Korea and her neighbors / A narrative of travel, with an account of the recent vicissitudes and present position of the country

by Isabella L. Bird

I beg to express my sincere thanks for your despatch and the information it conveys. I would observe, however, that as my Government has not joined in concluding these two Agreements, its freedom of action as an independent Power cannot be restricted by their provisions.—I have, etc.,

(Signed) Ye Wanyong,
Minister of State for Foreign Affairs.
H.E. Mr. Kato,
Minister of Japan, etc.

INDEX

• Abbot, a refined, [84].
• Absolutism of the Korean crown reimposed, [377].
• Agricultural implements, rude and few, [161].
• Agriculture, primitive character of, [78];
• improved methods in the Han Valley, [100];
• methods of, [160];
• ministry of, [383].
• Ah Wong, [31].
• Allen, Mr. Clement, [185];
• Dr., [352], [353], [354], [443].
• Altar-piece, an unique, [148].
• American Missions, [22], [63], [172], [279], [311], [346-350], [388].
• Am-nok River, the, [14], [17], [74].
• Amur Province, the, [234], [242].
• Amur River, the, [219], [220], [233], [241], [242], [244].
• An-byöng, [163].
• Ancestral temple, an, [87];
• worship, [61], [63], [88], [401].
• An-chin-Miriok, [345].
• Ang-paks, [77], [125], [157].
• Animal and Bird life, [73], [74], [150].
• An Ju, [328].
• An-kil Yung Pass, crossing the, [330].
• An-mun-chai, the, [138], [141], [144], [146].
• An object of curiosity, [88], [94], [97], [127], [146].
• Appenzeller, Rev. H. G., [388].
• A-ra-rüng style of music, [166].
• Archipelago, a remarkable, [15].
• Army, [56], [57], [210];
• standing, an extravagance, [434].
• A-san, [206];
• battle of, [207].
• Assassination of the Queen, [271], [455].
• Assembly, a national, [373].
• Atai-jo, king, [169].
• Australian ladies, mission work by, [28].
• Baikal horses, [237].
• Banks and Banking, [26].
• “Bannermen,” (irregular soldiery) of Manchuria, [190], [191].
• Barter, the mode of exchange, [78].
• Bas-reliefs, [84].
• Beacon fires, [97], [105].
• Beheading abolished, [265].
• “Believing Mind, Temple of the,” [139].
• Bell of Song-do, [295];
• of Seoul, the great (see Seoul).
• Birukoff, Mr., [388].
• Botany, Native, [17], [95], [98].
• Bows and arrows, reliance on in Manchuria, [190].
• Bridges, infamous character of the, [171];
• precarious, [293].
• Brigands of Manchuria, [189].
• British political influence and trade, [457].
• Broughton Bay, junk excursion in, [15], [173].
• Brown, Mr. M’Leavy, [37], [369], [397], [435], [448], [457].
• Buddha, statues of, [136], [144].
• Buddha worship, [137].
• Buddhism, disestablishment of, [61];
• moribund, [142];
• introduction of, [148];
• palmy days of Korean, [169];
• gross superstitions of, [399];
• relics of Korean, [286].
• Buddhist hells, representations of, [139];
• nunneries, [115], [135].
• Buddhistic legends, [145].
• Buddhist monastery and temple, [63], [76], [79], [84], [319].
• Bull, Korean, as a beast of burden, [36], [110];
• used for ploughing, [162].
• Burial customs, [63], [204], [286], [288-291].
• Burial places, [36], [61].
• Butchers, methods of, [172].
• Cabinet, the, [371], [374], [375];
• ministers, execution of, [367].
• Campbell, Mr., [133], [135], [138], [326].
• Carles, Consul, [130], [329], [355].
• Cavalry, Chinese, General Tso’s brigade, [210].
• Cave, a remarkable, [99].
• Cham-su-ki, [95], [96];
• tree, [96].
• Chang-an Sa, [137], [141], [142], [143], [144], [150], [160].
• Charms, [408].
• Cha-san, [322], [344].
• Che-chön, [106].
• Chefoo, arrival at, [185];
• return to, [213].
• Chemulpo, [20], [30], [33];
• war excitement at, [178];
• exodus of Chinese from, [182];
• return of authoress to, [245];
• accident on the way to, [267];
• arrival at, [357];
• railroad from to the capital, [450];
• leave from, [459];
• banks at, [32], [436];
• cemetery at, [318];
• Chinese settlement in, [31], [245];
• Japanese settlement in, [31], [181], [246];
• Korean quarter, [33];
• occupation of, by Japanese, [206], [245];
• population of, [469];
• trade in, [33].
• Children, non-burial of in Manchuria, [204];
• sale of dæmons, [412].
• Chil-sung Mon, the, [315], [316].
• China, diplomatic relations with Korea, [19], [182].
• Chinese in Korea, [12], [20], [182];
• predominant influence of, [22], [452];
• their settlement in Chemulpo, [31];
• the colony at Seoul, [44];
• consternation in Chinese colony, [182];
• connection with Korea severed, [458].
• Chinese Manchuria, [237], [244].
• Chin-nam-po, [19], [357], [458].
• Chino-Japanese War, origin of the, [206].
• Chöi Sok dæmon, [420].
• Chol-muri Kaut, the, [411].
• Chŏl-yong-To, [23].
• Chong-dong, [427], [437].
• Chöng-phöng, town of, [90], [93], [94];
• female curiosity at, [94].
• Chong-söp (abbots), [141].
• Chon-shin dæmons, [418].
• Chön-yaing, [88].
• Chosen Magazine, The, [440].
• Cho Wang dæmon, [420].
• Christianity, progress of, [201], [202].
• Christian missions (see Missionaries and the Missions).
• Christians, native, [65], [227].
• Christian work in Seoul, [63];
• in Korea, [65];
• Korean estimate of, [438].
• Christie, Dr., [198], [201], [202], [211].
• Chu-la, [25], [306].
• Chun-chön, [109].
• Chung-Chong-Do, [75], [84].
