“Mrs. General --- is a lady who goes into society a great deal. She has a new dress for every occasion. The following costume appeared at the Charity Ball, which is the great ball of the year in New York. It was imported from Paris for the occasion, and was made of white satin, point lace, and a profusion of flowers. The skirt had heavy flutings of satin around the bottom, and the lace flounces were looped up at the sides
“It is nothing uncommon to meet in New York society ladies who have on dry-goods and jewelry to the value of from thirty to fifty thousand dollars. Dress patterns of twilled satin, the ground pale green, pearl, melon color, or white, scattered with sprays of flowers in raised velvet, sell for $300 dollars each; violet poult de soie will sell for $12 dollars a yard; a figured moire will sell for $200 the pattern; a pearl-colored silk, trimmed with point appliqué lace, sells for $1000; and so we might go on to an almost indefinite length.”
Those who think this an exaggerated picture have only to apply to the proprietor of any first-class city dry-goods store, and he will confirm its truthfulness. These gentlemen will tell you that while their sales of staple goods are heavy, they are proportionately lighter than the sales of articles of pure luxury. At Stewart’s the average sales of silks, laces, velvets, shawls, gloves, furs, and embroideries is about $24,500 per diem. The sales of silks alone average about $15,000 per diem.
A few years ago the dwelling of a wealthy citizen of New York was consumed by fire. The owner of the mansion soon after applied to a prominent Insurance Company for the payment of the sum of $21,000, the amount of the risk they had taken on the wearing apparel of his daughter, a young lady well known in society for the splendor of her attire. The company refused to pay so large a sum, and protested that the lady in question could not have possessed so costly a wardrobe. Suit was brought by the claimant, and, as a matter of course, an enumeration of the articles destroyed and their value was made to the court. The list was as follows, and is interesting as showing the mysteries of a fashionable lady’s wardrobe:
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6 silk robes—red, enamelled, green, blue, yellow, pink,
black—with fringes, ruches, velvets, lace trimmings, etc.
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$950
|
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1 blue Marie Louise gros-de-Naples, brocaded with silver taken from the
looms of Lyons; cost, without a stitch in it
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300
|
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Silver bullion fringe tassels and real lace to match
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200
|
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1 rose-colored satin, brocaded in white velvet, with deep flounce
of real blonde lace, half-yard wide; sleeves and bertha richly trimmed with
the same rose-colored satin ribbon; satin on each side, with silk cord and
tassel; lined throughout body, skirt and sleeves with white silk
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$400
|
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1 white satin of exceedingly rich quality, trimmed with blonde and
bugles; two flounces of very deep point d’Alençon, sleeves of
the same, reaching down to the elbows, and bertha to match, with white
bugles and blonde to match
|
2500
|
|
1 royal blue satin dress, trimmed, apron-shape, with black Brussels lace
and gold and bugle trimmings, with one flounce, going all around the skirt,
of black Brussels lace; body and sleeves to match; sleeves looped up with
blue velvet roses set in lace, to imitate a bouquet
|
1500
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|
1 dove-colored satin dress, trimmed with velvet, half-yard deep; a long
trail with the velvet going all around, with llama fringe and dove-colored
acorns, forming a heading to the velvet, and going all up the skirt and
around the long Greek sleeves; the sleeves lined with white satin and
quills of silver ribbon going around the throat; lined throughout with
white silk, having belonging to it a cloak and hood, lined and trimmed to
match; made in Paris
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425
|
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1 black Mantua velvet robe, long train, sleeves hanging down as far as
the knees, open, lined with white satin, and trimmed all round with
seed-pearls, as well as all round the top of low body—the seed-pearls
forming clusters of leaves going down front of skirt and all round the
skirt and train
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500
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1 rich moire-antique dress, embroidered in gold from the body to the
skirt and sleeves and all round, taken up and fastened up with gold
embroidery to imitate the folds and wrinkles of the dress, trimmed round
the edge with white Brussels lace, having an underskirt of amber satin
trimmed with Brussels lace, to show underneath; lined throughout with
silk
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400
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1 large Brussels shawl, of exquisite fineness and elegance of design, to
go with it
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700
|
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1 crimson velvet dress, lined throughout with rose-colored silk; train
very long, trimmed with rich silk, blonde lace covering the entire train,
being carried around and brought up the front of the dress and body,
forming the bertha; and sleeves looped up with white roses; turquoise fan
and slippers to match
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400
|
|
1 blue mercantique (lined), low body, trimmed with Honiton lace, body
and sleeves; one piece of silk to match, unmade, intended for high body,
and bons; sleeves slashed open and lined with white satin
|
200
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1 rose-colored robe, with flounces; high and low body, having fringe and
trimming woven to imitate Russian fur; both bodies trimmed with fringe
ribbons and narrow lace
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$250
|
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1 mauve-colored glacé silk, braided and bugled all around the
bottom of skirt, on the front of body, around the band of Garibaldi body,
down the sleeves and round the cuffs of Garibaldi body; the low body, with
bertha deeply braided and bugled, with sleeves to match; long sash, with
end and bows and belts, all richly braided and bugled with thread lace
