The slave-ships arriving at the Brazil present a terrible picture of human wretchedness, the decks being crowded with beings as closely stowed as it is possible, whose melancholy black faces, and gaunt naked bodies, are of themselves sufficient to transfix with horror an individual unused to such scenes, independently of the painful reflections connected with a consideration of the debasing circumstances and condition of this portion of mankind. A great many of them, as they are seen proceeding from the ships to the warehouses where they are to be exposed for sale, actually appear like walking skeletons, particularly the children; and the skin, which scarcely seems adequate to keep the bones together, is covered with a loathsome disease, which the Portuguese call sarna, but may more properly be denominated the scurvy. The poor wretches undergo painful remedies to prepare them as speedily as possible for market. If a visit to the street of warehouses appropriated to their reception be occasioned by a desire of gratifying curiosity, the sentiments brought into operation by such a scene will soon hurry the visitor away in pity and disgust. They are crowded together without regard to sex, and made to sit down in rows upon the ground, being by turns roughly forced upon their feet, for the purpose of exhibiting their bodily powers to a purchaser. Negroes are become very dear; those that might have been procured three years ago for thirty-five or forty pounds, are now worth sixty or seventy.
Strangers coming here are also subject to the sarna, as well as the natives, which is an irruption attended with considerable irritation and itching about the legs, feet, and ancles, and becomes troublesome unless great care is taken, by washing them every night with warm water and cachaça. The bicho is also another annoyance peculiar to the climate, ever filling the air, the water, and the earth with new and infinite animation. This insect generates in the dust and sand, and penetrating the foot not larger than an atom at first, increases to the size of a small white worm, giving considerable pain till extracted; in doing which, it is necessary to remove all the little eggs which it leaves behind, otherwise they would soon acquire life, and, if allowed, eat away the foot. I have seen numbers of negroes, whose legs and feet, with the aid of the sarna, have been literally destroyed, and almost corroded away by them. The little black boys sitting down, and extracting them from their feet with a pin, reminded me of the celebrated bronze figure of a boy, in the attitude of taking a thorn from his foot, which occupies a place in the Salle de Laocoon, at the Louvre.
In traversing the woods, the carrapato, with which the branches frequently swarm, is an annoying and dangerous enemy. It is similar in appearance to a sheep-tick, and introduces the head and main part of the body into the flesh, when, if taken away forcibly, it leaves a disagreeable wound. One of these vermin penetrated the leg of the King, and, being injudiciously forced away, caused a wound, which has been occasionally troublesome to his Majesty ever since. The application of oil is deemed an efficacious mode of removing them; but I found this ineffectual, after using it copiously for about half an hour on one that was nearly buried in the ear of a negro-boy.
On first arriving here, the inharmonious sounds which begin to annoy the ear about Avi Maria, sent forth by field-crickets, frogs, toads, and other reptiles, are quite alarming to a stranger, who anticipates at every step, if he walks into a shacara, to encounter some venomous creature. It is custom alone that reconciles this loud, unceasing, nocturnal clamour. Lizards are very numerous, some of a green colour. They are timid, and are constantly seen running across the roads, up walls, or rustling amongst the hedges. The vampire-bat is very large here, and if they can get access to the stables will fix upon a horse, and suck the blood. I have seen the back of a horse quite saturated with it, in consequence of a bite from one of them. They are said to fan their wings, during this sanguinary proceeding, in order to assuage the pain which their bite creates. It is supposed that they would fix upon the human body in the same way; and this is probable, from the following circumstance. In consequence of the excessive heat, I was in the habit of leaving open the shutter of my bed-room. One evening I discovered a vampire-bat, as large as two hands, upon the bed-post, and, by a blow, stunned it, so that it could not escape by the window, but secreted itself in the room. During the night it got twice upon the bed, but the heat preventing a sound sleep, I was quickly awakened by its attempts.