• Chyu-pha Pass, the, [129].
• Class privileges, [101], [446], [450].
• Climate, healthy character of, [16];
• at Mukden, [201].
• Coasts, character of, [15];
• tour along, [150].
• Coinage of, [20], [66], [398].
• Concubinage, a recognized institution, [342].
• Confucian college, the, [382];
• temples, [76], [83], [94], [103].
• Confucianism in Korea, [21], [22].
• Conjugal fidelity, [116], [341], [343].
• Conspiracies, frequency of, [447].
• Constitutional changes, [371-386].
• Conventions with China, renunciation of the, [207].
• Cookery of the Koreans, [154].
• Corfe, Bishop, [33], [37], [49], [63], [64], [66], [68].
• Corfe Mission at Seoul, [30], [33], [64], [68].
• Corruption, [431], [448].
• Cossacks, Russian, rigid discipline of, [238].
• Costumes, [26], [27], [45], [46].
• Council of State, formation of a, [370], [375].
• Council of State (Korean), organization of, [375].
• Court functionaries, [428], [430].
• Crown Prince, the, [253], [273], [362], [365], [428];
• Princess, the, [273].
• Customs, Korean, [59], [78], [101], [114], [127], [265], [266], [287], [359].
• Customs revenue the backbone of Korean finance, [458].
• Curzon, the Hon. G. W., [138].
• Dæmon festivals, [410].
• Dæmons, classification of, [421].
• Dæmon Worship, [79];
• fear of dæmons, [127], [129];
• dæmonism, [399], [404], [409], [417].
• Dallet’s Histoire de l’Église de Korée, [11];
• quoted in regard to the position of women, [341], [355].
• Dancing women, [344], [352].
• Death, customs connected with, [63].
• Deluge, a Manchurian, [193].
• Diamond Mountain Monasteries, [133].
• Diamond Mountain, the, [74], [75], [103], [129], [133], [140].
• Disciples, Five Hundred, Temple to, [170].
• Distinctions between Patrician and Plebeian abolished, [385].
• Divination, [407], [408].
• Dog-infested Seoul, [47].
• Dog meat, use of, [154].
• Dogs, [47], [72].
• Dolmens, [131].
• Domestic animals, few, [161];
• life unknown, [355];
• slaves, [47].
• Domiciliary visit, [304].
• Dragon dæmons, [417].
• Drunkenness common, [91].
• Dwellings, [77].
• Dye, General, American military adviser, [271], [272], [277], [279].
• Dynasty, Korean, worn out, [255].
• Eastern Siberia, maritime provinces of, [242-244].
• Eastern Siberian, drift of population to, [244].
• Edgar, H. M. S., [302].
• Edicts. See Royal.
• Education, [143], [203], [387], [438];
• the ministry of, [382], [391].
• Education and Foreign Trade, [387].
• Education in the hamlets, [79].
• “Eight Views,” the, [155].
• Elm trees, fine, [93].
• English mission, the first, [63].
• English-speaking Koreans at Seoul, [49].
• Eternal Rest, Temple of, [134].
• Eui-chyeng Pu (the cabinet), [371], [377].
• Europeans, Korean estimate of, [438].
• Examinations for official position, [152];
• royal exams, abolished, [388].
• Exorcists and Exorcism, [114], [344], [350], [400], [405], [423].
• Exports and Imports, [392];
• returns of, [466], [467].
• Extortions and tyrannies, [450].
• Falconry, [74].
• Farmers, [447], [450].
• Fauna of, [16].
• Fengtien Cavalry Brigade, [210].
• Ferguson & Co., Messrs., [185].
• Fermented liquors, [91], [92].
• Ferries, [104].
• Ferry boat, an ingenious, [131].
• Festivals, [410-413].
• Fetishes, [416], [421].
• Fever, attack of, [193].
• Finance, [396].
• Fire Dragon Pool, the, [145].
• Fish and Fishing, [158].
• “Five Hundred Disciples,” temple of the, [170].
• Floods in Manchuria, [193].
• Flora of, [17].
• Forced labor, [337].
• Foreign Goods, trade in, [24], [387], [391], [395], [464].
• Foreign liquors, love of, [91];
• Office, the, [381].
• Forest wealth, [17].
• Formosa, transfer of, [269].
• Fortress, an ancient, [105].
• “Four Sages,” Hall of the, [136].
• Fox, Mr., [37], [39].
• French clocks, rage for at Yö Ju, [90], [91].
• Frescoes, curious, [60], [319].
• Friendly character of people, [80].
• “Frog-boxes,” [408].
• Funerals, observances at, [62], [286].
• Fusan, [20], [23], [24], [25];
• its Japanese character, [26];
• markets of, [28];
• Europeans in, [178];
• Japanese soldiers in, [245], [454];
• population of, [469].
• Gale, Mr., [167], [173];
• Mrs., [173].
• Game, [174].
• Gap Pass, the, [36], [181].
• Gardner, Mr. (acting consul), [35], [183];
• Mrs. and Miss, [37].
• Gautama, a shrine of, [137].
• Geographical position determines Korea’s political relationships, [452].
• Geology and the geological formation, [15].
• Gesang, The, (singing and dancing girls) of Phyöng-yang, [352], [353].
• Ginseng, “the elixir of life,” [296];
• extent of its cultivation, [297];
• preparation for market, [298].
• Girl-babies, not specially welcome in a family, [300], [341].
• Girls, seclusion of, [119].
• Godobin, Fort, [214].
• God of War, temple to the, [319].
• Gold-digging, [108], [322], [324].
• Gold dust exports, [108].
• “Golden Sand,” the river of, [80].
• Gold ornaments, [108].
• Gorge, a grand, [95].
• Government departments (Korean) reorganized, [381].
• Government Gazette, the, [373], [374], [377].
• “Government Hospital,” the, [64].
• “Great Fifteenth Day,” the, [266].
• Greathouse, General, [76].
• Greathouse, Mr., [441].
• Greek Church in Siberia, [229];
• its Litany, [231].