|
180
|
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1 vraie couleur de rose gros-de-Naples, with flounces richly brocaded
with bouquet in natural size and color, made to represent the same in
panels, trimmed with gimp and fringe to match; also, high and low body,
with bertha and trimmings to match
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300
|
|
1 pink morning robe, very superb, trimmed down the side with white satin
a quarter of a yard wide, sleeves trimmed to match, satin-stitched, with
flounces in pink silk on edge of satin, passementerie cord and tassels
|
250
|
|
1 gold-colored silk aersphane, with three skirts, each skirt trimmed
with quillings of yellow satin ribbon, looped up with pink roses: body to
match, trimmed with silk blonde; white blonde round the neck; satin
quillings; silk blonde on the sleeves, and lace and yellow satin; rich
underskirt to match
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100
|
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2 very richly embroidered French cambric morning-dresses, with bullion
and heavy satin ribbons running through; one lined throughout with pink,
the other with blue silk
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100
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1 rich black silk glacé, trimmed with bugles and black velvet
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200
|
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1 blue-black Irish silk poplin, made in Gabrielle style, trimmed with
scarlet velvet all round the skirt; sleeves and body-belt and buckle to
match
|
125
|
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1 Cashmere, shawl pattern, morning-dress, lined; sleeves and flies lined
with red silk, cord and tassels to match; not twice on
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100
|
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1 white Swiss muslin, with double skirt and ribbon running through the
upper and lower hems of each skirt, of pink satin; body with Greek sleeves
to match
|
90
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1 straw-colored silk dress, trimmed with black velvet, and body of the
same
|
80
|
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1 white Swiss muslin robe, with one plain skirt and one above, graduated
by larger and smaller tucks to imitate three flounces; the sleeves with
puffs, and long sleeves with tucks, down and across to match skirts, and
Garibaldi body made to match; one pink satin under-body to go with it
|
95
|
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1 white Swiss muslin dress, with three flounces, quilled and tucked,
graduated one above the other, with headings of lace on the top of each
flounce; low body, with tuck, bretelles and broad colored sarsnet
ribbon
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90
|
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1 India muslin dress, very full, embroidered to imitate three
flounces; and Greek body and sleeves, also embroidered to match sky-blue
skirt and body to go underneath
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$110
|
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1 India muslin dress, double skirt, richly embroidered, with high jacket
and long sleeves embroidered to match
|
90
|
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1 pink satin skirt and bodice, to go underneath
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25
|
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1 white long morning dress, embroidered round the skirt and up the
front, in two flounces, one hanging over the other; sleeves and cuffs to
match
|
60
|
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1 white muslin, with white spots, skirt and bodice trimmed with bullion
and narrow real Valenciennes lace
|
80
|
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2 white cambric morning-dresses, one very richly embroidered, in wheels
and flounces; and jacket to match
|
275
|
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1 white Swiss muslin jacket, very richly embroidered; skirt and bodice
to match
|
100
|
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3 cambric tight-fitting jackets, with collar and sleeves very richly
embroidered, to imitate old Spanish point
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120
|
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5 Marie Antoinettes, made entirely of French muslin, with triple bullion
and double face; pink satin ribbon running through. Cost $60 each
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300
|
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1 piqué morning dress and jacket, richly embroidered
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75
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1 piqué skirt, richly embroidered
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50
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6 fine Swiss muslin skirts, four yards in each, trimmed with two rows of
real lace, to set in full, finely finished
|
55
|
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2 very rich bastistes, for morning-dresses
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120
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2 very fine cambric skirts, delicately embroidered, to wear with open
morning-dresses
|
60
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2 fine linen skirts, embroidered in open work
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40
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2 silk grenadine dresses, trimmed with Maltese lace and velvet; two
bodices to match, blue and green
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200
|
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2 silk baréges, trimmed with velvet and fringe, and bodice to
match
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200
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1 Scotch catlin silk full dress, Stewart, trimmed with black velvet and
fringe, made to match colors of dress
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100
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3 Balmoral skirts, very elegant, embroidered in silk
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90
|
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1 ponceau silk dress, trimmed with llama fringe and gold balls; body and
sleeves very richly trimmed to match
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250
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1 blue silk to match, trimmed with steel fringe and bugles; body and
sleeves richly trimmed
