The way recommended to make soft Cheese, or slip-coat Cheese, is, take six quarts of new Milk hot from the Cow; the stroakings or last Milkings are the best, being the richest Milk; put into it two spoonfuls of Runnet, let it stand three quarters of an hour, or till it is hard coming, or become full Curd; lay it into the Vat with a spoon, not breaking it at all, laying upon it a trencher, or flat-board; press it with a four pound weight, or if you find it gets too hard, then press it with a lighter weight, turning it with a dry cloth once an hour, and when got stiff, shift it every day upon fresh grass or rushes; it will be fit to cut in ten or fourteen days, or sooner, if the Weather be warm; many people use Baskets, made on purpose, instead of Vats to make it in, this is esteemed in private Families; where it is carried to market, Vats must be best, unless carried in the Baskets.
To make brick-bat Cheese; in September, take two gallons of new Milk, and a quart of good Cream; warm the Cream, put in two or three spoonfuls of Runnet, when it is well come, break it a little, then put it into a wooden mould in the shape of a brick, press it a little, then dry it; it is best to be half a Year old before it is used, or more, if you like it older; two hours is as little as it ought to be in earning, or to stand before it is broke after the Runnet is put in, or longer if the Whey is not inclined to be green. I am informed Stilton Cheese is made in this way.
Cream Cheese is generally made in Autumn, the Milk being richer and fatter in August and September; by which means it has not the warm Season to ripen it, and it is generally made thick, in order to preserve it’s mellowness. Rich Cheese will not dry so fast as lean, nor thick Cheese so soon as thin; in course it must get less hard in the Season than common thin Cheese, by which means it is more exposed to frost and chilling cold. I have often found that people who make Cream Cheeses, find more casualty attend them, than in leaner, hard Cheeses, owing to chillness, or being froze before they get hard; for when frost gets much into Cheese, it destroys every good quality, and makes it putrify, and become either insipid or ill tasted; Cream Cheese should always be kept in a warm situation, and be particularly guarded from frost, and till it has sweat well, or you will lose the advantage of its richness. The contrary method is to be used with skim Cheese, as in that, there is very little fat to sweat out, and chill Cheese is better than harsh-meated, horney-coated Cheese; let it have what warmth you can for about a fortnight after making, and then keep it cool.
In making slip-coat or soft Cheese, remember it is of quite a contrary nature to hard Cheese; and instead of getting stiff, its best quality is to have it run, or dissolve into a creamy substance; for which reason it must be made with Slip-Curd, which alone will cause it so to do; good Curd will always get harder by drying, but Slip-Curd will not even become solid, or continue a Substance; this clearly demonstrates my Sentiments on Slip-Curd as before related. It has generally been reckoned that the Milk required to make one Pound of Butter will make two Pounds of Cheese, and a larger quantity where Land is poor, the Milk being weak will not afford so much Cream.
As colouring of Cheese is now become almost an universal practice, it is highly necessary to pay a due regard thereto; Cheese, in its native state, that is well Manufactured, being put together in proper time, the Milk of proper warmth, well cleaned when young, and kept warm, till being regularly Dry, will naturally be of a yellow cast, and when a Year old will coat of a reddish or brown-red colour; the richer the Cheese, the more ’tis inclined to appear in this manner, and you seldom meet with Cheese of this native cast but what is exceeding good, being fat, well-tasted, cuts flaky, is stout, or full-tasted, high-flavour’d Cheese; and it is found that every country will produce some such Cheese, when in the hands of skilful Dairy-folks, though it has yet appeared in a small degree; you will find such Cheese among the fine Dairys in Cheshire, Double-Gloucester, or Thick-Gloucester, being made double the Thickness of common Cheese, North-Wilts, in some few Dairys, in Derby, Stafford, Leicester, and Warwickshires, but there being so small a proportion of this best Cheese, and the demand for it being larger than the supply, a substitute is thought necessary, to make good Cheese look as much like fine Cheese as possible, from which cause the art of colouring originates, and much increases.