• Ha-chin, its ugly women, [97].
• Ha Ch’i style of music, [166].
• Ha-in class, the, [448].
• Hair-cropping edict, [359], [363].
• “Halfway Place,” the, [91].
• “Hall of the Four Sages,” [136].
• Ham-gyöng Do, [219], [223], [233].
• Ham-gyöng Province, [156], [163].
• Hanka Lake, [242], [244].
• Han Kang, village of, [68], [70], [76].
• Han River, [35], [36], [40], [68], [71], [74], [75], [77], [80], [85], [92], [99], [103], [106], [110];
• a cheap and convenient highway, [111];
• descent of the, [105];
• fauna and flora of, [71], [72], [98];
• rapids of, [75], [92], [93], [101], [102], [105], [110], [111];
• scenery around the, [71].
• Han valley, inhabitants of the, [76], [78-79];
• cultivation of the, [100];
• limestone cliffs of the, [104];
• schools in the, [79];
• temperature of the, [81].
• Harbors of Fusan and Wön-San, [14], [30].
• Hart, Sir Robert, [213].
• Hats, monstrous, [345].
• Heidemann, Mr., [223], [228], [231].
• Hemp cultivation, [95].
• Hermit City, the, [37].
• “Hermit Nation,” the, opened by the treaties of 1883, [11].
• Hillier, Mr., [183], [246], [251], [259], [269], [281], [283].
• Hills, denudation of, [17].
• “Hill Towns,” the, [308].
• Hiroshima, trial of assassins at, [277].
• Hoa-chung, [151], [152].
• Hoang-chyöng San, [153].
• Home Office, the, [381].
• Homesteads of the Han Valley, [79].
• Hong, Colonel, [271], [272], [274].
• Hon-jö, [293].
• Ho pai, or divining table, the, [408].
• Hospitals supported and conducted by the Missions, [33].
• Household spirits, [418].
• Hulbert, Rev. H. B., [164], [165], [166], [391].
• Hu-nan Chang, [94].
• Hun-chun, [228], [230], [237];
• Chinese at, [237], [238].
• Hun-ho river, the, [199].
• Hunt, Mr., [25], [458].
• Hwang-hai Do, [16].
• Hwang-hai Province, [303].
• Hyön, Colonel, [272].
• Idleness of the nobles at Seoul, [46]
• Im, accident to my servant, [331].
• Images, stone, [170], [171].
• Im-jin, [292].
• Im-jin Gang, the, [292].
• Immorality, [341].
• Import trade, value of, [393].
• Incantations, [425].
• Independence Arch, the, [439].
• Independence of Korea assured by the Japanese, [247];
• opposed by the native officials, [262].
• Independence, proclamation of, [247].
• Independent newspaper, the, [439], [440].
• Industries, [26].
• Inns, regular and irregular, [124], [125], [157], [294], [326].
• Inouye, Count, [247], [251], [261], [262], [268], [270], [274], [280].
• Inscription, an amusing, [101].
• Interior of the country, efforts to reach, [49], [66].
• Interrupted Shadow, Island of the, [23].
• Inundation in Manchuria, [195].
• Isolation maintained up to 1876, [19].
• Itai, the innkeeper, [31], [245].
• Itinerary of travel, [357], [358].
• Jaisohn, Dr., [129], [389], [439].
• Japanese, designs of in Korea, [181], [206];
• lacking in tact, [263], [453];
• in Korea, [26];
• their settlement in Chemulpo, [31];
• hatred of the Koreans towards, [31], [344];
• shipping and commerce of, [32];
• control rice trade of Chemulpo, [32];
• the Legation and colony at Seoul, [43];
• Japs in Wön-San, [176];
• prestige, a blow to, [278].
• Japan, last glimpse of, [23];
• sea of, [14], [30], [74], [103], [145], [149];
• outwits China in Korea, [182].
• Jones, Mr. Heber, [341], [400], [415], [418].
• “Judgment, Temple of,” [139].
• Junks, Korean, [174].
• Justice, the Ministry of, [383].
• Ka-chang, [322], [323].
• Kai Chhön, [355].
• Kai-Söng (Song-do), [293].
• Kal-rön-gi, [150].
• Kang-ge Mountains, [297].
• Kang, the, [197], [204].
• Kang-wön Do, the, [14].
• Kang-wön Province, [156].
• Kanjo Shimbo newspaper, the, [440].
• Ka-phyöng, [109], [112].
• Keum-Kang San Mountains, the, [107], [129], [133], [140], [141], [146], [149], [150];
• Monasteries of, [134], [141].
• Keum-San Gang river, [129].
• Keum-San goldfields, [323], [355].
• Khabaroffka, [242], [244];
• Korean settlers near, [225], [233].
• Khordadbeh, the Arab, his “Book of Roads and Provinces,” [12].
• Ki-cho, the, [138], [141], [149].
• Ki-jun, [355].
• Kimchi, [89], [153], [154].
• Kim Ok-yun, murderer of, [432].
• Kim, the boatman, [70], [82], [85], [92], [101-102], [107].
• King Li Hsi and the Kur-dong at Seoul, [58];
• audience with, appearance and character of, [252], [253], [256-260], [268], [428];
• practically a prisoner, [362];
• escapes to the Russian Legation, [365], [430];
• issues proclamation respecting hair-cropping, [363];
• power of the, [371], [375], [378].
• King’s oath, the Korean, [249].
• Kings, palace of the, [295].
• Kit-ze introduces the elements of Chinese civilization in the 12th century, [12], [355];
• his tomb and temple, [318], [319].
• Kobe, [175].
• Kol-lip dæmon, [421].
• Ko-mop-so river, the, [323].
• Ko-moun Tari, [310].
• Komura, Mr., [278], [281].
• Kong-Wön Do, [74], [155].
• Kong-Wön, [107].
