Milk, must be allowed one of its most useful productions; it is given for our use in a pure, wholesome, and nutritive state; capable of improvements, or alterations, of its nature, according to our different wants. In the Article of Cheese, and Butter, a great deal depends on the Art, Judgment, Care and Diligence of the Performer, and the good or bad qualities of each, chiefly depend on the skill and industry of the Dairy-woman. On a judicious observation you will find, that Milk is generally found even at different Seasons, to be of a regular and equal stamina, or quality, and in the same manner affected by different fluxings; by Salts, Liquids, Spirits, &c. at all times; the business of Cheese making, is a regular and constant proceeding, practised perpetually, every Day, time immemorial; and it seems strange, that when the ingredients you employ are so few, and their nature also so exceeding regular, and certain, that there can be much difficulty, in producing the Article of Cheese pure, and compleat; but daily experience convinces us, that there is an amazing difference in the goodness of Cheese, insomuch that you can scarce find two Dairys that are exactly, or even very much alike; it does not occur to the knowledge of every one what that difference is, but to a Person who deals largely in it, and makes observations upon it, must plainly appear; and though so few have ever attempted to scrutinize the nature of Cheese, or particularly of Cheese making, in a manner that yields conviction to its improvements; yet there is no reason, why that useful branch of knowledge cannot, or may not, be clearly explained.
The business has been in the hands of the Women hitherto, except in Cheshire, Wilts, some part of Gloucestershire, &c. where a large quantity of Cheese is made, a Man is employ’d as an assistant, the weight of a large Cheshire Cheese, being too great to be wrought by a Woman, and turning, rubbing, washing, and cleaning, is more than one Man can easily perform; ’tis common in large Dairys, to meet with Cheeses, Eighty, one Hundred, one Hundred and Twenty, or even one Hundred and Forty pounds a Cheese, which requires considerable strength to manage. In some part of North-Wiltshire, I am informed there are Dairys that make Twenty-five Tons in a Year; and some few more than that. A Gentleman told me, that being lately at Bath, he was informed of a Person within less then Twenty Miles, who Milk’d 200 Cows: Which led his curiosity to take a ride to see it, being a considerable Factor, who had frequent opportunity of buying Dairys of Four, Five, or Six Tons each; but had never met with any Dairy of that extent. On hearing the recital of it, led me to the same thought as would naturally strike him, viz. what sort of a House or Premises the Person must have to cure, spread or dispose of such a quantity of Cheese, to get it ready for Sale? When he came to the Place, he found the report was true, but then he milked these 200 Cows at three different Houses, in number proportionable to the convenience or situation of the Place. We often hear talk of Cheshire Dairys of 100 Cows each, which the largeness of the Cheese in a great measure accounts for. But what are called large Dairys in Warwickshire, Leicestershire, Staffordshire, or Derbyshire, is from 20 to 40 Cows each; in these parts, from general observations I have made, each Dairy may produce annually on an average three Hundred Weight of Cheese from each Cow, taking the Dairys in general. I am inclined to think more Dairys produce less than that quantity, than there are that produce more; but this is observable, much the greater number of Dairys, are on Tillable, or Arable Farms, where new Grass is introduced, which is always allowed to make less Cheese than good old Turf; and the proportion of up-land Farms, is much greater than of low-land. I have weighed many times Four Hundred from a Cow, and some few Dairys which have produced Five Hundred from each Cow; but then in scrutinizing into the affair, I find it has been attended with particular circumstances, such as being situate, in an excellent Grass Country, where Meadows of dry Old Turf have been the Pasture, where clear streams of running Water have gone through the Meadows, affording always good Beverage for the Cows, as well as a cool retreat for them in Hot Weather; by which means their Milk was kept in a temperate state, while Cows on up-lands, perhaps scorched with heat, and not having the nourishing stream to go to, or shade to protect them from the Sun, cause their gadding, or running about to such a degree, as prevented the increase of their Milk, in any proportion to what the running stream produced; and throw’d the Cows into such a heat and disorder, that their