Fragments of Earth Lore: Sketches & Addresses Geological and Geographical

by James Geikie

North and South Harris yield unequivocal evidence of having been overflowed by ice which did not stream out of the mountain-valleys, but crossed the island from the Minch to the Atlantic. A number of mountain-glens, coming down from the Forest of Harris, open out upon West Loch Tarbert, and these we see have been crossed at right angles by the ice—the mountains between them being strongly abraded from south-east to north-west. It is the same all over South Harris, which affords the geologist every evidence of having been literally smothered in ice, which has moved in the same persistent direction. The rock-faces that look towards the Minch are all excessively naked; they have been terribly ground down and scraped, and the same holds good with every part of the island exposed to the south-east.

Now, the mode in which the rocks have been so ground, scraped, rounded, and smoothed betokens very clearly the action of land-ice, and not of floating-ice or icebergs. The abrading agent has accommodated itself to all the sinuosities of the ground, sliding into hollows and creeping out of them, moulding itself over projecting rocks, so as eventually to grind away all their asperities, and convert rugged tors and peaks into round-backed, dome-shaped masses. It has carried away the sharp edges of escarpments and ridges, and has deepened the intervening hollows in a somewhat irregular way, so that now these catch the drainage of the land and form lakes. Steep rocks facing the Minch have been bevelled off and rounded atop, while in their rear the ice-plough, not being able to act with effect, has not succeeded in removing the primeval ruggedness of the weathered strata.

I have said that the movement of the ice was from south-east to north-west. But a close examination of the ice-markings will show that the flow was very frequently influenced by the form of the ground. Minor features it was able to disregard, but some prominent projecting rock-masses succeeded in deflecting the ice that flowed against them. For example, if we study the rocks in North Harris, we shall find that the Langa and the Clisham have served as a wedge to divide the ice, part of which flowed away into Lewis, while the other current or stream crept out to sea by West Loch Tarbert. The Langa and the Clisham, indeed, raised their heads above the glacier mass—they were islets in a sea of ice. It is for this reason that they and the Tarcull ridge in South Harris have not been smoothed and abraded, but still preserve their weathered outline. All surfaces below a height of 1600 feet which are exposed to the south-east, and which have not been in recent times broken up by the action of rain and frost, exhibit strongly-marked glaciation. But above that level no signs of ancient ice-work can be recognised.

We see now why it is that the hill-slopes opposite the Minch should, as a rule, be so much more sterile than those which slope down to the Atlantic. The full force of the ice was exerted upon the south-east front, in the rear of which there would necessarily be comparatively “quiet” ice. For the same reason we should expect to find much of the rock débris which the ice swept off the south-east front sheltering on the opposite side. Neither clay nor sand nor stones would gather under the ice upon the steep rocks that face the Minch. The movement there was too severe to permit of any such accumulation. But stones and clay and sand were carried over and swept round the hills, and gradually accumulated in the rear of the ice-worn rocks, just in the same way as gravel and sand are heaped up behind projecting stones and boulders in the bed of a stream. Hence it is that the western margin of Harris is so much less bleak than the opposite side. Considerable taluses of “till,” as the sub-glacial débris is called, gather behind the steeper crags, and ragged sheets of the same material extend over the low-grounds. All the low-grounds of Lewis are in like manner sprinkled with till. Over that region the ice met with but few obstacles to its course, and consequently the débris it forced along underneath was spread out somewhat equally. But wherever hills and peaks and hummocks of rock broke the regularity of the surface, there great abrasion took place and no till was accumulated.

Thus the position and distribution of this sub-glacial débris or bottom-moraine tell the same tale as the abraded rocks and glacial striæ, and clearly indicate an ice-flow from the south-east. This is still further proved by the manner in which the upturned ends of the strata are frequently bent over underneath the till in a north-westerly direction, while the fragments dislodged from them and enclosed in the sub-glacial débris stream away as it were to the same point of the compass. Not only so, but in the west of Lewis, where no red sandstone occurs, we find boulders of red sandstone enclosed in the till, which could not have been derived from any place nearer than Stornoway. In other words, these boulders have travelled across the island from the shores of the Minch to the Atlantic sea-board.

Having said so much about the glaciation of Lewis and Harris, I need not do more than indicate very briefly some of the more interesting features of the islands further south.

I spent some time cruising up and down the Sound of Harris, and found that all the islets there had been ground and scraped by ice flowing in the normal north-west direction, and sub-glacial débris occurs on at least one of the little islands—Harmetrey. But all the phenomena of glaciation are met with in most abundance in the dreary island of North Uist. The ridge of mountains that guards its east coast has been battered, and ground down, and scraped bare in the most wonderful manner, while the melancholy moorlands are everywhere sprinkled with till, full of glaciated stones, many of which have travelled west from the coast range. Benbecula shows in like manner a considerable sprinkling of till, and the trend of the glacial striæ is the same there as in North Uist, namely, a little north of west. There are no hills of any consequence in Benbecula, but the highly-abraded and barren-looking mountains that fringe the eastern margin of North Uist are continued south in the islands of Roney and Fuiey, either of which it would be hard to surpass as examples of the prodigious effect of land-ice in scouring, scraping, and grinding the surface over which it moves.

South Uist presents the same general configuration as North Uist, its east coast being formed of a long range of intensely glaciated mountains, in the rear of which ragged sheets and heaps of sub-glacial débris are thrown and scattered over the low, undulating tract that borders the Atlantic. No part of either Benbecula or North Uist has escaped the action of ice, but in South Uist that knot of high-ground which is dominated by the fine mountains of Beinn Mhor and Hecla towered above the level of the glacier-mass, and have thus been the cause of considerable deflection of the ice-flow. The ice-stream divided, as it were, part flowing round the north flank of Hecla, and part streaming past the southern slopes of Beinn Mhor. But the ice-flow thus divided speedily reunited in the rear of the mountains, the southern stream creeping in from the south-east, and the northern stream stealing round Hecla towards the south-west. The track of this remarkable deflection and reunion is clearly marked out by numerous striæ all over the low-grounds that slope outwards to the Atlantic coast. The till, it need hardly be added, affords the same kind of evidence as the sub-glacial deposits of the other islands, and points unmistakably to a general ice-movement across South Uist from the Minch to the Atlantic.

The influence which an irregular surface has in causing local deflections of an ice-flow is also well seen in Barra, where the striæ sometimes point some 5° or 10°, and sometimes 25° and even 35° north of west—these variations being entirely due to the configuration of the ground. This island is extremely bare in many places, more especially over all the region that slopes to the Minch. The Atlantic border is somewhat better covered with soil, as is the case with South Uist and the other islands already described.

Vatersey, Saundry, Papey, Miuley, and Bearnarey, are all equally well glaciated; but as they show little or no low-ground with gentle slopes, they have preserved few traces of sub-glacial débris. In this respect they resemble the rockier and hillier parts of the large islands to the north. Till, however, is occasionally met with, as for example on the low shores of Vatersey Bay, and on the southern margin of Miuley. Doubtless, if it were carefully looked for it would be found sheltering in patches in many nooks and hollows, protected from the grind of the ice that advanced from the south-east. I saw it in several such places in the islet of Bearnarey, where the striæ indicated an ice-flow as usual towards the north-west.