• Korea, its geographical position, [11], [14];
• the church of, [11];
• opened first by the treaties, [11];
• population, [13];
• rivers, lakes, and harbors, [14];
• volcanoes, [14];
• geology, [15];
• mountains, [15];
• climate, [16];
• fauna, [16];
• forest wealth, [17];
• flora, [17];
• minerals, [17];
• rulers of, [18];
• cabinet ministers, [18];
• army, [19];
• provinces of, [19];
• the revenue and its sources, [19];
• treaties with, [19];
• the coinage, [19], [20];
• treaty ports, [20];
• language, [20], [21];
• religion, [21], [64], [399];
• society, [22];
• neighbors of, [23];
• foreign women in, [28];
• rebellion in Southern, [179];
• Japanese proposals for its administration, [206];
• the King’s oath, [249];
• dynasty of, worn out, [255];
• a dark chapter in its history, [271];
• last words on, [445];
• her resources, [445];
• class privileges in, [101], [446], [450];
• dissatisfaction in, [281];
• farmers in, [447], [450];
• Japanese influence in, [25], [31], [359], [431], [449], [452];
• law, administration of in, [441];
• markets in, [28];
• missionary methods in, [28-30], [64];
• money of, [66], [67], [78];
• provincial government of, [372], [378];
• roads in, [20], [128];
• security in, [295];
• trade in, [24], [32], [304], [307], [391];
• winter in, [36].
• Korean animals, [73];
• bulls, [36], [110], [162];
• customs, [59], [65], [78], [101], [114], [120], [127], [283], [355], [359];
• dogs, [47], [73];
• dwellings, [77];
• education, [142], [387];
• finance, [396];
• graves, [36], [61];
• inns, [124-128];
• nobles and officials, [46];
• pigs, [73], [162], [322];
• ponies, [36], [54], [121], [162];
• roads, [20], [128];
• sheep, [72], [163];
• soldiers, [56], [209];
• streets, [27];
• travellers, [127];
• villages, [77], [162], [225], [234].
• Korean Christian Advocate, and Christian News, the, [440].
• Korean Repository, the, [11], [168], [346], [352], [440].
• Koreans, the, traces of Manchurian conquest on, [12];
• uniformity of their costume, [12];
• physiognomy of, [12];
• a handsome race, [12];
• height of, [13];
• mental calibre of, [13];
• possess Oriental vices, [13];
• seclusion and inferior position of women, [13], [45], [339-343];
• their corruption and brutal methods of punishment, [33];
• squalid character of ordinary Korean life, [52], [330];
• encumbered with debt, [78];
• a drunken people, [92];
• voracity and omnivorous character, [154];
• their music, [164];
• settlers in Siberia, [223];
• attach themselves to the Greek Church, [229];
• under Muscovite government, [233];
• race improved by settlement in Siberia, [236], [336];
• independence of secured by Japanese, [247].
• Kowshing, the transport, [207].
• Ko-yang, [285], [286].
• Krasnoye Celo, [230], [233], [234].
• Ku-mu-nio, [110].
• Kun-ren-tai, the palace guard, [270], [271], [272], [275], [278], [280], [281], [282], [362];
• abolition of the, [386].
• Kuntz and Albers, Messrs., [216], [220], [224], [239].
• Kur-dong, the, a unique but
• now rare ceremonial, [51], [60], [61], [119], [247].
• K’wan, [233].
• Kwan-ja, the, (official passport), [86], [87], [128], [146], [159], [283].
• Kwan-yin, [143];
• image of, [137].
• Kwass, [231].
• Kyei, or associations, [440].
• Kyeng-pok Palace, [251], [256], [365], [369], [433], [437].
• Kyeng-wun Palace, the, [369], [398], [428], [429], [437].
• Kyöng-heung, [227].
• Kyöng-hwi Province, [303].
• Kyöng-kwi Do, [75].
• Kyöng-ku-kyöng, [141], [146].
• Kyöng-sang Province, [25], [30].
• Kyöng-wön Do, [75].
• Lakes, [14].
• Landis, Dr., [400], [415], [421].
• Language of the Koreans, [20], [173].
• Laundresses, [45], [339].
• Lava fields, [16], [131].
• Law, its administration infamous, [441].
• Liau river, the, [186], [193], [199].
• Li Hsi, the King, royal procession of at Seoul, [55];
• in seclusion at outbreak of war, [183].
• Li Hung Chang, [267].
• Lindholm, Mr., [241].
• Lion Stone, the, [145].
• Liquor drinking, [91].
• Litany, a Greek, [231].
• Literary swells, [104], [339].
• Literature, the Temple of, [382].
• Lone Tree Hill, the, [45].
• Long-shin dæmons, [417].
• Lotus dance, the, [352].
• Lucifer matches, [168].
• Lynch law, amateur, [104].
• Macdonald, Sir Claude, [430].
• Ma-cha Töng lake, [156], [158].
• Ma-chai, [85], [106], [111].
• Magistrate, an interview with a, [86].
• Ma-ha-ly-an Sa monastery, [143].
• Mak-pai Pass, the, [150].
• Ma-kyo, [106].
• Mama, or the smallpox dæmon, [413], [414]
• Manchu head-dress, [200];
• soldiers, [208], [210].
• Manchu race, the, [190].
• Manchuria, brigands in, [188];
• Chinese immigrants to, [188];
• Government of, [201];
• immigrations from, [12];
• population of, [187];
• trade of, [189];
• viceroyalty of, [187], [191];
• authoress departs to, [186];
• sojourn at viceroyalty of, [187];
• a deluge in, [193];
• old capital of, [201];
• practice of medicine in, [203];
• less hostile to foreigners, [207];
• visit to Russian, [223].
• Mandarins and their retainers, [329].
• Mang-kun, the, [114], [360].
• Man-pok-Tong, the, [145];
• fear of tigers, [132], [292], [302], [325];
• superstition of, [129].
• Manufactures, [18].
• Ma-pu, [35], [40], [68], [181].
• Mapus, or grooms, [121-132], [164], [284], [285], [293], [302].
• Marble pagoda of Seoul, the, [43].
• Ma-ri Kei, [132].
