A Sketch of the 29th Regiment of Connecticut Colored Troops

by Isaac J. Hill

When the division moved I stood and looked after the column until the line was lost to view, and then I returned to my lonely tent, and it appeared as if I were the only living man in Texas. During the evening some friends called on me from the 31st colored regiment and we spent the evening as pleasantly as we could, the theme of our conversation being our beloved friends at home and our dissatisfaction at what we had seen of Texas. When my friends left for their camp I lay down on my lonesome bed to sleep, having the starry decked heavens for my canopy and the green earth for my pillow.

The morning of the 10th I arose at 4 o'clock, and as was my habit, I took a walk up the river. The sun arose beautifully and clear with a pleasant breeze. At 8 A.M. the Lieutenant took breakfast, and while at the table said, "Mr. Hill, I am going to Brazos at 9 o'clock, and I want you to take charge while I am absent." I complied. After he left I began to feel more lonesome than ever and to think of my beloved family, until I became quite home-sick, and the day appeared like a week. In the evening, at 10 o'clock, the Lieutenant returned hungry and tired; after he had supper he said to me, "We will not be able to get away from here for a week. I can get no transportation." I enquired the cause; he said, "The roads are so bad the wagons can't run, and we have but one boat running to Brownsville, and it is loaded down with rations for the men, as there are none at Brownsville." I thought this singular, but did not reply until he was through, and then I said, "Lieutenant, when did the brigade get to Brownsville?" he said, "They will get there this evening sometime." I was a disbeliever in the 29th not marching twenty-eight miles in two days when I knew them to march sixteen miles from 4 in evening until 2 in the morning, and having marching orders at that, and went into a fight the next morning at 6 o'clock. I had not forgotten their marching ability, therefore it was a wonder to me why they should be so long going twenty-eight miles.

I had sent the mail ahead, consequently I made up my mind to walk up next morning. In the evening there were a great many sick soldiers returned that were unable to go through the mud and were therefore compelled to turn back. They spoke very discouragingly of the journey. I went for the doctor for some, and for others made tea and gave them something to eat. When the poor soldiers that knew me found I was there, I never saw men so glad in my life. They had met me on the battle-field, and had seen the interest I had ofttimes taken in the sick and wounded soldiers, therefore they were satisfied I would see they were treated right and had something to eat. After I had seen them all attended to, I laid down to rest, it being late at night.

The morning of the 12th inst. came. I arose at 5 o'clock and got my breakfast and took my books and portfolio, bid the Lieutenant good-bye and started on foot for Brownsville. I thought of getting to my post that day, but I had not gone more than six miles before I saw my expectations were blasted. It had not rained in this part of Texas for six weeks, and yet the mud in the roads was in places up to a man's knees and for miles hub deep. I was astonished to see the many stragglers strewed all along the road. Many of them died and were buried in the forest, with nothing to look at their graves but the wild beasts of prey. I walked on until 1 P.M. and was only ten miles from White Rench, the place I left. I sat down and ate my homely dinner alone. I bowed to God and thanked him for his goodness and care over me and committed my family to his care, I then started on my journey again. Being accustomed to smoking after eating I got sick going without it, not having any matches or fire with which to light my pipe. In all my journey there was not a house to be seen. I went on wishing in my mind that I had a light, and while I was walking I came to where the troops had halted and had a fire in the road. There were two small chunks lying in the road. I took one of them up and said, "I wish I had got here before this went out." I blowed the chunk on the end, and to my surprise, right in the heart was a live coal of fire about as large as a hickory-nut. I lit my pipe and felt thankful. I carried the chunk some ways, and thought the good Lord had provided this comfort of life for me, when in a land of strangers and far from home.

When I left White Rench in the morning, I had two haversacks filled with rations, but I had by this time reduced them down to two hard tacks, for I had met so many poor soldiers sick and given out, left behind with nothing to eat. I shared with them until the last was gone. I found I would not be able to get to Brownsville that night, and I said to myself, "What will I do for something to eat?" but I thought the Lord would provide something for me; therefore, I trusted in him as my provider and shield. The evening began to draw near and I was seven miles from Brownsville and two of that was water waist deep. At 7 P.M. I arrived at the first water, which was a run about eight rods wide and four feet and a half deep. Here I met with a large number of sick, worn and wearied soldiers; they were getting supper, and when they saw me they were made up and gave me a nice supper. We all concluded to stop there over night, and cross the run in the morning. We soon laid down and I said "Boys, I don't think it proper for all of us to go to sleep, and I will take the first watch. This country don't suit me." The men soon fell asleep, and I lay on the ground and looked at the beautiful moon, and listened to the many sounds of the great number of strange beasts of the forest. I laid there until 2 o'clock and was thinking of my home and beloved friends, when my attention was aroused by a drove of dogs as I thought, coming through the bushes. I got up and then they began to howl and I found them to be a drove of wolves. There was a stream of water between them and us, and they would wade in a piece and then go back and howl. I then called the boys to "attention," and fifteen of them took their guns, and I gave the order "fire," and they fired into the drove of wolves, and I never saw such scampering in all my life. They howled and left, and the boys all staid awake the rest of the night.

