The different modes of cultivating the pine-apple / From its first introduction into Europe to the late improvements of T.A. Knight, esq.

by J. C. Loudon

Air he admits to the nursing-pits every good day. Even in hard frost, when the sun shines, two or three of the lights should be slipped down, to let the rarified air escape at top. After potting unrooted offsets, he gives no air till the heat begin to rise in the bark-bed; but as the plants indicate their having made roots, he gives air during sunshine, so as to keep down the thermometer to 85° or 80°.

Suckers planted in summer he shifts or re-pots in the following March. He says, “Let them be shaked out entirely; the balls be quite reduced; the roots be trimmed of all straggling and decayed fibres; and let them be replaced in the same, or in similar pots. The proper size of pots, however, in which to put crowns and suckers struck last season, is about four inches inside diameter at top, and six inches deep. A little clean gravel should be laid at the bottom of each pot, in order to drain off extra moisture; and this should be observed in the potting of Pine-plants of all sorts. I have generally observed, that if the bark heat be not violent, the plants will push very strong fibres into this stratum of gravel, in which they seem to delight. I therefore generally make it two inches thick in small pots, and three or four in larger ones, less or more, according to their size. From the time I first adopted this mode of potting, I hardly ever had an instance of an unhealthy plant; and this very particular, together with that of keeping the plants always in a mild bottom-heat, is of greater importance in the culture of Pines, than all the other rules that have been given respecting them, out of the ordinary way. The roots of Pines seem to delight in gravel; and I have been careful to introduce it into the mould for plants of all ages. I generally used small sea-gravel, in which was a considerable proportion of shells, or chips of shells, with other particles of a porous nature; and I have uniformly observed the finest fibres cling to these, and often insinuate themselves through the pores, or embrace the rougher particles. Therefore, if sea gravel can be obtained, prefer it; and next, river gravel; but avoid earthy pit gravel, and rather use sharp sand, or a mixture of pounded-stone, chips, and brick-bats. The plants being re-potted, plunge them in the bark-bed again, quite down to the rims of the pots, keeping them perfectly level. Eight or nine inches from centre to centre will be distance sufficient. When they are all placed, give a little aired water, to settle the earth about their roots. This need not be repeated till the heat in the bed rise to the pots, after which, as the plants will now begin to grow freely, they must be watered at the root once in four or five days; and they may have a dewing over head, from the fine rose of a watering-pot, occasionally, if the weather be fine.”

In May, Nicol again shifts, but the plants are not to be shaked out at this time, but are to be shifted, balls entire, into pots of about six inches diameter, and eight inches deep. “If the roots be anywise matted at bottom, or at the sides, they must be carefully singled out; and in potting, be sure that there be no cavity left between the ball and the sides of the new pot. In order the more effectually to prevent which, use a small, blunt-pointed, somewhat wedge-shaped, stick, to trindle in the mould with; observing that it be in a dry state, and be sifted fine; and also to shake the pot well, (potting on a bench or table), the better to settle the earth about the ball. Pots of this size should be filled to within half an inch of their brims, (the balls being covered about an inch with fresh earth), as the whole will settle about as much, and so leave a full inch for holding water, which is enough. In preparing the plants for potting, observe to twist off a few of the bottom leaves, as they always put out fine roots from the lower part of the stem. Also, before letting the plant out of hand, trim off the points of any leaves that may have been bruised or anywise injured in the shifting. Replunge the pots to the brim, as before, observing to keep them quite level, at the distance of fifteen inches from centre to centre of the plants on a medium; then give a little water, which need not be repeated till the heat rise to the pots.”

In November, he shifts such others whose roots have filled their pots, and have become anywise matted. “Examine any you suspect to be so, and let them be shifted into pots of the next size immediately above those they are in; keeping the balls entire, and only singling out the netted fibres at bottom. The rest should be trimmed of any dead leaves at bottom of their stems, and should have a little of the old mould taken from off the surface of the pots; which replace with fresh earth; filling the pots fuller than usual, as but little water will be required till next shifting time in the spring. The whole should then be replaced in the bark-bed as before, and should be plunged quite to the rims of the pots; giving a little water to settle the earth about their roots, which need not be repeated till the heat rise in the bed.”