• Market, a Korean, [28], [306], [307].
• Marriage customs, [114], [342].
• Marriage, early, prohibited, [385].
• Matunin, Mr., [227].
• Meals, [79];
• by the way, [82], [83].
• Medicine, practice of in Manchuria, [203];
• medical missions in Korea, [424].
• Mesozoic and metamorphic rocks. (See Geology.)
• Miller, Mr., a young missionary fellow-traveller, [66], [70], [83], [87], [104], [105], [142], [151], [159].
• Mineral wealth of, [17], [18], [25], [108].
• Missionaries and the Missions, [20], [21], [29], [30], [63], [64], [65], [172], [198], [201], [346], [390];
• statistics of Missions, [462], [463].
• Monarchy, character of the, [18].
• Monasteries, Diamond Mountain, [133].
• Monastery of Sök-Wang Sa, [169].
• Mongolian eye, obliquity of in the Koreans, [12].
• Millet, the use of, [321].
• Min clan, the, [261].
• Ming tombs, the, [201].
• Ministers, execution of, [367];
• of State, duties of, [379].
• “Ministres de Parade,” [201].
• Min Yeng-chyun, [371].
• Miriang, [25].
• Mirioks, [76], [111], [286].
• Miriok Yang Pass, [321].
• Missionary work, [22], [29], [30], [63-65], [172], [201], [207], [227], [346];
• statistics of, [462].
• Mission Hospital, a fine, [202];
• service, a, [350].
• Miura, General Viscount, [269], [270], [275], [277], [453], [455].
• Moffet, Mr., [76], [312], [313], [316], [320], [347].
• Mok-po, [458].
• Mok-po river, [14], [19].
• Money, [66], [78].
• Monks, [133-149];
• ignorant and superstitious, [142].
• Monuments, [294].
• Mou-chin Tai, [328], [336], [338].
• Mounds, used for interment of the living, [175].
• Mountainous character of the country, [15];
• of Seoul, [45].
• Mourning costume, [63].
• Mukden, anti-foreign feeling in, [208], [211];
• cabs of, [199];
• mission hospital, [202];
• pawnshops, [205];
• suicides in, [205];
• system of medicine, [203];
• trade of, [200], [211];
• city of, [192], [199], [200];
• its successful missions, [201], [202], [208].
• Mulberry gardens of Seoul, [43].
• Mulberry palace of Seoul, [45], [247], [416].
• Music, discordant character of the native, [164], [165];
• vocal, [166].
• Murata rifle, the, [209].
• Mu-tang, belief in, [422-426].
• Mu-tang sorcerers, [114], [129], [164], [287], [290], [312], [335], [351], [400], [408];
• as oracles, [412];
• rites of, [413];
• marriage with, [425].
• Myo-kil Sang, the, [145].
• Nagasaki, Chinese town of, [23], [213], [269].
• Nai Kak, the, [377].
• Nak-tong, [64].
• Nak-Tong river, [14], [25].
• Nam Chhon valley and river, [308], [309].
• Nam Han fortress, [83], [84], [105], [181].
• Nam-San, [45], [68], [163], [169];
• fortress, [105].
• Nam San mountains, [39], [43], [45], [68], [97].
• Nang-chön, [106], [110], [112].
• Naniwa, the cruiser, [207].
• National life of Korea exists only at Seoul, [59].
• Newchwang, city of, [175], [186], [187], [191], [192], [212], [355];
• port of, [189].
• Newspapers issued at Seoul, [440].
• Nicolaeffk, [219].
• Night, a hideously memorable, [157].
• Nikolskoye, military station of, [240], [241];
• Korean settlements near, [233].
• “Ninety-nine Turns,” pass of the, [152].
• Nippon Yusen Kaisha, steamers of, [175], [181].
• Nobles, their idleness, [46];
• a privileged class, [101];
• exactions of, [102].
• North branch of the Han, voyage on, [106].
• Northward ho! 320.
• Nowo Kiewsk, Russian military post, [224], [225], [234], [238].
• Nuns, [141].
• O-bang-chang-kun dæmons, [415].
• O’Conor, Lady, [186].
• Officials, superbly dressed, [46], [54];
• resent the new régime inaugurated by the Japanese, [262];
• considered as vampires in Korea, [303], [370], [372];
• memorabilia governing, [379];
• corruption of, [397], [431].
• O-hung-suk Ju, [301].
• Oiesen, Mr., [158], [458].
• Oil paper used as mats, [323].
• Okamoto, Mr., [271], [277].
• Omnivorous Koreans, [154].
• Op Ju dæmon, [420].
• Oracles, [412].
• Orange peel, use of, [92].
• Oricol, [246].
• Osaka, [267].
• Osborne, Mr., [458].
• Oshima, General, [318].
• Otori, Mr., [44], [183], [269], [373], [374], [455].
• Ou-chin-gang, [344].
• Outfit, [67].
• Pagoda, a ruinous, [91].
• Pai Chai College, [388].
• Paik-kui Mi, [102], [113], [114].
• Paik-tu San Mountain, [14], [15], [334].
• Paik-Yang Kang River, The, [130], [131].
• Pai-low, the 439.
• Pa Ju, [285], [292].
• Pa-ka Mi, [101], [102].
• Pak-su Mu, the, [409].
• Pak-Yöng-Ho, the Minister, [247].
• Palace department, the, [385].
• P’al-kyöng, [155].
• Pa-mul dæmon, [420].
• Pangas, [123], [162].
• Pang-wha San, [97].
• Pan-pyöng, [130].
• Pan-su, the, [402], [424].
• Paper manufacture, [306], [323].
• Passenger cart, a Chinese, [197].
• Pawnshops of Mukden, [205].
• “Pea-boats,” [187], [192].
• Peasants’ houses, [77].
• Peasant farmer, the, [78], [305].
• Pechili, Gulf of, [184], [213].
• Pedlars, Korean, [75], [306].
• Peiho river, [186].
• Peking, European exodus from, [213].
• Peking Pass, the, [43], [437], [439].