It is remarked by dealers in Cheese as well as others, that a much greater part of the People that eat Cheese, have little Idea how it is produced; they, finding the best Cheese of the fullest, or yellow colour, naturally conclude, or are led to think, that Cheese of a pale colour, must be made with inferior (or skimmed) Milk. So much this Idea prevails, that it is well known, in London, a Cheese-monger will more readily sell good Cheese of a full colour than fine Cheese of a pale or inferior colour; London being the principal Market, or place where the greatest quantity of the best Cheese is sold. Colouring formerly used to be performed by various Drugs, as Turmerick, Sanders, &c. by Marigolds, Hawthorn-buds, and the like. The principal ingredients now used is Annatto, and in its best kind, is much the best colouring that ever was found out. Annatto is of two sorts, known by the name of Spanish-Annatto and Flag-Annatto, the former is much the best for Cheese-colouring; being of a hard substance, and proper in kind, or texture, dispensing its colour in a regular and free manner, without being subject to much waste or decay. The Flag-Annatto is brought over in a moist state, and wrapped in large broad Flags, which keeps it in some degree from waste; it is brought in that state chiefly for the Dyers use, and is a principal Article in Dying Orange-colour; if this sort is used in colouring Cheese before it gets hard, it is apt to appear in the Milk of an oily nature which prevents the colour taking effect in a regular manner, and is some detriment to the coming of Cheese; if it is kept till quite dry and hard, which in course of time it will be, perhaps in six, nine, or twelve Months, it is then very little inferior to Spanish. Of this last ingredient, mixt with others, the Druggists and Blue makers in London, make large quantities of what they call Cheese-colouring, often giving it the name of Spanish-Annatto, and there is some of it made, to very much resemble it, both in nature, and colour. But true Spanish-Annatto is much preferable; I have known an ounce of it colour ten hundred weight of Cheese, of a much better colour than any other ingredient would that I ever knew; I have known it formerly sold in shops at three shillings, and four shillings per ounce; the great price it then brought at market, and getting very much into use, induced the American planters, at one time, to send a large quantity, which so much over-stocked the market, and lowered the price, that it was not worth their while to make it; and for that reason, very little of the genuine sort has come to England since; but the same materials have come in flags, which come at a much lower price, though nearly as dear in the end, being so much heavier, and the colour not going so far as the Spanish, nor is the colour so exquisite or blooming as the Spanish; that, giving the Cheese the bloom of native yellow Butter, when made in the prime season of Spring. An ill opinion having been formed of coloured Cheese, and by many said, that it is unwholesome; in order to remove that prejudice, I will endeavour to describe its nature. It is made from the seed of a plant, of the flowering kind, much like to a balsam, the seed is so much like it, as scarce to be distinguished from it; I have sowed it, but without effect, our climate being too cold. I was sometime since enquiring of a Jamaica Planter, how the Annatto was prepared for use; who said when the Seed was ripe it was covered with a slimy or unctuous skin like as Linseed is, which being steeped a little while in water, became loose from the Seed and was rubbed off with a cloth or flannel, which being afterwards washed with water, was sunk to the bottom; on pouring the water off, the Annatto was produced in a wet pulp, or paste, which being wrapped in flags, was ready for Dyers use.
In the Spanish Islands, they dry it and make it up in balls for use, and ’tis a principal ingredient in lacquering brass, &c. as well as colouring Cheese. I am well convinced that in its pure state, it is of a very rich fattening nature, and improves Cheese to a great degree, in quality, as well as colour; as I never met with any Cheese so exquisite, that had not been coloured with it, as I have of that which hath. The way it is used in colouring Cheese, is, take a piece of Spanish-Annatto, which appears in form of a stone, then take a bowl of Milk, dip the Annatto a little into it, then take a pebble, or hard Rag-stone, on which rub the Wet-Annatto, washing off the Annatto into the bowl, till it becomes of a deep colour, then put that into the tub, or pan of Milk you make Cheese of, (before you put in the Runnet or Salt) in such quantity as will render the whole of a pale Orange-colour, which will get deeper, or increase in colour after the Cheese is made; one good property Annatto partakes of, it neither affects the Cheese in taste or smell. Cheese is often impregnated with Sage, by bruising the leaves and mixing the juice with Milk, which gives it a green colour, and an agreeable taste. Some use Parsley in the same manner, but that is not so much esteemed for flavour as Sage, Marigold-flowers are bruised and used the same way; these flowers are reckoned of a very fattening nature, and good flavour, and esteemed the most of any, and give the Cheese a colour nearly equal to Annatto. Cochineal is also used by the curious, being of a fine pink hue, and has a pretty effect, in the hand of an ingenious Dairy-woman, in making figures of Flowers, Trees, &c. in Cheese.
Dairy-women who are fully of opinion, that no better method can be used, than that which they apply, are not often very readily convinced, that there are better methods of making Cheese than theirs. A Factor who is a good judge of Cheese, sees a great variety in the quality of Cheese, and altho’ most People like good Cheese, yet so easily is the difference discerned by nice judges, who have frequent opportunities of remarking it, that they can perceive a real and distinguishing property, that causes a very different Idea in them, from what they hear advanced by the makers. Such a dealer is very certain, that in a large connexion of trade, he will find some very good judges, who know how to prefer excellence in quality, and are well acquainted with the perfections required in the article, and perhaps from their situation in life, are enabled to get a much higher, than a common Market-price, for a superior Article: Such a Person will have such goods, in what place soever they can be met with, and knows also that in order to procure them he must give a superior Price.