Plants intended to fruit in the succeeding year, are shifted finally in the August of the year preceding. The plants are again looked over in the February following, and top dressed; but such as are unhealthy, feeble, and do not stand firm in their pots, he shakes out of their balls entirely, and re-pots in the same, or in smaller pots. “Any plants,” he says, “that have already started into fruit, should also be shaken out, and be fresh potted, as above; which, by the check they receive, will keep them back to a better season of ripening, and by the force of fresh earth, make them swell their fruit larger than they otherwise would have done. I have thus new-potted plants, even in flower, with very much success, and have swelled the fruit to a size far beyond my expectations; of which fact any one may easily satisfy himself, by fresh-potting a few plants, and comparing their progress with others treated in the ordinary way. Let the plants be re-plunged to the brim as before, keeping the pots quite level. If the plants be full-sized, and strong, they will require to be set at about twenty inches apart from centre to centre, on a medium. But they should be sorted; the smallest placed in front, and the largest at back, as in arranging plants on a stage, that they may have an equal share of sun and light. As soon as re-placed in the bark-bed, let them have a little water, to settle the earth about their roots.” In May he again top-dresses, “reducing an inch or two of the earth from off the surface, and adding some fresh mould, which will invigorate the plants, cause them to push surface radicles, and so keep them the more firm and steady. This needs not be done, however, to plants whose fruit are nearly ripe; but chiefly to healthy plants new shown in flower, past the flower, or with the fruit about half grown. And with respect to any that are unhealthy, and whose fruit are less than half grown, do not hesitate to shift them, shaking them out, trimming their roots, and retaining only healthy fibres. This is a very great improvement in the culture of Pines, which I formerly practised, have since advised, and have seen followed with much success.”

The temperature of the fruiting-pit is kept at the same degree as that of the succession department in mid-winter. This is from 60° to 65°; but as spring approaches, he rises gradually to 75°, but not allowing the thermometer to pass 80°. From 72° to 75° is his temperature for March and April. In May, June, July, and August, he requires 75° mornings and evenings, and 80° or 85° at noon. In September, after fire-heat becomes necessary, he keeps as nearly to 65° as possible, and in sunshine, by the free admission of air, to about 70° or 72°. In October, November, and December, he lowers the temperature to 60° mornings and evenings, and 65° in sunshine.

Air is admitted at all seasons in fine sunshine weather, and freely, as the fruit approaches to maturity, in order to enhance its flavour.

He gives water seldom in January, and not oftener than once in six or eight days in February. In March, “water may given oftener than heretofore advised, and also in larger quantities; generally a moderate watering at root once in three or four days, and a dewing over head occasionally, to refresh the leaves, and keep them clean from dust. From the time the plants are out of flower, and the fruit begins to swell, water must be applied in a very liberal manner once in two or three days, always giving the necessary quantity at root, and then a dewing over head. Watering to this extent, however, if the fruit be not in too forward a state, will seldom be necessary before the end of the month, or till April.” In April, “water must be given in a plentiful manner, once in two or three days, in order the better to swell off the fruit. The roots have now much to do in sustaining it, and also the suckers, which will be fast advancing in growth. For this reason, water frequently with dunghill-drainings, or with water of dung, soaked on purpose; and after each watering at root, give a dewing over the leaves, as directed above.” In May, June, and July, “from the time the fruit begin to colour, however, begin also to lessen the quantity of water; and towards its being fit for cutting, withhold water entirely, else the flavour will be very much deteriorated. I shall here observe, with respect to the different kinds of Pines, that the Queen and the Sugar-loaf sorts require considerably more water than the King or Havannah, and the Antigua. The difference in the manner of watering should be more particularly attended to as the fruit approach to maturity; as the latter-named kinds are naturally more juicy and watery than the former.” In August, the plants that have done fruiting being removed, the succession stock which replace them are to be watered freely at root, and occasionally dewed over top. In October and November, the waterings are gradually lessened; and in December, once in eight, ten, or twelve days, will be sufficient.

Insects. “If Pine plants,” Nicol observes, “by proper culture, be kept healthy and vigorous, insects will not annoy, but leave them. This fact I have repeatedly proved, both with respect to the Pine, and to other plants that are liable to be affected with the coccus, (the only insect that materially injures the Pine), which seems to delight in disease and decay, as flies do in carrion.