• Peninsula of Korea, its geographical location, [13].
• People, the, oppressed by taxation, [102].
• Phallic symbols, [111].
• Phyöng-an Do, [321];
• goldfields, [108], [322].
• Phyöng Kang goldfields, [108].
• Phöng-yang, [280], [293], [305], [308], [310], [312-319], [328], [330];
• occupation by the Japanese, [313];
• battle of, [209], [261], [317];
• size of, [356];
• coal mines of, [315];
• dancing and singing girls at, [352];
• first view of, [310];
• Japanese soldiers for, [245], [285];
• mission work at, [346], [350];
• toy shops in, [168].
• Physical appearance and height of the Koreans, [13], [26].
• Physiognomical features of the Koreans, [12].
• Pigs, [73], [162], [322].
• Pirates, attacked by, [212].
• Police, [434], [441].
• Political relationships, [452].
• Pong-san, [304].
• Ponies, [32], [36], [54], [121], [122], [162].
• Pöp-heung, king, [135].
• Population, [13], [76].
• Port Lazareff, [174].
• Port Shestakoff, [174], [219].
• Po-san, [345], [355].
• Posango, [75].
• Possiet Bay, [224], [228], [233].
• Potato cultivation, [229], [333].
• Po-tok-am shrine, [143].
• Potong Mön, [315], [317].
• Potters at work, [85].
• Pottery, native, [307].
• Prefectural towns on the Han, [110], [112].
• Primorsk, [220], [223], [233], [236], [241].
• Princess’ Tomb, the, [62].
• Prisons, Eastern, experience of, [442].
• Procession, a quaint and motley one at Seoul, [56].
• Protestant churches in Seoul, [63], [65].
• Provincial Government, [372], [378].
• Puk-han fortress, [105].
• Puk-han mountains, [39], [247], [284].
• Punishment, brutal character of, among Koreans, [33];
• abolished by the Japanese, [263].
• Purification, the rite of, [411].
• Putiata, Colonel, [433].
• Pyeng-San, [308].
• Pyök-chol, temple of, [84].
• P’yo-un Sa monastery, [138], [139], [143], [144].
• Queen of Korea, audience with, [251];
• description of, [252];
• dress of, [259];
• assassination of, [271], [273], [455];
• removal of the remains of, [369], [428].
• Rainfall, [161], [191].
• Rapids of the Han, [92], [101], [105].
• Rebellion in Southern Korea, [179].
• “Red Door,” distinction of the, [299].
• Reforms in Korea pressed by the Japanese, [257];
• partial acceptance of, [386], [448], [452].
• Religion, no national, [21], [63], [399].
• Religious shrines, [76].
• Reorganized Korean government, [371].
• Revenue, the, and its sources, [19].
• Revolutions, frequency of, [447].
• Rice cultivation, [155], [161].
• Rice trade of Chemulpo in Japanese hands, [32], [33].
• Rice wine partaken to excess, [91], [92].
• Richofen, Baron, his work on China, [12].
• Ride, a long, hot, [156].
• Riong San, [270], [271], [390].
• Ritual of invocation, etc., [411].
• Rivers, lakes and harbors of Korea, [14], [25].
• Roads, bad character of, [20], [123], [128].
• Roman Church and Missions in Seoul, [64], [65].
• Ross, Dr. and Mrs., [198], [202], [211].
• Royal city, a, [292].
• Royal Edict, a fraudulent, [276];
• later edicts, [281], [366], [451].
• Royal examinations, abolition of, [388];
• Library, the, [256].
• Royal tombs of Seoul, [62].
• Royalty, an audience with, [245].
• Rulers of Korea, [18].
• Russian homes, [235];
• administration, [236];
• legation at Seoul, [431].
• Russian intervention, [281];
• Manchuria, [223], [243];
• soldier, the, [218].
• Russia’s “New Empire” and maritime province, [242], [243];
• ascendancy of, [430];
• her gains in Korea, [455];
• her ascendancy lost, [456].
• Russo-Chinese frontier, [230];
• Japanese Treaty, [471];
• Korean frontier, [230];
• Korean settlements, [225], [226], [229];
• hospitality of, [235].
• Ryeng-an Sa, temple, of, [84].
• Sabatin, Mr., [271], [272], [277].
• Saddle, twelve hours in the, [325].
• Sagem dæmons, [416].
• Saghalien, [220].
• Sai-kal-chai, the, [150].
• Sai-nam, gateway at, [308].
• Sajorni, [231].
• Sakyamuni, image of, [136].
• Salt industry, the, [158], [228].
• Sampans, [70], [75].
• Sa-mun, [25].
• San Chin-chöi Sök dæmon, [420].
• Sang-chin, [25].
• Sang-dan San, [294].
• Sang-nang Dang, [129].
• Sanitary regulations, [436].
• San-kak-San mountain, [38].
• San-Shin Ryöng dæmons, [416].
• Saretchje, [229].
• Sar-pang Kori, [123], [126], [129].
• Satow, Sir E., [68].
• Scotch missionaries, [201], [207].
• Scranton, Dr., [350].
• Sea of Japan, [74].
• Seoul-Fusan railway, projected, [25].
