The Teazle and its Structure.—Its Use in raising the “Nap” on Cloth.—Its Value in Commerce.—Artificial Teazles.—The modern Cloth-dressing Machine.—The Brush an Article of Luxury.—Definition of the Brush, and its various Uses.—Brushes in Nature.—The Foot of the Fly and the Tail-brush of the Glow-worm Larva.—Mode in which they are used.—The Comb.—Varieties of the Comb as made in different Countries.—Combs in Nature.—Foot of the Spider and its Uses.—Beak of the Toucan.—Comb of the Scorpion.—Buttons, Hooks and Eyes.—Use of the Button.—The Egyptian Garment.—The Buckle and the Shoe-tie.—The Clasp.—Wing-hooks of various Insects.—The Saddle-back Oyster.
Cloth-dressing Machine.
IN former days, when so much was done by hand that is now done by machinery, the thistle called the Teazle (Dipsacus fullonum) was of great value in British commerce, being used by countless thousands in the manufacture of broadcloth.
When the woollen threads are woven so as to form the fabric of the cloth, there is no nap upon them, this having to be produced by a subsequent process. The plan of former days was, to procure a quantity of the seed-vessels of the Teazle, and dry them. They were then fastened to an instrument something like a wooden battledore, and swept over the surface of the cloth. By degrees the delicate hooklets which terminate the many scales of the seed-vessel tore up the fibres of the cloth, and produced the desired nap without impairing the strength of the thread. When this nap is worn off, the threads are again visible, producing the effect called “threadbare.”
As the art of weaving continued to progress, the demand for Teazles increased in due proportion, and vast quantities were imported from abroad. Instead of being used by band, they were then fastened to the circumference of wooden wheels as broad as the width of the cloth, and made to revolve rapidly, while the cloth was pressed against them.
For many years attempts had been made to construct artificial Teazles which would not wear out so rapidly as did the dry seed-vessels, but nothing could be constructed that was not too stiff or too strong, and which did not injure the threads while producing the nap. At last, however, this difficult problem has been solved, and the Teazle is no longer an important article of commerce, its place being supplied by delicately made cards of the finest and most elastic wire.
In the illustration a head of Teazle is given on the left hand, and on the right is seen the mode in which the wire cards are placed in the machine, and the cloth drawn over them so as to produce the required nap.
Brushes.
It is worthy of notice that there are many articles of comparative luxury which could not be used until man had attained some degree of civilisation. Among these we may class the Brush and the Comb, no true savage ever troubling himself about either article. The Brush, indeed, belongs to a much more advanced stage of civilisation than the Comb, for whereas we find combs, however rude they may be, used in semi-savage, or rather, barbarian countries, the Brush is, as far as I know, an adjunct of a high state of civilisation.