The morning of the 15th came and they got breakfast and gave me mine, after which we all started across the run and left our things; then I went back and carried a sick man over. I bid the boys good bye and then started on to Brownsville. I had travelled only two miles when I came to a pond of water about two miles long and about knee deep; this we had to wade through; it made me very tired; my limbs appeared as if they were pulling out of the sockets, but I got through and arrived in Brownsville at 12 M. I expected to find a town settled with people and where the true God was worshipped, but to my surprise I could see nothing but little huts made of mud. The natives are very inferior, and dress very strangely. The men wear only a shirt and drawers, and when at work they roll their drawers up to their hips, and also go through the streets in that manner. The women go through the day with nothing on them but a chemise and a thin skirt made of straw, their bosoms open and breasts exposed, and when one looks at them they seem to have no shame. I remained in the town until 2 o'clock and then put off for headquarters, which were two miles to the right of Brownsville. I reached there at 4 P.M. and all were glad to see me. I found Col. Sadrick without a tent and laying on the ground; I got the men and had him a tent put up that night, and I laid down out of doors. The ground was covered with lizards, frogs, and what is called the horned toad, which has horns like a goat, and a wreath of beads around its body; they look bold and courageous. These reptiles were numerous, with details of musquitoes like swarms of bees. The morning of the 4th inst. found me quite sick, so much so that I had to call in a doctor. He examined me and said I was ruptured from the strain of walking. I began to decline until I was unable to get about, and I almost gave up in despair when I looked at my condition, five thousand miles from home and among strangers without a friend. My best friend, Jordan Jones, of Co. K, was left behind. The company to which I belonged was at Brazos, and I was left to the mercy of God and strangers. In the midst of my illness I had a kind physician, Dr. Perry, of the 11th U.S. colored regiment. He treated me kindly and gave me the best of attention. I remained at my quarters until the 15th inst. and then my regiment came up to Brownsville. The men were very much fatigued, Captain Clark being an officer with very little feeling for a colored man, marched them through in one day. Mr. Frank Walker died on account of the hard march and great heat. Many more were sick and were obliged to be sent to the hospital. Col. Wooster being a man of feeling, and one that looked to the interest of the regiment and the welfare of the men, put Capt. Clark under arrest and kept him there until the Col. resigned; but three days after the Col. left he again took command of the company. I remained sick at my quarters until August the 18th, when I was recommended to the War Department for my discharge by Dr. Perry. Col. Sadrick had an ambulance brought and I started to be mustered out, but when I got to Brownsville I was so near dead that I was compelled to go to the general hospital. This hospital was kept under the direction of Dr. Major Stevens from Philadelphia, and belonged to the 29th colored regiment. The doctor treated me with the utmost kindness and gave me the best of attention. At this post I witnessed the most brutal treatment (not to me but to others.) There were seven hundred sick in this hospital, four hundred of that number in the ward with me.

The hospital stewards and nurses were men with no human feeling. The poor sick were dying ten per day, and before they were cold the hospital stewards would search them, and take any thing valuable that they found about them before they reported them dead. On one occasion there was a small boy, who had waited on some officer, that was quite sick, and one morning he was quite fretful. One of the ward masters went to him and struck him with a strap three blows, then took him up and made him walk to the door leading to the street, and brought him back again and laid him down, and in one hour he was dead, and the spirit had flown to the God that gave it. It would be impossible for me to tell the many instances of cruelty perpetrated on the poor sick soldiers by the hands of these colored stewards. They acted more like demons than human beings. The fare was also very bad; we had two pieces of bread and a pint of coffee per day; this we were compelled to put up with. I remained at this hospital two weeks and then asked the doctor to let me go to my quarters, which he granted, and I took the ambulance and again returned to the 25th headquarters. I remained there until a general order came that all detached men unable for duty should report to their regiments and be sent to the hospital. Therefore I went to my regiment, and to my regret when I got there my best friend, Col. W.B. Wooster had resigned and started home. I went and reported to Adjutant J. Spaulding and he directed me to my company, where I went and reported to my orderly, J. Spencer, of Co. D. He gave me my quarters and I stayed there one week and then was put on detail to go to New Orleans; I got ready and we went to Brownsville, and the order was countermanded, and we returned to camp the next morning. There I was again detailed at the headquarters of the corps, where I stayed until the 20th of September, and then I had some words with one of the General's waiters, and I would not stay any longer and again went to my regiment, where I was at the time of writing this sketch.