• Seoul, port of, [14], [19];
• the capital, [35];
• mode of transit and approach to, [36];
• mean architecture of, [37];
• population and fine situation of, [38];
• beautiful and safe environs of, [39];
• foulness of the intra-mural city, [40];
• later sanitary improvements in, [40];
• the shops and their wares, [41];
• the great civic bronze bell, [41], [42], [51];
• beauty of the ancient Marble Pagoda, [43];
• its hordes of mangy dogs, [47];
• women of, free to take exercise in the streets only after nightfall, [47];
• the Kur-dong festival, [51];
• seat of government and centre of official life, [59];
• graves of the capital, [61];
• royal tombs of, [62];
• the Missions and Protestant Churches, [63];
• authoress’s sojourn in, [246];
• leaves it, [267];
• assassination of the Queen at, [273];
• mission and foreign schools in, [390];
• dæmon festivals at, [411];
• the city in 1897, [427];
• metamorphosis of, [435];
• newspapers of, [439], [440];
• banking facilities in, [20], [32];
• beacon-fire in, [97];
• Board of Rites at, [141];
• burial clubs in, [62];
• Chinese colony in, [44];
• climate of, [16];
• education in, [387], [390];
• environs of, [68];
• first impressions of, [35], [48];
• fortresses of, [84];
• gates of, [39];
• houses of, [40], [436];
• Japanese ascendency in, [247], [261];
• Japanese colony in, [45];
• lava fields near, [16];
• marble pagoda in, [43], [84];
• missionaries in, [64];
• Mulberry Palace, [43];
• New Year’s Day in, [264];
• occupation of, by Japan, [206];
• police of, [434], [441];
• political conditions in, [261], [268];
• Prefecture of, [372];
• sanitary regulations in, [436];
• shops in, [41], [59], [168];
• singing and dancing girls at, [352];
• streets of, [435], [436];
• trade of, [60], [75];
• to Wön-san, road from, [129];
• walls of, [39].
• Settlements, [223], [238].
• Seun-tjeung-pi, or monuments, [294].
• Seven Star Gate, the, [315].
• Shamanism, [21], [63], [401], [402].
• Shamans, [401].
• Shanghai, [175].
• Shan-tung, [188], [220].
• Sheep, [72], [163].
• Shen-si, [188].
• Shestakoff, Port, [174], [218].
• Shimonoseki, treaty of, [269].
• Shin-Chang, or dæmon generals, [415].
• Shipping vessels entering Korean ports, return of, [468].
• Shou-yang-yi, [321].
• Sho-wa Ku, [194], [195].
• Shrines, [77], [129], [133], [149], [333].
• Shur-hung, [303], [415-418].
• Sian-chöng, [322].
• Siao-ho river, [199].
• Siberia, Korean settlers in, [223], [234];
• “cussedness” of Siberian ponies, [232].
• Si-jo style of music, [165].
• Sill, Mr., [269], [281].
• Simpson, Mr. J. Y., [244].
• Sin-gang Kam, [109].
• Sin Ki Sun, [438].
• Sin-kyei Sa monastery, [149].
• Siphun river, [241].
• Siptai-wong, the, or “Ten Judges,” [288].
• “Six Great Roads,” the, [128].
• Slavery abolished, [385].
• Smith, Mr. Charles, [217].
• Social position of women, [338].
• Société des Missions Etrangères, [389].
• So-il, [95].
• Sök-wang Sa monastery, [169], [170].
• Soldier, the Korean, [56], [434];
• the Chinese, [209];
• the Russian, [218].
• Sol-rak San mountain, [100].
• Song-do, visit to the city of, [293].
• Song, examples of native, [166].
• Söng Ju dæmon, [418].
• Söng Whoang Dan altar, [417], [418].
• Sön-tong, [141].
• Sorcerers and geomancers, [403].
• Sorning (sponging) on relations, [446], [447].
• Spanish chestnuts, groves of, [108].
• Spasskoje, [242].
• Spinsterhood, [115].
• Spirits, evil, classified, [421], [422].
• Spirit shrine, a, [129], [133].
• Spirit worship, [22], [63], [95], [96].
• “Star Board,” the, [287].
• St. Peter, Sisters of, [64].
• St. Peter the Great, Gulf of, [220].
• Straw fringes, use of, [299].
• Streets, [27], [435].
• Stripling, Mr. A. B., [441].
• Su-chung Dai, [155].
• Sugimura, Mr., [275], [277].
• Suicide, prevalence of in Mukden, [205].
• Sun-chhön, [338].
• Sungacha river, [244].
• Suruga Maru, the s. s., [269].
• Swallow King’s Rewards, The, [354].
• Swings, [164].
• Sword and Dragon Dance, the, [353].
• Syo-im, [159].
• Tablets, stone, [103].
• Tai-döng river, [14], [17], [108], [308], [310], [314], [315], [322], [324], [327], [330], [335], [338], [344], [355].
• Taiping rebellion, [188].
• Tai-won-Kun, the, [37], [207], [255], [256], [262], [269], [271], [274], [275], [362], [437].
• Taku forts, the, [186].
• Tanning industry, the, [441].
• Tan-pa-Ryöng Pass, the, [132], [133], [134].
• Tan-yang, [75], [90], [94], [97], [98], [106].
• Tao-jol, the, [303].
• Ta-rai, [111].
• Tarantass (Russian vehicle), the, [225], [226], [228].
• Ta-ri-mak, [163], [168].
• Taxation, burden of, [102], [384].
• Tchyu-Chichang Pass, [152].
• Temperature, high, [157], [159], [160], [172], [191], [193];
• low, [204], [246], [302].
• Temple, interior of a, [87].
• Temple of the God of War, [60].
• “Temple of the Ten Judges,” [136].
• Temples, [84], [133], [149], [170], [295], [303].
• “Ten Judges,” the, [288].
• Thong-chhön, [155].
• “Throwing the ball,” [353].
• Tientsin, [175];
• treaty of, [206].
• Tiger-hunters, [73], [127], [150].
• Tigers, Korean and Manchurian, [73];
• the hunting of, [73], [150];
• dread of, [127];
• “tiger on the brain,” [132].
• Ti Ju dæmon, [419], [420].
• Tok Chhön, [323], [325], [327], [328];
• squalor of dwellings at, [329], [333], [345].
• Tol Maru, [302].
• Tomak-na-dali, [85].
• Tombs, [77].
• Tong-haks, the, [29], [80], [177], [180], [181], [206], [264], [370].
• Tong-ku, [131].
• Top knot, the, [359], [360], [361], [362];
• proclamation regarding, [366].
• Tornado, a, [130].
• To-tam, [99], [100], [101].
• To-ti-chi Shin dæmons, [418].
• Toys, [168].
• Trade, [24], [25], [31], [32], [304], [308], [391], [396], [450];
• statistics, [462], [466];
• foreign, extent of, [391], [392], [464].