A Person who engages to supply such customers, as such there are in perhaps every country, in a larger or lesser degree, must use his own judgment, and not depend on the good opinion others may form of their goods. He will find in a very large survey, amongst Dairys, in the best country he travels, a very small proportion of excellent Dairys, or such as will supply those particular customers, and when he meets with them, is perhaps, obliged to deal them out very sparingly to the different good customers, that may wish to have some particular nice, and good Cheese for such of their Friends, who are likewise determined to have the very best they can meet with. Very good second-rate Cheese, is much more scarce than inferior, and the best, will still find customers. Every dealer would be happy to find a large supply of fine Cheese, every maker of Cheese would be glad to have his Dairy meet with that preference. Some Dairy-folks will complain that there is not proper encouragement given for making good Cheese; as Factors give for all Dairys in a neighbourhood, nearly the same Price, though some of these Dairys are not so good as others, by some shillings per hundred: But then let these people remember, that ’tis themselves only that sit in judgment in this case. Bring the makers of two Dairys together, and you will hear each of them give the preference to their own. The Factor must clear himself of this charge! For ’tis of dangerous consequence, for a Factor to complain of any fault in the Cheese to the maker, or not give it sufficient praise.—Perhaps he will say to the Person, whose Dairy may appear the neatest, and have had most care taken of it, and in the Eye of most people, had the preference, your Cheese is extremely neat and good, is fat and mild, and will please many of our best customers exceedingly, will even stand in competition with Gloucester and Wiltshire Cheese, which is always neat, well-handled, and mostly esteemed by genteel People, your neighbour’s Cheese is not so mild or beautiful, but has many good qualities, ’tis full flavoured, stout Cheese, such as is most in demand, is bought by people who do not so much mind the beauty of it, as being profitable Cheese to buy, that will spend well, or according to the common Phrase, will eat Bread well, and though there may be a few strong Cheeses amongst them, there are many customers wish to have them so. If you go into a Fair, you will find some people looking for handsome mild Cheese, but more buyers of stout, good spending Cheese, of which they must be better judges, what suits their sale, than the makers.—Certainly there are in most Countries, some few Dairys that have all the good qualities; beautiful, fat, fine flavoured, &c. and these generally find their way to the best market. There is one best way of doing every thing, and ’tis what in every way of life is a cause of strife; a maxim I was taught in my youth, was, never strive to be second best, some one must prevail, and they that do must strive for it, the best way of doing a thing is as easy, when known, as the second best. This emulation is what every dealer in Cheese would wish to discover in the breast, and proceedings, of the Different Dairy-folks in his walk, that he might be enabled to go to Market, as one, who could lead and command both the opinion and interest of the best customers: Such goods as would give that preference to him, would of course give the command in price to those who supplied him; for though the Cheese they now make, may at present support their own good opinion, yet, when they come to find, that they have improved in so great a degree, as to enable them to see excellence, where they only saw usefulness, and blooming beauty, where only mediocrity appeared; Ambition and Interest, their bosom friends, will point out a new road to them, in which they will travel, not only as swift and prosperous, as their rival neighbours, but will not leave them in an easy and composed state, till they have out gone them. In this happy track I confess I should be glad to meet many of my old friends and neighbours, in whose service I have laboured many a long day; and so far as my abilities will support me, should be glad to be their conductor; but whether in my present pursuit, I may be so happy as to shew them the right road, is very uncertain. If by opening their Ideas afresh, shewing them where Improvements may be looked for, and giving them some convincing circumstances, where such truths appear, they may be led to look farther to find better, I shall hope they are in a fair way to prevail. Some few circumstances they perhaps may expect, to convince, and some fresh out-lines to extend the Ideas I have set on float. I will give you in a few instances, the way I came first to be moved in this pursuit.
The first that alarmed my Ideas, concerning the cause of sweet, unsettled and ill-flavoured Cheese was, I was once going by a house, I knew was notorious for as bad a Dairy as I ever met with, the Dairy-woman saw me, and said, won’t you call and look at my Cheese, I am sure ’tis as good as my neighbour T—s, which you have been buying, I replied I fear not; come in then and see, she said; as soon as I came into the Dairy-chamber, I saw, and told her it would not suit me; why not, she replied, I am sure ’tis every drop New-Milk, and nobody can take more pains with it, nor work harder at it than I do. On looking to the farther side of the room, I perceived a Cheese that was very blooming in appearance, handsome in shape, well-coated, firm, fat, and much larger than the rest. I said, pray how came that Cheese there—I should be glad to know the History of it; why truly said she ’tis a strange one. I replied if you will make such Cheese as that, it would be worth five shillings, or even ten shillings a hundred weight, more than the rest; says she, one night when I had rendled my Milk, a person came running to me, and said, neighbour T— is groaning and you must come immediately; I said to a raw wench I had to help me, now be sure you don’t touch this Cheese till I come back, I will be sure to come to you when I see how neighbour T— is; but it happened she was worse than I expected, and I could not leave her till after midnight. I said, my Cheese will be spoiled, but the poor Woman shall not be lost for a Cheese; when I came home I found it not so bad as I expected, put it into the Vat in a hurry, saying, it may possibly make a Cheese that will do for ourselves, but I little thought it would ever be a saleable Cheese;—well now—said I, and is not this Cheese a proper lesson to you? don’t you thereby plainly see that you have made the rest too quick—why yes—said she, it might, if I had thought at all—but I declare, I never once thought about it—Profound stupidity! thought I to myself, and left her—however, this plainly convinced me that Cheese in general was made too much in a hurry, and often when I came to a Dairy where the same complaint prevailed, I told them this story, and it frequently had the good effect, to produce good Cheese in the lieu of bad, by giving more time to the Milk in earning.