It is too well known, perhaps, to remark that the Brazil is not the seat of literature; in fact, its total absence is marked by the prohibition of books generally, and the want of any single medium through which its inhabitants can attain even to a knowledge of the existing state of the world, or what is passing in it. The inhabitants are principally involved in great ignorance and pride, its usual consequence; an acquirement of the modes and ceremonies attached to the pompous observance of their religion appearing to be deemed quite adequate to all the purposes of the present system of society. A liberal literary institution of any kind throughout the state, or a stimulus to a man of talent, would be looked for in vain. A gazette, published twice a week, is printed at the royal press, the only one established here; but it affords to the people no intelligence of the state of their own country or that of others. It is the size of a sheet of small letter-paper, and is filled with the arrivals and departures of vessels, and some advertisements, while occasionally two or three heads are extracted with caution from the English newspapers. In the whole of the Brazil there is only one other gazette, and that is published at Bahia. Its neighbouring colony of Spanish South America has already begun to dispel the ignorance in which it was alike enveloped, by the establishment of several public colleges in different places, and the liberal and free introduction of books, which will fast promote the spirit of learning that partially begins to dawn. Jealousy, which acquires a greater sway, from this confined state of education and knowledge, obtains unbounded influence over the minds of many of the Brazilians, and operates in some instances to such a degree that its victims are degraded much below the savage: they do not declare their resentment openly, and demand frankly that redress or explanation which a man sustaining a real or imaginary injury from another has a right to require; but they seek in privacy the destruction of the object who may have created in their breasts sentiments of revenge, frequently resting upon a false and unjust foundation, but which the inveteracy of this diabolical passion will allow them neither to investigate nor to solicit what in Europe is deemed a fair and honourable satisfaction. Jealousy is a highly praiseworthy feeling when it is regulated with candour and justice, but allied with the vile cowardice of clandestine assassination, perpetrated by the hands of the party themselves, or through the medium of a hired agent, it is of all others the most wicked and hellish that can actuate the human mind.
That instances have occurred in the Brazil wherein both those modes have been practised, for the gratification of this passion, unjustly indulged, is but too true. An English gentleman, who has resided in the Brazil nearly forty years, informed me of a circumstance which he witnessed in this city, previously to the arrival of the royal family. A British officer, whose ship was taking in refreshments here, on passing through the Palace Square to a boat waiting to take him on board his vessel, suddenly received a facada by a person who drew a knife from under a capote, or cloak, (which the Brazilians are in the habit of wearing), concealed for the purpose, and which terminated his existence. It was said that this wretch had unjustly encouraged a feeling of jealousy against the British officer in regard to his wife, or some part of his family. Many of the Brazilians carry knives, hid under the sleeve of their capotes, which they throw and use with great dexterity. I was horror-struck to see at Rio the samples of an importation of knives from England, manufactured expressly for this purpose. In cases of quarrels amongst themselves they frequently use them, and quickly fold the capote around the left arm, which serves for a sort of shield.
Religious festas, as has been before stated, are occurring weekly, and amongst other funçons, as they are called, one annually takes place in the beautiful island of Paquata, one of the fairest and most picturesque in the bay. The English merchants are generally applied to for subscriptions for this festival, which they accord with their accustomed liberality. It is a delightful water excursion, which, added to the charms of the island itself, induce all the world to be of the party, and under the religious cloak of these occasions, females always appear in public. A worthy captain of an English merchantman was induced, upon one of those festivals, recently, to accompany a party in his own boat; and, the mode of refreshment being of the pic-nic kind, he came in contact with an adjoining group, including several females, to whom he was tempted to pay some attention, and thereby unconsciously excited the jealousy of a monster in the shape of a human being, who was of the party; and at the moment of his departure from the island, the boat having only proceeded some yards, a knife was thrown with such unerring aim at him that it produced his immediate death. That blacks, slaves, and others, are hired to commit such atrocities, by the payment of a small recompense, is a fact affirmed to be notorious; one authenticated instance will be sufficient to show that it is too correct. It is within a short period that the inhabitants of Pria Flemingo were much shocked at the discovery of a dead body upon that beach, decapitated, and in a state of nudity, so that no trace was left to find out who the unfortunate individual might be. This mysterious circumstance excited deep interest, and produced the offer of a reward for the detection of the perpetrator of so foul a deed. During the interval that the matter was involved in uncertainty, it was known to the friars of a monastery that one of their members was missing; but, it would appear, nothing was said by them regarding the lost brother, from the apprehension, probably, that something vicious or improper might arise out of the investigation, not quite honourable to their sect. At last, from a fear of detection, and a consciousness of guilt, the real culprit came to the determination of communicating the affair to the King, presuming upon the known mercy of his Majesty, which is so unbounded that few persons have suffered the punishment of death since he ascended the throne, although it is possible the royal forbearance may have frustrated, in some instances, the just expiation of guilt.