• Tragedy, a palace, [273].
• Trans-Siberian railroad, [174];
• trip over eastern section of, [239];
• construction of, [244].
• Transition stage, a, in Korean annals, [261].
• Travellers, [127].
• Travelling, arrangements for, [67], [70].
• Treasury department at Seoul, [381];
• cleansing of, [449].
• Treaties with foreign countries, [19], [471], [473].
• Treaty ports, [20], [32], [357], [458];
• population of, [469], [470].
• Treaty powers, the, [207].
• Troops (Chinese) on march, [206].
• Tso, General, [203], [210], [215], [315], [320];
• death of, [316].
• Tsushima, island of, [23].
• Tu-men river, [14], [17], [223], [228], [230], [231], [233], [242].
• “Twelve Thousand Peaks,” beauty of the, [138].
• Tyzen Ho river, [233].
• Underwood, Mrs., [251], [252], [254], [279].
• Un-san, [322].
• Unterberger, General, [217].
• Upper classes, inactivity of, [446].
• Ur-röp-so, [108].
• Ussuri, [239], [240].
• Ussuri railway, [239], [240].
• Ut-Kiri, [107], [110].
• Vermin, protection against, [292].
• Vernacular schools, Government, [388].
• Victoria, Queen, referred to by Queen of Korea, [259].
• Victory, cost of, [267].
• Villages, [77], [162], [225], [226], [229], [234];
• dirty and squalid, [130].
• Village system, the, [383];
• council of, [384].
• Vladivostok (See Wladivostok).
• Vocal music, native, [166].
• Volcanic action, signs of, [14], [16].
• “Volunteer Fleet,” the Russian, [218], [239].
• Voracity of the Koreans, [154].
• Voyage up the Han, A, [82];
• its drawbacks, [105].
• Waeber, Mr., [183], [368], [431];
• Mme., [280].
• “Walking the Bridges,” custom of, [266].
• War, impending, [177].
• War declared, [208], [454];
• disarranges ocean transit, [213];
• enthusiasm for, [214];
• reforms induced by, [268].
• Warner, Mr., [68].
• War Office, [382].
• Waters, Colonel, [244].
• Wei-hai-wei, fall of, [267].
• Wei-man, [355].
• Western China, visit to, [282], [284];
• equipment for, [284].
• Whang Hai coast, the, [357].
• Whang Ju, [308-310].
• “White-headed Mountain,” [14].
• Widows, remarriage of, [291], [385].
• Wife, the duty of a, [118].
• Wildfowl, [174].
• Wilkinson, Mr., [31].
• Witch doctors, [203].
• Wladivostok, [24], [25], [175], [213-222], [223], [224], [239], [240], [241];
• great progress of, [219];
• its militarism, [221];
• Chinese shops in, [220];
• climate of, [222];
• Korean settlements near, [233];
• population of, [219];
• public buildings in, [220];
• visit of the Tsar to, [239].
• Wol-po, [323].
• Women of Korea, seclusion and inferior position of, [13], [119];
• “slaves to the laundry” at Seoul, [45];
• Seoul women permitted to take exercise in the streets only after nightfall, [47];
• curious to see and inspect the garb of foreign women, [88], [94], [127];
• subjection of as a wife, [118];
• social position of, [338], [339];
• peasant women, [340].
• Won-chön, [110].
• Wong, “my servant,” [66], [69], [92], [110], [125], [127], [164], [193], [197].
• Won Ju, [90], [94].
• Wön-San, [14], [19], [20], [73], [109], [112], [123], [150], [158], [160], [163], [169], [170], [173-178], [184], [245], [328], [395];
• population of, [176], [470];
• Japanese troops pass through, [245].
• Wön-sang, trade of, [176].
• Wyers, Mr., [69], [70].
• Wylie, Mr., murder of, [208], [211].
• Yalu river, the, [14].
• Yamen, a, [86], [93], [104], [112], [163], [262], [303], [338];
• runners, [51], [57], [86], [336], [338], [339].
• Yang-bans, [59], [77-79], [87], [101], [102], [114], [116], [127], [235], [322], [338], [448], [450].
• Yang-kun, [83].
• Yangtze rapids, the, [106].
• Yang-wöl, [103].
• Yantchihe, [226], [227].
• Ye Cha Yun, [427], [435].
• Yellow Sea, the, [14], [30].
• Yen, the Japanese, [305].
• Yi family, dæmon of the, [425].
• Yi, General, [206].
• Yi Hak In, Mr., [283], [284], [292], [294], [298], [302], [304], [308], [312], [318], [320], [324], [326], [331], [334], [354], [356].
• Yi Kyöng-jik, [273].
• Ying-tzü, [186].
• Yö Ju, town of, [86], [87];
• authoress an object of curiosity at, [89].
• Yöng-Chhun, [75], [76], [102], [103], [104], [106];
• rapids of, [105].
• Yong-Wöl, [78].
• Yön-yung Pa-da, [357].
• Yuan, Mr., [44], [183];
• big bell at, [147].
• Yu-chöm Sa Monastery, the, [138], [142], [143], [146], [147].
• Yul-sa, the monk, [135].
• Yung-hing, [173].
• Yung-wön, [328].

Transcriber’s Note:

Minor errors and omissions in punctuation have been fixed. Inconsistent hyphenation has been standardized. Spellings have been left as in the original text unless listed below. Smallcaps have been made ALL CAPS in the text version.

[Page 8] (Table of Contents): The title of Appendix B was changed from “Direct Foreign Trade of Korea 1896-95” to “Direct Foreign Trade of Korea 1886-95”.

[Page 8] (Table of Contents): The title of Appendix C was changed from “Direct Foreign Trade of Korea 1806-95” to “Direct Foreign Trade of Korea 1896-95”.

[Page 12]: “Legends of the aborginal” changed to “Legends of the aboriginal”.

[Page 17]: “Ampelopsis Veitchi” changed to “Ampelopsis Veitchii”.