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250
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1 French muslin jacket, with lapels and sleeves to turn back, very
heavily embroidered
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40
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1 set point d’Alençon, consisting of shirt sleeves,
handkerchief, and collar
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120
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1 point d’Alençon extra large handkerchief
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100
|
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1 set Honiton lace, consisting of handkerchief, collar, and
sleeves
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$80
|
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1 set Maltese lace, consisting of handkerchief, collar, velvet cape
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300
|
|
1 set Irish point lace, very rich, consisting of wide, deep sleeves,
handkerchief and collar
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80
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1 cape of ditto, going up to the neck and shut at the back
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35
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2 black lace mantillas
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40
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1 black lace jacket
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15
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1 cape, composed of Valenciennes lace
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75
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2 dozen very rich embroidered cambric chemises, with lace
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120
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6 ditto, with puffed bullions in front
|
100
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18 Irish linen chemises, with very rich fronts
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200
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7 Irish linen, embroidered
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40
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1 dozen night-dresses, very rich fronts
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216
|
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3 linen ditto, very rich
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75
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1 dozen embroidered drawers
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72
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2 very rich ditto
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50
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11 new pairs silk stockings, in box
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40
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1 dozen Lisle thread stockings
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20
|
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9 pairs boots and shoes
|
45
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3 pairs embroidered slippers, very rich, in gold
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40
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1 pair Irish point lace sleeves (extra)
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30
|
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1 black velvet embroidered mantilla, imported
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450
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1 ditto, silk, embroidered with bugles, imported
|
100
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1 glacé silk, tight-fitting basque, with black zeplore lace cape;
trimmed in every width with narrow lace to match
|
65
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1 black silk Arab, with two tassels
|
25
|
|
1 dust-wrapper, from Cashmere
|
18
|
|
4 magnificent opera-cloaks
|
175
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|
1 red scarlet cloth cloak, trimmed with yellow cord
|
12
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|
1 cloth, drab-color cloak
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8
|
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1 cloak, with hood lined with silk
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10
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2 dozen cambric, embroidered, with name Fanny
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24
|
|
1 set Russian sable muffs, cape and boa
|
100
|
|
1 tortoise shell comb, made in one piece and very rich
|
50
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|
6 fancy combs
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30
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|
1 very rich mother-of-pearl, gold inlaid, and vol. feathers beautifully
painted by hand
|
85
|
|
1 fan of mother-of pearl, inlaid in gold, with silk and white and
Job’s spangles
|
45
|
|
1 blue mother-of-pearl, with looking-glass; imitation ruby and
emeralds
|
35
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6 other fans, of various kinds
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25
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1 parasol, all ivory handle throughout, engraved with name in full,
covering of silk and Irish point lace, very fine, covering the entire
parasol
|
100
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Several other parasols
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$25
|
|
1 real gold head-ornament, representing the comet and eclipse
appearing
|
100
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About twenty hair-nets, silver, gold, and all colors and pearls
|
40
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4 ladies’ bonnets, some exceedingly elegant
|
100
|
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1 box marabout feathers, for dressing the hair
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50
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|
1 box artificial flowers
|
l5
|
|
1 lot new ribbon, for sashes; velvet, silk, and satin
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35
|
|
1 small miniature model piano, played by mechanism, from Vienna
|
50
|
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1 lady’s writing-desk, inlaid with tortoise-shell and
mother-of-pearl, lined with silk velvet, with compartments and secretary;
carved mother-of-pearl paper-knife, gold seal, gold pencil, case full of
fancy writing paper; made in Paris
|
200
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|