[14] On this occasion also the criminal was not brought to justice, who, it is ascertained, was a fidalgo, whose jealousy was roused by the frequent visits the friar already mentioned paid to his wife, for the professed purpose of exacting the confessional duties of herself and family. It is not ascertained whether he had any real cause or not for the excitement of this passion; he unquestionably conceived he had, from the measures which he adopted of engaging two or three blacks to embrace an opportunity of murdering the friar, severing the head from the body, and divesting him of his sacerdotal robes. The discovery of the body was made under circumstances that did not involve those who found it in any difficulty; but it is possible that an innocent individual finding a dead person, unacquainted with the customs of the country, might be subjected to some inconvenience; and I had almost got into such a predicament myself. Not far from the Campo de St. Christovao, a beach leading to the point of Cajú affords an interesting view of the bay. I had just entered upon it one evening, in September, on horseback, when I was startled at the appearance of a dead man extended upon the sand, which the receding tide had just deposited there: he was very well dressed, in the habit of a sailor, and, the hair being of an auburn colour, I concluded he was the mate of an English ship. My endeavours to procure the aid of some Portuguese at a short distance were unavailing; no one would approach; and two or three persons in a cabriolet, who passed close by, regarded me and the dead sailor with indifference. I also addressed myself to the next person who came up on horseback; he dismounted, and I immediately found that he was an Englishman: he turned the body over, when the face appeared terribly mangled; he suggested that the property upon the person should be secured, which amounted to upwards of one pound in Portuguese money, a silver watch, a gold brooch, and other things, of which an account was taken and delivered to my care, with which I purposed going directly to the minister of police, and to request that the body might be taken care of, as it was impossible to get any one in the neighbourhood to take it in, or even come near the place. After paying two negroes to move the body from the beach, and place it under a hedge, I set off to carry my intentions into effect. On the road to the city I met an English gentleman, to whom I stated the matter; he requested me by no means to go to the police-office, as I should unquestionably be detained and lodged in prison till I proved that I was not the cause of the man’s death. This information deterred me from proceeding farther; but the idea that this unfortunate individual might have a wife, children, and friends at home, determined me to prepare an account of his person, with a view of posting it at the custom-house next morning, which might have led to an identification of his person. I previously called upon Mr. Harrison, a highly-respectable and long-resident merchant here, and he effectually convinced me of the hazardous consequences of a further interference in it. One gentleman said, “If you see a dead body, gallop off;” another, “If you perceive a dispute, from which one of the parties is likely to lose his life, fly, or you may be compelled to prove that you were not accessory to his death.” I immediately deposited the property at the British Consul’s office, being under some apprehension, but I never heard more of the matter. No doubt the body became a prey to the dogs and wild birds, and the friends of this poor man will most probably never hear of his fate.
Upon being detected in the commission of a crime, the perpetrator frequently flies to the altar of a contiguous church; where I once saw a criminal remain for several hours, being privileged from capture till an order was obtained from the bishop for his arrest. This, like many other observances of the Roman Catholics, is a practice derived from the Mosaic law.
The circumstances attending the execution of the criminal alluded to in the last note were rather singular, although common here upon such occasions. He was conducted on foot for a considerable distance through the streets, accompanied by padres, to the place of execution. There he was laid upon his back against the upper part of the ladder attached to the scaffold, and, on the rope being fastened round his neck, he was pushed off, with a negro upon his shoulders to accelerate his death. The head and hands were afterwards severed from the body and placed at each angle of the gallows, as represented in the plate.
The regular military force of Rio de Janeiro, and the immediately surrounding district, may be estimated at five thousand men, consisting of two regiments of infantry and one of cassadores from Portugal, some regiments of Brazilian infantry and cavalry, mulattoes and blacks, including the royal guard, exceedingly ill mounted and ineffective. The police of the city consists of a regiment of infantry and cavalry; this department appears to be well arranged. Although the principal plan for the protection of the Brazil is the militia law, to which all the inhabitants are liable, yet, in point of discipline they are very deficient, but in dress and equipment they reach mediocrity. None of the regular regiments are in a state of good discipline; those from Portugal are the best, but they are dissatisfied with the Brazilian service, and I was assured by one of their officers that they have relaxed very much in their duty. The mining districts and the other adjoining provinces are furnished with light cavalry, to which may be added the militia, who are usually called out for exercise on Sundays and holidays. The force at Monte Video amounts to eight thousand men, under General Le Cour, and the troops under General Rego (the Captain-General) at Pernambuco, are decidedly under the best discipline. Those two officers served with Lord Wellington in the peninsular campaign. The thirty-eighth British regiment proceeding to the Cape of Good Hope put into Rio de Janeiro for refreshment; the men being permitted occasionally to go on shore were soon recognised by one of the regiments from Portugal as their companions in war. The salutations which occurred between them induced the King to make some inquiries respecting this regiment, when he expressed his desire to see them reviewed, which the commanding officer acceded to. Boats were furnished to convey them up the bay to the Campo of St. Christovao, where they went through their evolutions with such precision that the royal family, and nearly the whole population of Rio and its vicinity, assembled upon the spot, were much gratified, and spoke highly of their fine military appearance.