A rough sketch of modern Paris

by J. G. Lemaistre

Notwithstanding this very able defence, the justice told her, that the law would not allow her d’écorcher les étrangers[69]; and very equitably decreed, that we should pay 36 instead of 63 francs. Madame received, very indignantly, the sum allotted her, and went away in a rage, declaring that, in future, no person should sleep at le petit Trianon, who would not bind himself before hand to pay the price which “son excellence l’ambassadeur de toutes les Russies” thought so reasonable.

So concluded our trial, which I have detailed as characteristic of what is to be expected at inns in France, if prior arrangements be not made by travellers; and likewise as an honourable proof, that justice, though not clad in ermine, is fairly administered. In going away, I was not a little surprised to find, that there were no costs to pay, and that even the summons had been issued gratuitously.

In England, where we possess so admirable a system of laws, how much are its advantages diminished, by the expenses attendant on every process! for, as a distinguished public man once well observed, though the temple of justice be open to all, it is like the London tavern, only the favourites of fortune dare approach its threshold.

In returning to our inn, we passed by the royal stables, which are still kept up, and filled with horses. These are now appropriated to the use of the officers of the army, who come here to be instructed in the menage, and who employ, for this purpose, the quondam riding school of the king. The horses appeared, at least to an english eye, very indifferent. We also saw here some arabians, lately arrived from Egypt. They are extremely plain, lanky, and awkward; but the groom assured us, on being asked if they were swift, “Oui, monsieur, comme les oiseaux.” (“Yes, sir, as swift as birds.”) It was in vain to object to outward form, when we learnt that these animals had the talent of flying. If, according to the old jockey phrase, “no good horse can have a bad colour,” certainly no horse who flies can be ugly.

Before we left Versailles, we visited the garden of le petit Trianon, which is rented by our honest landlady, and which may be seen, by paying a small sum for a ticket at the gate. It is kept in tolerable order, and has still strong marks of that good taste, with which it was originally made. It is really, and not nominally, an english garden; and would, even in our happy island, be deemed as prettily laid out, as the smallness of its extent would permit.

The little theatre, built by the queen, situate within the precincts of these grounds, is still in existence, and has suffered no loss, excepting that of the beautiful glasses with which the boxes were once splendidly illuminated. The last object, to which we were led at Versailles, was “le grand Trianon,” that favourite spot of Lewis XVI. This elegant building is also unhurt; and the fine marble pillars, which form the entrance, excited all our admiration. The poverty, into which the inhabitants of the town have fallen, in consequence of the revolution, is strikingly apparent. In every corner, we were surrounded by half-starved and half-naked beggars, whose importunities were not a little troublesome.

In returning to Paris, we took the road of St. Germain. The old castle still remains; but its outward appearance was so gloomy, that we felt no inclination to visit the interiour. If the french monarch intended to pay a compliment to the pretender, in giving him a palace as nearly as possible resembling St. James’s, his choice was admirable. The view from the terrace is pretty, but by no means either as extensive, nor as rich, as I expected from its celebrity.

In continuing our road, we saw the celebrated waterworks of Marly, which are preserved in all their perfection. We likewise passed by the famous aqueduct, and by Malmaison, the private seat of the first consul. The latter has nothing very particular to distinguish it. It is simply a moderately sized house, situate near the river, but so low, that it cannot command a very extensive prospect. I hear, the grounds are well laid out, and that the furniture of the house unites every thing which taste could order, or luxury afford. We reached Paris about six o’clock; and my first employment, after dinner, has been to write you this account, as I know that Versailles, and its neighbourhood, are among the number of objects, about which english curiosity is excited.