Milk would not yield near the quantity of Curd, and caused many difficulties in making the Cheese, which the cooler Dairys were not exposed to, (especially, when under the hand of an unskilful Dairy-woman,) likewise, in these prolific Dairys, the owner made a point of never keeping a Cow that was too old Milcht, or Milk’d too long from the time of Calving, or when any Cow went off her Milk either by any accident, or otherwise; then the Dairy-man always replaced her with a new Milcht one, either drying the old Milcht one for feeding, or disposing of her. That so the Dairy by that means was kept in full vigour through the Grass Season. The number of these Dairys is so very few and rare, they can only at most show the World what may be done. I have been told by a Wiltshire Factor, that the Land in their principal Dairy Country, is so Rich and Good that it is not very uncommon there for prime Dairys to yield five Hundred of Cheese from a Cow; but then there is also every Advantage in their Favour; such as (I believe no body who judgeth from the goodness of their Cheese, but must allow) the best of Dairy-women, who have been regularly bred to it from their Childhood, it generally being almost the sole employ of the Farm, and those Dairy-women led on by the greatest and most powerful emulation, of selling for the highest Price. Their Cheese being generally sold, retail, at a penny, and often two-pence per Pound, more than good Cheese in common. Their Cheese, that is made in the prime of the Season, generally known in the country by the name of Marlborough Cheese, being much brought to Fairs by Marlborough Factors, or People residing not far from thence. Or in London, by the name of North Wiltshire Cheese, which always bears the greatest Price of any Dairys, except those of Gloucestershire; which, even the finest of Barclay Hundred, do scarce come up to: And I believe by many judicious People, some of the Wiltshire Dairys are even allowed to excel. Likewise, in many very principal Dairys, they have this great Advantage; where Gentlemen in some places, occupying a large tract of Ground, or Lordship, either themselves, Stewards, Bayliff, or some other Person for them, Stock the whole or chief Part with Milking Cows, which they are very particular to get to come in, or calve, by the Time Grass is in Vigour. Then these Dairy People agree with them for the Milk of such a number of Cows, as they can manage at a given Price per Week. The Gentleman, Bailiff, &c. engaging, that if any Cow fails in her Milk before a given Time, that he will take her away and replace her with a new Milcht one, by which means their Dairys are always in full Power all Summer; and then they engage for the Winter Dairy, at a Price proportioned to the state of the Cows, either new, or old Milcht, by which means they are certainly enabled to make a larger quantity of Cheese than any common Dairy, or Land of inferior kind without these Advantages. And in many Dairys they make Cheese all the Year, as the quantity of Winter Cheese, and Fodder Cheese, sent to London Markets clearly shews.—Much depends on the situation of Dairy-ground, being nearer, or farther from the House, where the Cheese is made, as Cows being driven any considerable distance to be Milked, causeth the Milk to Heat in their Udders in Summer-time; Milking them in the Field and carrying the Milk on Horse-back in Churns, or Barrels to much Distance, I take to be still worse, as that perpetually disturbs the Milk, inclining it to the nature of Churning Cream for Butter, and the operation performed upon it, is quite of a different nature, as it is for a different purpose or design, and if Milk is put in a violent Motion by carrying, it makes it in some degree partake of the nature of Churning, insomuch, that you often observe round the Bung, Plug, or Stopple of the Churn, a Froth or Scum, work out by force of Air, or Motion in carrying, that very nearly partakes of the nature of Butter, which plainly shews that the Body of Milk, cannot be in a proper State to make Cheese with, as Butter is produced by violent Motion, and the making of Cheese from a state of Rest, being directly opposite. I take it that oftentimes in very Hot Weather, the Milk in a Cow’s Udder, much agitated by driving, or running about, is in a state not very far different from that carried in a Churn, which frequently makes the great difficulty in what is called bringing the Cheese or fixing the Curd in the Tub, or Pan; I have often heard Dairy-women say that ’tis sometimes very difficult to make it come at all, and instead of one Hour, (the Time very commonly given by Dairy-women, in bringing the Cheese,) that it will frequently not come in Three, Four, or Five Hours; and then in such