A Sketch of the 29th Regiment of Connecticut Colored Troops

by Isaac J. Hill

Sabbath morning, the 19th inst., was beautiful and clear with a good breeze, and the sailors put out all sail, and to the joy of both officers and men, we were able to see the land of Newfoundland coast. We passed Gibraltar light house at the inlet, at 9 o'clock on the morning of the 19th inst. Amidst the pleasant scenery of the voyage, my thoughts ofttimes turned to my beloved family and friends at home, separated from me by the great waters rolling between. The 20th inst., it was still clear and calm, and found us sailing off the coast of Florida Reefs.

We passed the 29th regiment, which was on board the transport Blackstone that had been disabled and was laying at anchor, but when we came alongside, they got up steam and followed us, and on the morning of the 21st, she was close in sight. We saw a great many small sail boats. The 22d found us off the coast of Alabama, and in the evening we were out of sight of land. Notwithstanding we had been at sea only seven days, we began to be anxious to get on land, which we expected to gain in two days more. On the 23d the men began to get restless, and complained bitterly when the water gave out and we had to drink condensed water. Those being accustomed to sea-sickness were generally well up to this date; there were only 10 sick out of 750 men and 25 officers.

The officers generally amused themselves by fishing, and they caught some of the largest kind. The 25th found us still on the De Molay, out of sight of land. The officers spent quite a time on board the De Molay, the night of the 25th. Thinking it to be the last night they gave vent to their feelings, and kept up until 3 A.M. They would not sleep, and would not let any one on board sleep. The chaplain of the 9th U.S. endeavored to get them to stop, but they went on more vigorous, seeming to be gratified that they found some one they could annoy. They went on until they finally fell asleep. The morning of the 26th found us in Mobile Bay in sight of Fort Warren. There were a great many transports laying in the harbor.

We were glad to see land. Fort Gaines lay at our right and Fort Morgan at our left. After we passed these forts we turned and anchored at 10 A.M. The scenery around the Fortress was beautiful. The gun boats lay in the stream in great numbers. We hoped to gain camp here at Mobile, but at 12 M. our hopes were blasted by an order from Colonel Sadrick to go to New Orleans. We hoped to gain that place in two days sail. We passed the light-house on the right and the scenery was most delightful; we frequently saw groups of small trees growing by the edge of the water. We glided down the stream and soon found ourselves wrapt in the shades of night, which was beautiful to behold, and like nature we were soon wrapt in the arms of sleep, and all cares of the world were over.

The morning of the 27th found us generally well and in good spirits. We were out of sight of land. The day was beautiful. Nothing of interest occurred, but the usual sport of fishing by the officers. At 6 P.M. we hove in sight of land and entered the channel leading up to New Orleans. At 8 P.M. we anchored for the night. The morning of the 28th was beautiful and clear. We passed a great many small vessels and at 9 A.M. came in sight of Fort Jackson and Fort Phillips. When a signal was fired from the fort we had to come to until we were boarded by an officer from the fort, who informed Col. Sadrick that the 2d division could not go to New Orleans, neither could any of the officers or men be permitted to go without a general order from General Grant. This was quite a shock, as the officers and men had greatly anticipated spending some time in New Orleans. The officers permitted us to go up to the fort, but not to disembark without orders. There we were compelled to lay on board until the Colonel could telegraph to Washington to General Grant. We had run out of coal, wood and oil, and the transport Blackstone was disabled, on which was the 29th colored regiment, and could not go any farther.

Fort Jackson is a large construction, mounting seventy guns of the largest calibre. The ravine round the fort is two miles long and very strongly fortified. At this fort were a great many alligators, and we went on shore and amused ourselves by catching them until prevented by the guard around the fort. Fort Phillips lies opposite Fort Jackson on the right of the Mississippi, and is the place where the rebels committed the great outrage on the colored soldiers. It is a large fort mounting sixty large guns and the small ones I did not number, but there were a great many of them. The 10th U.S. heavy artillery was guarding these forts and looked well. I could not help thinking of the cruelty that had been done to the poor colored soldiers here at this spot; although a month had passed it was fresh to me.

