In calling for our bill this morning, we found that this little inn (ci-devant a royal residence) had two proprietors, one of whom lets the apartments, and the other supplies the table in the character of “traiteur.” With the charges of the latter we had no fault to find; but the demand of the former was so ridiculously exorbitant, that have kept the bill as a curiosity, of which I add the copy.

Petit Trianon logement[66].

Francs.
Trois appartemens de maître36
Bougie6
Bois9
Quatre lits de domestique12
Total63

By way of reconciling us to this extravagant charge, the mistress of the house sent her daughter to us, a very pretty girl, with the bill. Our gallantry, however, did not subdue our reason, and we determined to resist the demand. Our hostess having indignantly refused the half, which we offered as amply sufficient, Mr. ⸺ and I proceeded to Versailles, in pursuit of a juge de paix. After being sent to two or three justices, who told us, that it was not within their jurisdiction, we at last, in a miserable lodging, and at an obscure house, found the magistrate of the division. His dress and his appearance were not superiour to his residence, and from these united circumstances, we were far from expecting that justice which, in the result, we experienced.

Having heard our case, he granted a citation, requiring the attendance of the landlord; and, of course, suspended his decision till the arrival of the other party. While our servant, who carried the summons, went to execute it, we were present at a curious trial, the subject of which was a small quantity, I believe a quart, of vinegar. The defendant was a coarse masculine woman, at least sixty years of age, who, when she had exhausted all her fund of eloquence, burst into tears, and talked of the weak unprotected stare of an unhappy widow. The plaintiff was a dirty ill looking fellow, with a witness of no better appearance. They all talked together; and the justice, instead of being able to moderate their violence, found it difficult to gain a hearing himself. After a wrangle of an hour, and after swearing and counterswearing to the same fact, they went away, without the business being finally settled.

What entertained me much, was, that these disputants, in the middle of their harangues, turned round to my friend and me, and seemed anxious, each in his turn, to convince us, by their eloquence, of the justice of their respective cases; though we were not only strangers to the business, but also to the laws on which this important question was to be decided.

When our good landlady arrived, her bill was produced; and the justice having declared how exorbitant he thought it, she justified herself on three grounds.

1st. That we had not made a previous agreement; and ergo, that she had a right to demand whatever she pleased.

2dly. That she paid a great rent “à la nation[67];” and that, therefore, “la nation” ought to permit her to make her guests pay a great rent for their lodgings.

3dly. That “l’ambassadeur de l’empereur Russe[68],” having lodged at her house only a week before, and not having objected to a charge of two louis per bed, “les milords anglois” ought to think her present demand extremely reasonable.