an imperfect state, as to be scarce capable of being confined either in the Cheese-Vat or Press, and when released from the Press, will heave, or puff up, by Splitting or Jointing, according as the nature or state of the Curd happens to be. Whenever People find their Cows in this situation which in Hot Summer Evenings must often happen, especially, where Water is scarce, or in Grounds where there is very little Shade; then it is, that making use of a little cold Spring Water before earning, or rendling, is useful; as that will make the Runnet take effect & the Milk coagulate much sooner. It often happens, in some Dairys, that the Work is quite at a stand, the Dairy-woman not knowing how to hasten the co-agulum, or coming of the Cheese, thinks of putting more Runnet in, to forward it; but the nature of Runnet being such, as will dissolve the Curd, in part co-agulated, if more is put in; disturbs the whole, and prevents its becoming Curd at all, or, in a very imperfect manner, remaining in the Whey, in an undigested state that will neither turn to Curd or Cream, and a principal part of the richest of the Milk is then cast away with the Whey. Cold Water, with a little Salt, (as hereafter recommended) will in a great measure prevent this difficulty. One great Point, or Thing to be observed, in first setting off, or rendling the Milk, is carefully to observe the state of the Milk, as to Heat or Cold; the grand medium, or state it should be in when you put the Runnet into it, is what may be properly understood, Milk-warm; if you find it to be warmer than that, it is recommended, to put some fresh Spring Water into it, in such quantity, as will reduce it to the Milk-warm state; a Quart, Two, Three, Four or more according to the quantity of Milk to be so cooled; many People may think Water will hurt the Milk or impoverish the Cheese; experience shews it will not, but is a means of the Runnet more immediately striking or operating with the Milk. I would recommend the use of a Thermometer, to shew the degree of Heat Milk bears. I doubt not one may be constructed on a very easy Plan, that will cost a very little Money, and it will be very well worth while to be at a small Charge, to regulate a fault, of putting Milk together too Hot, which is of more ill consequence than People are aware of. The same use holds good in putting Milk together for Butter; it is observed, that Milk being set up too Hot, will not throw up Cream near so well, as when in a temperate state, and causes it sooner to turn sour.[1]
As soon as the Milk is reduced to a proper warmth, and before you put the Runnet to it, it is an exceeding good way to put a handful or two of Salt into the Milk, or three or four handfuls if your quantity is large (I recommend about two handfuls to ten or twelve Cow’s Milk;) this will also cause the Runnet to Work quick, and giving a Saltness to the whole, will be a means of preventing Sweet, or Funkey Cheese, as it will make the Cheese all Salt alike, be a means to prevent Slip Curd, or Slippery Curd, make the Curd sink in the Tub more readily, and equally.[2] If your Milk is too Cold, let some Milk be warmed and put into it, to bring it to the state of Milk-Warm, observing not to warm a small quantity to make it boil, as boiling alters the nature of Milk in some degree; scalding Heat is thought to set the Curd, making it Tough, that it is judged best, to warm a tolerable good quantity of Milk pretty warm, that it may give warmth to the whole in a sufficient degree. Sometimes you will find in Cold Weather, your Milk in the time of earning, get Chill; I have known in such a case, a Person take a Tea Kettle of Hot Water and put into it, with success; let it be when the Curd is nearly, or pretty well come, as then the Hot Water will give a Toughness to the Curd, to relieve it from the slippery nature it had acquired by being Chill, and that Chilness continuing to encrease, it is with difficulty you can bring your Cheese into a regular or fixed state. It is a very common way with many Dairy-women to allow the Milk to stand an Hour, in earning, or after the Runnet is put in, before it is gather’d, or sunk; many I fear content themselves with thinking it sufficiently come in less time, But here lies the greatest mischief in Cheese-making; the Milk is very often disturbed before its proper time, and sometimes when the whole is in a state of Slip-Curd, or Slippery Curd, which is a state all Curd is in, before it becomes solid Curd, or Curd, fit to make Cheese with. You are always to observe that the state in which it is when you first stir or disturb it, in that state the Curd will remain; it never improves as Curd, or becomes better Curd after it is disturbed or removed from its state of rest.