At this period of my stay in Texas joy began to spring up. We had just received news that the 29th regiment was ordered home. The men began to have the home-fever and it became general. Every day the men in camp had appointed to be mustered out of the U.S. service, but without avail. At last the happy day arrived and all hearts were glad. On the 14th day of October, 1865, at nine A.M., Co. K was mustered out; Captain Thorpe was in command of Co. K at this time. Then came Companies C, E, and D to which latter I belonged; H, G, F, B, and so on until the last company was mustered out. The occasion was one of note. Every man was orderly and sober. All were eagerly waiting the order to strike tents for home, for that was the theme of every one's thoughts. We now hoped to leave Texas for home and trusted in God for our safe arrival.

October 15th, the 29th regiment left camp Sadrick, Texas, for Brownsville, on their way home and were escorted through Brownsville by the 9th U.S. regiment, Col. Bailey in command. We marched to an open field where the battalion was halted by Col. Torance, and the officers and men of the 9th U.S. regiment took leave of the 29th. It was an impressive scene. The 9th and 29th had shared the greatest dangers together, and fought side by side, and now they were parting. We shook hands and they bid us God speed. The headquarter band, Gen. Smith's, escorted us through Brownsville. The line of march was taken up again at 10 A.M. The band played "And beneath the starry flag we shall breathe the air again," until the footsteps of the 29th were lost in profound silence. The 43d U.S. left the same day. The day passed off pleasantly, although the roads were bad and ofttimes the men were compelled to wade in water and mud waist deep, the thoughts of going home made the march seem easier than any other we had been in. No one can experience the feelings of a returning soldier but one that has been a soldier. I was left sick at Brownsville, unable to march when the 29th left, consequently I went on the boat down the Rio Grande with the sick. Wednesday the 15th, we left Brownsville. After sailing down the Rio Grande, night overtaking us, we were compelled to land on the Mexican side and stay all night. It stormed all night and we spent a disagreeable time.

The next morning, the 17th, we passed Clarksville on the Mexican side, and landed at Brazos, and camped on the sand all night; the air was clear and cool. We had a rough time coming from Clarksville to Brazos outside, and came near being lost, but we landed safely at 4 P.M. The 20th was clear and cold—the 22d U.S. troops left Brazos on a transport for New Orleans. The 21st was pleasant. The 22d found us still waiting for transportation. At this point I had a chance to see all of our sick, numbering forty-eight. I was called at 2 o'clock to go and see Chancey Douglas of Co. C, 29th regiment. He was very sick, but I gave him good counsel and he got better and was able to come along at 12 M. when we embarked on board the transport Alabama, and at 4 P.M. we weighed anchor, bound for New Orleans. The 24th, the gulf was so rough that we could not sail, and were compelled to anchor on account of the gale. We weighed anchor again at 8 A.M. on the morning of the 25th, bound for Galveston, Texas, where we arrived at 12 M. We found Galveston a splendid city, four hundred and fifty miles from New Orleans. Here we took in wood and coal, and in the evening visited the city and the churches there. One of the soldiers of Co. H died, by the name of Davis; how true that "In the midst of life we are in death." Dr. Hyde deserves great credit for the consideration he showed. He got a nice plain coffin, the only one I had seen for four months for a colored soldier. The night of the 20th we were in a dreadful gale off Cape Horn, so much so that the pilot was compelled to lay by all night in the harbor. It was the most severe storm I ever witnessed. We put out to sea in the morning but were compelled to turn back. The soldiers were quite unruly while we lay at Galveston, so much so that Col. Torance was compelled to have the transport hauled off from the wharf, and some of the men were left ashore that went off without leave. The 26th we started again for New Orleans, but we were compelled to come back and lay in the harbor; we came near being lost, but God was with us. The 27th we again started, bound for New Orleans, where we arrived on the 28th inst. at 7 A.M. We had a hard time and often thought it was our last, but the good Lord was with us. We went off the transport Alabama the same day we arrived, and marched to the south side of the city and encamped on an open lot, and put up our shelters the best we could and laid on the ground. The night was cold and chilly; we suffered a great deal and many took sick.