“The depth of the pits should be regulated so as that the average depth of the bark-beds may be a yard below the level of the front flues; as to that level the bark will generally settle, although made as high as their surfaces, when new stirred up. If leaves, or a mixture of leaves with dung, are to be used instead of bark, the pits will require to be a foot, or half a yard deeper.
“It may be thought too much to insinuate, that those who have large Pineries should turn them to other purposes, and erect such as are described above. There cannot be a doubt, however, respecting the satisfaction that would follow, if to have good fruit at an easy rate were the object. I have given designs for no other kinds of new Pineries these six years past, but such as these; with some variations respecting extent, however, in order to suit different purses.”
Soil. Vegetable mould, strong brown loam, pigeons’ dung, and shell-marl, are Mr. Nicol’s ingredients. “The vegetable mould used is that from decayed tree-leaves, and those of the oak are to be preferred; but when a sufficient quantity of them cannot be had, a mixture with those of the ash, elm, birch, sycamore, &c. or indeed any that are not resinous, will answer very well. In autumn, immediately as the leaves fall, let them be gathered, and be thrown together into an heap; and let just as much light earth be thrown over them as will prevent them from being blown abroad by the wind. In this state let them lie till May, and then turn them over and mix them well. They will be rendered into mould fit for use by the next spring; but from bits of sticks, &c. being among them, they will require to be sifted before using. Strong brown loam is the next article. This should consist of the sward of a pasture, if possible; which should, previous to using, be well reduced, by exposing it a whole year to the action of the weather. Pigeon-dung, also, that has lain at least two whole years in an heap, has been frequently turned, and well exposed to the weather, is to be used. Likewise shell-marl. And, lastly, sea or river gravel, which should be sifted, and kept in a dry place; such part of it as is about the size of marrowfat peas is to be used. This is the proportion: for crowns and suckers, entire vegetable mould, with a little gravel at bottom, to strike in; afterwards, three-fourths vegetable mould, and one-fourth loam, mixed with about a twentieth part gravel, and two inches entire gravel at bottom, till about a year old. For year-olds, and till shifted into fruiting-pots, one-half vegetable mould, one-half loam; to which add a twentieth part gravel, and as much shell-marl, with three inches clean gravel at bottom. For fruiting-plants, one-half loam, a fourth part vegetable mould, and a fourth part pigeon-dung; to which add marl and gravel as above, and lay three or four inches of clean gravel at bottom. The above compositions are what I formerly used for Pine-plants with much success; and are what may be reckoned good medium soils for the production of Pine Apples.”
General Management. Mr. Nicol plants his suckers in summer and autumn as the fruit is gathered, sticking them into the front part of the bark-bed, “where they will strike root as freely as any where. If a large proportion of the crop come off early, the crowns and suckers may be potted at once, and plunged into the nursing-pit; or they may be twisted from off the stocks, and may be laid by, in a dry shed or loft for a few days, till the other operations in the Pinery be performed, and the nursing-pit be ready to receive them and the crowns, (collected as the fruit have been gathered;) which, if rooted, may be potted, and may be placed for the above time, either in a frame, or in a forcing-house of any kind, as they will sustain no injury, though out of the bark-bed for so short a time. Such crowns as have not struck root, may be laid aside with the suckers.
“With respect to the time for taking off the suckers, it is when the bottom part becomes brown; and they are then easily displaced by the thumb, after having broken down the leaf immediately under them. But, indeed, by the time the fruit is ripe, all suckers of the stem are fit for taking off, though they will sustain no injury by being left on, even for a month, but rather improve, if the stock be healthy, and if it be well watered. Suckers that rise from the root always have fibres, and may be taken off at any time; but, as they are tardy of fruiting, they should not be taken into the stock, unless in a case of necessity.
“Some think it necessary to dry, or win, all crowns and suckers before potting them, and for that purpose lay them on the shelves, &c. of the stove for a week or ten days. By this treatment, they certainly may be hurt, but cannot be improved, provided they have been fully matured before being taken from off the fruit or stocks, and that these have previously had no water for about ten days. They will succeed as well, if planted the hour they are taken off, as if treated in any other way whatever; and I only advise their being laid aside as above, as being a matter of conveniency.”
In preparing the suckers and unstruck crowns for potting, he twists off a few of the bottom leaves, and pares the end of the stump smooth with the knife. “Then fill pots of about three or four inches diameter, and five or six inches deep, (the less for the least, and the large for the largest plants), with very fine, light earth, or with entire vegetable mould of tree leaves, quite to the brim; previously placing an inch of clean gravel in the bottom of each, and observing to lay in the mould loosely. Thrust the large suckers down to within two inches of the gravel, and the small ones and crowns, two inches into the mould; firming them with the thumbs, and dressing off the mould, half an inch below the margin of the pots. Then plunge them into the bark-bed, quite down to, or rather below the brim, especially of the smaller pots. If the pots be placed at the clear distance of three or four inches from each other, according to the sizes of the plants, they will have sufficient room to grow till next shifting.”
The temperature of the nursing-pit in January with fire heat, he keeps as near as possible to 65° mornings and evenings; and in sunshine, on good days, it may be allowed to rise to about 70°. In March from 70° to 80°; and after newly potting and plunging, unstruck crowns and suckers to 80° or 85°.
To save fuel, he covers up the Pine pits when fires are used, every evening after sunset, either with double mats, or with a thick canvas cover, mounted on rollers. This cover he removes by sun-rise in the morning, unless the weather be very severe; in which case he leaves it on during the day. By the judicious use of this cover, he finds “a considerable deal of fuel may be saved.”
As to water, he says, “nurse plants require very little, perhaps once in eight or ten days, or even at greater intervals, if the weather be moist and hazy. It is safer, in winter, to give too little, rather than too much water to Pine-plants; nor should they be watered over head at this season. They should be watered in the forenoon of a sunny day, at this time of the year, in order that any water spilt on the bark, or in the hearts of the plants, may be exhaled by the heat of the sun, and by an extra quantity of air purposely admitted. This precaution, however, is only necessary for the sake of such crowns and suckers as have been struck late last season, and are not very well rooted; such being more apt to damp off than others that are better established.” In summer he supplies water regularly and plentifully once in three days; giving the proper quantity at root, and then a dewing over the leaves. He waters frequently with the drainings of the dunghill.