A rough sketch of modern Paris

by J. G. Lemaistre

I am, &c.

LETTER XXV.

Long Champ, account of that annual promenade, date of its origin, and of the great preparations made this year for attending it.—The bustle, and gayety which it produced at Paris.

Paris, april the 16th, 1802, (27 germinal).

MY DEAR SIR,

All Paris has been alive for the last three days. Can you guess the reason? Perhaps you will imagine, that the inhabitants, roused from the state of lethargy, into which they have for some time back been plunged, are beginning to give sincere but tardy marks of joy, at the reestablishment of internal order, and external peace. Not at all, my good friend. A subject, much more interesting to the parisians, is the cause of the show and gayety so generally exhibited. Know, then, that “Long Champ” has begun! I must now, like other learned commentators, explain my explanation.

“Long Champ” is the name of a village, situate on the other side of the “Bois de Boulogne,” of which latter place I spoke to you in a former letter. In this village stood an abbey, or church; and one of the holy fathers, some hundred years ago, had a voice of such extraordinary sweetness, that, when high mass was performed, crowds of Parisians flocked to hear him. His popularity was not confined to the lower class, and the noblesse shared the curiosity of the public. The fashion of going to Long Champ so rapidly increased, that, in a short time, it was no uncommon thing to see whole strings of splendid carriages at the door of the convent. The road to this village became the favourite ride, and vanity soon discovered, that it afforded an excellent opportunity of displaying all the varieties of dress, and all the pomp of equipage. In the course of a few years, it became an established custom, at this particular period of the year, to make, during three days, not an humble pilgrimage, but a splendid procession, to Long Champ. The mass and the singer were soon forgotten; but the promenade continued, and increased every year in the magnificence of parade. To appear, on this occasion, with becoming grandeur, the haughty, but often distressed noble, would, for months beforehand, deprive himself of his ordinary comforts. To rival “les dames de bonne compagnie[70]” in richness of dress, in show of equipage, and blaze of diamonds, was the grand object of the admired belles of the opera house; and the means of doing so, was the exacted price of those smiles, which the well beneficed prelate, or the wealthy financier, were sometimes permitted to enjoy. The Bourgeois and their wives appeared in their humble cabriolets, but the former wore their Sunday apparel; and the latter were loaded with all the tinsel finery, which, during the course of the year, they had been able to collect. The common people, or la canaille (as they were then indignantly called), were equally fond of this procession; and, at the risk of being run over, crowded and completed the show, some dressed in tattered regimentals, some in faded silk coats, and ragged embroidered waistcoats, and others with bag-wig’s and wooden shoes.

Such was the custom during “l’ancien régime.” The amusements of the french vanished with their old political institutions, and “horrendum dictu,” Long Champ was long unobserved.

Robespierre, and after him the directors, forbade every thing which bore the least resemblance to the customs of former times; but when Bonaparte came into power, the system was instantly changed, and the people, left to follow their own inclinations, greedily returned to all their former diversions. “Long Champ” was of the number; and, since the 18th of brumaire, it has been gradually recovering its ancient magnificence. This year, from the reestablishment of peace, and the confluence of foreigners, it was expected to be finer than ever; and vast preparations have, during some weeks past, been making. Milliners tortured their fancy to invent new fashions; mantuamakers passed whole nights without sleep, in executing the orders which they had received; coachmakers exerted themselves with all the art of their trade, and all the vanity of their country, in endeavouring to imitate the carriages of the english; horses were sent for from every part of the world; regiments of tailors were employed in making coats for the beaux, habits for the ladies, and laced jackets for their grooms; strings of boots were seen dangling on the backs of porters in every quarter of the town; saddles were as much in requisition, as if a great military project, by the means of cavalry, had been in agitation; and I have been confidently assured, that no less than three thousand pair of leather breeches were ordered on the occasion.