You will generally observe, that when you sink the Curd in the Tub, even when it is in a tolerable good state, as many imagine, there will bits of Slip-Curd swim about in the Whey and not sink with the rest, till the Whey is laden from it: That slip-Curd will not adhere to, or join with the solid Curd, and though ever so well broke or separated, yet in whatever state it is, when the Cheese is made, it all dissolves, or melts; if a bit as big as a Nut happens together, it dissolves into a Whey-Spring, runs out, and leaves a hole in the Cheese, which always decays in that place; if a bit as big as a Pin’s-head happens, it dissolves, and leaves an Eye in its place, and that is the cause of Eyes in Cheese; if you cut the Cheese when young, you will find, that there is a Moisture, or Wet, in every Place where the Eye is after it is dried up, which Wet or Moisture is called Tears.[3]
When a large quantity of slip-Curd is in a Cheese, ’tis a long Time before it becomes hard, appearing always loose within; which, when the Cheese is dry, on cutting, it appears like a Honey-comb.
The thing that more Dairy-women err in, than any other, is gathering or sinking the Cheese too soon. The rendling of Cheese, causeth a very great Fermentation; there must be time given for the fixt Air in Cheese, or Curd, set to work by the Runnet, to dissipate, expand, or fly off. Runnet is a thing so powerful in its effect, as to have no substitute yet found that can be used in its place; all Fermentations remove or separate the fixed Air, from the different Bodies they are connected with.
The effect of Runnet on Milk is very great, and in order to thoroughly fix the Curd, it must have sufficient Time to work, concrete, or congeal the Curd into a solid Mass by extirpating the Air from it; if you remove or disturb the Milk before its full Time, yet the Runnet having begun its operation, though you do not give it Time to work, by reason of hurrying it forwards, yet when it is again at rest, such Air as hath not been separated, by breaking, squeezing or pressing, will extend itself, and the Air will find a vent, or expand itself into a greater compass than it was before confined in; and whether it is in the Press, or after it comes out of the Press, will find a way to discharge itself; many times to that degree, when in the Press, as to even burst the Cheese-cloth it is wrapt in, if it is so confined that it cannot escape by it. If it does not get discharged otherways, then, as soon as the Press is let up, it will shatter the Cheese within to a surprizing degree, and immediately cause the Cheese to heave, or puff up, even in that state, which so separates the Curd in the Cheese, as it seldom settles again, unless taken quite in Time, or before the Curd is connected in the Press. A good way to prevent this disorder, of what is called Cheese heaving in the Press, from taking a bad effect, which complaint generally happens when the Milk is put together too hot, and the Whey that comes from it, is left white (which it ought never to be, for then you may be sure all is not right); when the Cheese has first been in the Press an Hour or more, let the Press up and if you find the Cheese swell, or blister, take a large Needle, or fine Skewer, of Wood or Iron, and pierce it in many places to let the Air out; a Pin is not so well, as Brass taints the Cheese, and it will appear of a tainted brassy colour ever after: If you find when the Cheese comes again out of the Press, that it still swells, or blisters, apply the Needle again, and it may perhaps settle again so as to make a useful Cheese; it will never be a good one, but will remain in the state called loose Cheese or shook Cheese. Thus you may discern somewhat of the nature of slip-Curd; every Dairy-woman should take care to become as well informed of the different properties, its nature, cause of its Formation, and manner of operating as possible, in order thereby to avoid the many difficulties proceeding from it, which are more numerous than all others, in the whole system of Cheese-making put together, and have been by them, the least considered and examined. In order to avoid many difficulties, and render you complete Mistress of the first part of the work, which is a very material Crisis, take care to be well informed of the nature of Maw-skin or Runnet-skin; it is very proper every Dairy-woman should know how to prepare them for use, which is very easily acquired; to know in what manner or to what degree it should be salted, and how, properly dried, and take particular care that you have the Maw fresh, not in a tainted or putrid state, you may happen to have such a misfortune as to have it damaged either by neglect, as to Time of preparing it, great heat of Weather, which sometimes hurts our best and freshest Meat in a surprizing degree, notwithstanding every care or caution taken to prevent it, or