At 6 o'clock on the evening of the 29th the despatch came from General Grant to Col. Sadrick to take the Blackstone and go to New Orleans and get her repaired, and get coal and oil. Nothing but the staff officers were allowed to go along. This caused some dissatisfaction, but they had to submit. The 29th was landed at Fort Phillips, and on Saturday the 30th inst. with Col. W.B. Wooster of the 29th, Lieut. Col. Torance, Adjutant Spalding and lady, Lieut. Leonard and lady, Capt. Griswell and lady, Lieut. M.D. Lee, and a few more of the 29th officers, we proceeded up the Mississippi towards New Orleans. There were but three colored men allowed to go; these belonged to Colonel Sadrick's headquarters, and I was one of the lucky men. The day passed very pleasantly—Col. W.B. Wooster having his string band on board; in the evening the officers got up a dance, and amused themselves until a late hour, when we laid down to sleep, resting securely in the arms of hope. The morning of the 31st at six o'clock, found us at the wharf in New Orleans. I proceeded with Col. Sadrick and staff to the St. Charles hotel, where they took rooms. This was one of the largest and best hotels in the city, and a great many officers stopped there. I was much pleased with the hotel, but it being Sabbath I left and started to find the house of God; that was the disposition of my mind. Very much to my surprise when going up Congress st. I met a colored friend, and I asked him if he could tell me where the minister of the A.M. E. Church stopped. He pointed to a door and said "In there." I went in and to my surprise and joy found Rev. William A. Dove, one of my old friends. He treated me very kindly, and I took a seat and we had a chat over old things, while he was getting ready for church. I told him I wanted a place to board, and up to this time I had no breakfast. He took me to sister Vance's and introduced me; she made me welcome and got me a good breakfast; I found her to be much of a lady. I went to church and found Rev. Mr. Dove on the stand and was much pleased with his discourse from the passage of scripture, "But having faith we can withstand the wiles of the Devil:" he did justice to the subject. In the afternoon I went to the same church at 4 o'clock to hear one of the natives of New Orleans; his text was in Numbers, "If God be God, serve him; if Baal, serve him." He did well. The appointment was then given out for me to preach in the evening at 7 o'clock. I went according to appointment and found the house crowded to excess with all classes, both white and colored, very eager to hear the soldier. I took my text in Isaiah, 3d chap. 10th verse, "Say ye to the righteous that it shall be well with him." We had a good time; surely the Lord was with us and blessed us, and I felt the power of my station. When we adjourned I went to my lodging place at Mrs. Vance's.

On Monday, the 1st of July, I was visited by some old friends from Philadelphia—Dr. Rock, Prof. Seymore, Prof. Murray and the chorister. We all met at Capt. Ingram's and spent some time together. I was glad to meet them and they to meet me. We parted and met again at 3 P.M. at dinner and spent a good time. After dinner I went out to visit the city and made several very pleasant calls.

Tuesday, the 2d, I again met my friends at Mrs. Vance's, and spent a part of the day. I often went to the St. Charles hotel to see my officers; and Wednesday, the 3d, the Colonel informed me that we should leave the next morning. Accordingly the next morning, 4th of July, we went on board the Blackstone. The only demonstration made in honor of the great national day was the firing of cannons on the gun boats. At 8 o'clock we were stemming the rapid tide down the Mississippi. When we were six miles from New Orleans the transport took fire and caused great confusion among both passengers and crew. The little life boats were lowered and all the ladies got into them but Mrs. Torance, and she stood on the deck to watch the result. When the word was given that the fire was out, and when the confusion was over we got up steam and went on our way rejoicing. We arrived at Fort Phillips at 5 P.M., got the balance of the 29th regiment, and then went to the De Molay, laying at the mouth of the inlet which we reached at 8 P.M., and went on board. We waited until the morning of the 5th inst. and then got up steam and started for Brazos Santiago, Texas. The gulf was very rough, and I was taken sick soon after we started. The 6th inst. found me still sick. The 7th we reached Brazos and disembarked, and the moment I got on shore I was better. Brazos has a miserable sandy beach. At that time the headquarters of the 25th corps were standing in water knee deep. We remained at this post two days. It was the most miserable place I ever saw. Here our suffering just commenced. The colored troops were landing hourly almost famished for the want of water, and it was cruel no water was provided but condensed water, and but little of that. The poor soldiers suffered greatly, for the means of making condensed water were so limited that not more than 5,000 could be applied at one time, and there were more than 10,000 soldiers there, and for what we did have we paid ten cents per canteen. The troops were kept on forage during their two days stay at this point. The 8th inst. I went to the landing and the Mexicans had got a boat and brought barrels of water out of the Rio Grande, and the Provost Marshal had given them a guard of colored men to sell the water to the soldiers for ten cents a canteen. Col. Sadrick became indignant at the situation of his command and the fare they had to put up with, and went to the commanding General, Weitzel, and asked permission to move his troops from Brazos, which was granted, and in the evening of the 8th inst. we took up our line of march for White Rench on the Rio Grande, a distance of ten miles, where we arrived at 1 A.M. We had a hard march through mud up to our knees, and water in some place four feet deep and a mile long. When we arrived at White Rench the poor soldiers were almost famished for the want of water, and they rushed on to the bank, it gave way, and seven of the third division were drowned. The Rio Grande is noted for the rapidity of its waters and is always muddy. We soon went to sleep and in the morning I arose early, and the first object that attracted my attention was a drowned man floating down the stream. When the sun rose I took a look over the country and not a tree was to be seen as far as the eye could behold, and in fact we had not seen a single one in our ten miles march from Brazos to White Rench. We remained in camp the 9th inst. until 5 P.M. when the order was given to the 2d division to get ready to move to Brownsville, twenty-eight miles distant. At this time the sore trial began with both officers and men, about their knapsacks and baggage; not a horse could be furnished to the commanders or wagons either, except one to each regiment. When the brigade was ready to move, Col. Sadrick came up to me and said, "Hill, you had better stay here with my things a few days as the roads are bad and very muddy: I will leave Lieut. Hamilton with you, and you can come up on the boat." Being somewhat fatigued I was glad to comply.