysquare and bevel after one side of each has been marked by superimposing the tenons. In some kinds of dovetailing, such as the half-blind dovetail, the mortises are made first and the tenons marked out from them by superposition.