by the Skin having any way taken Wet, or being Fly-blown; to many of which mishaps the most careful Person, is sometimes exposed; any of which quite alter the nature of it; being of a more particular construction than any other thing, which must appear plain, when ’tis considered, that you cannot substitute or apply any one Thing, in the Article of making Cheese to a proper effect, or that will answer your purpose of extracting Curd from Milk in order to make Cheese with, but Maw-skin; and you will find that when the Skin is damaged or tainted, it looses its fermenting quality considerably; that it will either not take effect at all, or in a very partial and slow degree, and you will often find Cheese made from tainted Maw-skin appear of a putrid, unsettled, ill-tasted, discoloured nature, being affected in a different manner, according to the degree of Putrifaction the Maw-skin has received. Sometimes I have perceived the Cheese of a dusky black colour, not fixt in its Texture, or become solid and close; sometimes, in Taste resembling the flavour of tainted Beef or Mutton, when it comes to your Table; sometimes it has the smell of rotten or addled Eggs, sometimes of the most insipid or tasteless nature, which on enquiring into the cause, could never be explained to me by the Maker. Sometimes an ingenious, well-disposed Person, who wished for Improvement, or to become acquainted with the nature or consequence of such complaint, would hint to me, her fear was, the Maw-skin was damaged; tho’ I have had some, who instead of being open to conviction, or that would pay any regard either to my Opinion or Advice, would tell me that could not be cause, for they always prepared their own Maw-skins, and no one could be more careful to cure them properly, which was the reason they always avoided buying Skins as much as possible, for fear of that misfortune. All this care and precaution I doubt not was just, as from the great care many People take of their Dairy in every other respect, would be particularly cautious about their Maw-skins; but let themselves judge, whether some of the afore recited causes, might not happen to their best endeavours. When I have come to a place where the Dairy-woman has informed me she has been deceived in her Maw-skins, being then I thought on sure ground, or certainty of the cause, I have been very careful to become acquainted with the real nature of the ill effects produced in consequence thereof, and have always found some of the evils before-mentioned, and could often judge from the state I found the Cheese in, in what manner, or to what degree it was affected thereby, and even so as often to convince the Maker of it, that my Opinion was right. If at any Time this misfortune is apparent to you, that some neglect, or mishap has taken place in curing your Maw-skins, you will easily guess from which of the above causes they spring; and perhaps in a course of Time, you may become well convinced, that every one of these mischances do sometimes happen, and as you must certainly be a better, or more competent judge of the real nature of the complaints, (than any other Person can be from common observation,) you will most likely, find other causes of damage, or misfortune that happens in the process, more than I have enumerated; and if any material one, it would be exceeding useful to have it made Public, for the benefit of Society, or to warn those of the damage, whose Business it is to supply the Market with Skins for Sale. When you perceive any of your Skins have miscarried, that they are either tainted, or otherways damaged, take particular notice how they appear; in what respect they differ from perfect Skins, knowing, that the like causes produce similar effects, and then if you are obliged to buy Skins, you will be enabled to avoid buying such as have the faults you are acquainted with. I have often been led, when in a Shop where Maw-skins were on Sale, to examine them somewhat minutely, and could perceive in some of them much difference; I have seen in the same Skin sometimes, the appearance of very different qualities; I have observed discoloured Spots on holding it up to the Light; I have seen one part of a Skin of a well-coloured sound nature, another part that had somewhat the look of rough Parchment, or hard Whit-leather; on smelling, it has not appeared of the same nature, or relish, with the rest; I have also observed Skins that have appeared quite tainted, and even in a decaying state, and have seen Rendless after being made, appear of a dusky blackish colour. A Dairy-woman should be acquainted with these complaints, in order to avoid the difficulty that inevitably accrues for want of that knowledge, and should frequently taste the Runnet when made, that she may find out in Time if there is any thing disagreeable attends it; for there is no making good Cheese with bad Runnet.