1 bula work-box, elegant; inlaid with silver and lined with ci-satin,
fitted with gold thimble, needle, scissors, pen-knife, gold bodkin, cotton
winders; outside to match French piano
|
125
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1 long knitting-case to match the above, fitted with needles, beads and
silk of every description
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40
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1 papier-maché work-box, and fitted up
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5
|
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1 morocco work-bag, ornamented with bright steel; fitted up with
scissors, thimble, etc
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3
|
|
1 lady’s Russia leather shopping-bag, with silver and gilt clasps
for chain and key
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15
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1 18-karat gold filigree card-case
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20
|
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1 set gold whist-markers, in hands on little box, a present unto her
|
50
|
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1 lady’s small work-bag, silk fittings
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5
|
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1 solid silver porte-monnaie
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19
|
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1 little blue porte-monnaie; velvet, and cords and tassel
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3
|
|
1 ladies’ companion, with fixings in silver; a present
|
45
|
|
1 hair-pin stand; a small book-case, with small drawers and mirror
|
14
|
|
1 basket of mother-of-pearl, and gilt and red satin, full of
wax-flowers
|
35
|
|
1 elegant Bible in gilt, edge mounted in gold
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30
|
|
43 volumes various miniature books, bound most elegantly in morocco, and
brought as a present from Europe
|
100
|
|
1 silver pin-cushion and sewer for fastening on the table
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23
|
|
1 elegant, richly carved ivory work-table, brought from Mexico, inside
fitted up with silk and different compartments, standing three feet
high
|
400
|
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1 lady’s solid silver rutler, from Mexico
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25
|
|
1 gilt head-ornament, representing a dagger
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3
|
|
1 lady’s English dressing-case, solid silver fittings,
English make and stamp, rosewood, bound with brass and gilt, fitted and
lined with silver
|
$250
|
|
1 pair rich carved ivory hair brushes, engraved with name and crest
|
155
|
|
1 ditto engraved and crest
|
55
|
|
1 small ivory hair-brush
|
12
|
|
1 ebony hair-brush, inlaid with mother-of-pearl
|
20
|
|
1 Berlin-wool worked cushion
|
50
|
|
1 sewing-chair, elegantly embroidered seat and back
|
75
|
|
1 Berlin-wool Affghan
|
100
|
|
1 fire-screen, Berlin work, beads, representing Charles II. hunting
|
125
|
|
1 large sole-leather trunk, about four feet long and three feet deep,
lined with red morocco, handsomely ornamented in gold, embossed on the red
morocco, with seven compartments; very scientifically constructed for the
necessities of a lady’s wardrobe, with springs to hold open each
compartment; and the lace compartment could, at pleasure, be rested on two
steel legs, covered with gilt embossed morocco, representing a writing
table, with a portfolio, containing writing materials; it had two large
French patent locks
|
250
|
|
1 lady’s travelling trunk, with cover, containing a quantity of
worn dresses, zouave cloth and gold, druided jacket cloaks, woollen ditto,
opera cloak, etc
|
73
|
|
Total
|
$21,000
|
Such lavish expenditure is a natural consequence of a state of society where wealth is the main distinction. Mrs. John Smith’s position as a leader of the ton is due exclusively to her great riches and her elaborate displays. Mrs. Richard Roe will naturally try to outshine her, and thus rise above her in the social scale. Many persons seeking admission into such society, and finding wealth the only requisite, will make any sacrifice to accomplish their end. If they have not wealth they will affect to have it. They could not counterfeit good birth, or high breeding, but they can assume the appearance of being wealthy. They can conduct themselves, for a while at least, in a manner utterly disproportioned to their means, and so they go on, until their funds and credit being exhausted, they are forced to drop out of the circles in which they have moved, and the so-called friends who valued them only for their supposed wealth, instantly
Not a year passes but records the failure of some prominent business man in New York. His friends are sorry for him, and admit that he was prudent and industrious in his business. “His family did it,” they tell you, shaking their heads. “They lived too fast. Took too much money to run the house, to dress, and to keep up in society.” Only the All Seeing Eye can tell how many men who stand well in the mercantile community are tortured continually by the thought that their extravagance or that of their families is bringing them to sure and certain ruin; for not even in New York can a man live beyond his actual means. They have not the moral courage to live within their legitimate incomes. To do so would be to lose their positions in society, and they go on straining every nerve to meet the demands upon them, and then the crash comes, and they are ruined.
Those who dwell in the great city, and watch its ways with observant eyes, see many evils directly attributable to the sin of extravagance. These evils are not entirely of a pecuniary nature. There are others of a more terrible character. Keen observers see every day women whose husbands and fathers are in receipt of limited incomes, dressing as if their means were unlimited. All this magnificence is not purchased out of the lawful income of the husband or father. The excess is made up in other ways—often by the sacrifice of the woman’s virtue. She finds a man willing to pay liberally for her favors, and carries on an intrigue with him, keeping her confiding husband in ignorance of it all the while. She may have more than one lover—perhaps a dozen. When a woman sins from motives such as these, she does not stop to count the cost. Her sole object is to get money, and she gets it. It is this class of nominally virtuous married and unmarried women that support the infamous houses of assignation to be found in the city.