The Maw-skin, or bag of the Abomasus, is the Maw or Stomach of Calves, that have fed on nothing but Milk, and are killed before the digestion is perfected, it contains an Acid Juice called Runnet, Rennet, or Earning, with which Milk is co-agulated, or rendered into Curd for making Cheese; in the Maw the Chyle is formed, that causes this co-agulum; but it greatly looses this effect, when Calves have fed on Vegetable Food; the Maw of House-Lamb, I am informed will answer the same purpose, but not of Grass Lamb. I have heard of a person who Salted the Curd, or Crudity that was found in the Maw at the Time the Calf was killed, prepared as the Maw-skin is, with good effect, only used in a larger quantity. This may easily be tried by way of experiment; I never heard of but one Person who used it, and she is now dead; that prevented my enquiry about it. Since the above was publish’d I am informed, that in the last Age, the principal part of the Cheese was made from the Curd, of the Maw prepared with Salt, till it was found the Skin was of a more clean and wholesome nature. It is observable as an old Maxim, that although Runnet readily co-agulates Milk, yet if put in when already co-agulated, it dissolves it.
There are many ways of making, or preparing Maw-skins; the best and most approved I ever met with is, as soon as your Maw is got cold, when taken from the Calf (for ’tis known that salting Meat hot, in sultry Weather, will make it taint,) let it be a little swilled in Water; some People say ’tis better not to be clean’d at all, and the effect will be greater, it coming nearer to real nature, and the reason given, is this, ’tis the inside of the Maw that has the effect in Runnet, and the chyle proceeding from it, the outside being little otherwise than any other Entrail. Rub the Maw well with Salt, then fill it, and afterwards cover it with Salt; some cut them open and spread them in Salt, one over another in layers, and let them continue in the Brine they produce, sometimes stirring, or turning them, for four, six, or nine Months, as they can spare them, then open them to dry, being stretched out with sticks or splints, that they may dry regularly; when they are dry they may be used; though, ’tis reckon’d best to be a Year Old before used, keeping them one Year under another. Do not let them in drying, be too near a Fire; if heated too much, renders them liable to reeze, (as Bacon will, when melted by heat,) and hurts their quality, giving them a rancid taste; many People think, the Brine they are prepared in, very useful in making your Runnet, putting it amongst it as other Brine, with smaller proportion of Runnet. People differ in their way of preparing Runnet or Rendless. Many will make it with Whey; some will put in with the Whey, the Brine drippings that come from the Cheese when in the Press. Both these I quite disapprove; Whey, having already undergone purgation, fermentation, or separation of the Curd from Milk, is more likely to become viscid, or gummy, acrid, or sharp, or liable to putrifaction than a more pure element. Brine drippings are of a gross foul nature, and may be deem’d, (if the expression may be allowed) even the very excrements of Cheese-making, and what ought never to be put in, in order to bring the Cheese, causing a rank and foul smell as well as taste, I take it to be the worst of all disagreeables.
The way most approved by good Dairy-women, or such as have fallen within my knowledge is this; take pure Spring Water, in quantity proportion’d to the Runnet you intend to make; it is thought best by some, about two Skins to a Gallon of Water; boil the Water, which makes it softer or more pure, make it with Salt into Brine that will swim an Egg, then let it stand till the heat is gone off, to about the heat of Blood warm, then put your Maw-skin in, either cut in pieces or whole: the former I should imagine best or most convenient; letting it steep for twenty-four Hours, or two Meals, (so called in Dairying) and it is fit for use, putting such a quantity into your Milk as you judge necessary, for rendling your quantity of Milk into Curd; observing that too much Runnet makes the Cheese strong and liable to heave, and is what many People call, tastes of the Bull, or Bull Cheese (especially when Brine drippings are put in.) Too little Runnet makes it very mild, and must have more time to stand, before it is broke, or sunk: The judgment required, in the quantity of Runnet, to be used must be regulated by your own prudence, increasing or lessening it as you find it necessary; ’tis often reckon’d, about a Tea-cup full, to ten Cows Milk. If you make a quantity of Runnet together to keep for use, let the same method be used, increasing the quantity of each material to what you want, putting it in jars or bottles, till you want it.