We returned from our walk in sufficient time to set out by the treckschuyt for Rotterdam, which is thirteen miles distant from the Hague. My companion was much pleased with the palaces and walks about this place, which he thought must be a delightful residence.
After travelling about an hour and a quarter, we reached Delft, where we landed, and traversed the city to another barge on the opposite side of it. Delft is a fine clean city, with canals running through the streets, and rows of trees on each side of them. In one of the churches are deposited the remains of William the First of Nassau, prince of Orange, who, at the instigation of Philip the Second, was assassinated at this place. Delft is also famous as the birth-place of Hugo Grotius, the immortal author of a Treatise on the Truth of the Christian Religion, as well as of many other works of high estimation; and every one has heard of its manufactory of earthenware, termed Delft China.
From Delft, we proceeded in a very large and handsome barge to Rotterdam. At four o’clock we passed Schiedam, leaving it a mile on our right, and at five arrived at Rotterdam. It happened to be the day of a fair, and we had to traverse a great part of the city, through the midst of a mass of people, before we reached the bath-house hotel, to which we had been recommended. This house was full of company, but they found us accommodations in a detached building in the garden.
On making inquiries respecting the conveyances to Antwerp, I found there were two every day, one by Breda, the other by Bergen-op-Zoom; I preferred the latter, and secured my place for twenty-five francs.
On entering the common sitting-room of our hotel, I almost fancied myself transported into an English boarding-house, the party present being all countrymen or Americans. We retired early to our bed-room, and had the mortification to find the sheets wringing wet. This is not unfrequently the case in Holland, where the table linen and napkins are very commonly sent in perfectly damp; it is no doubt attributable to the humid state of the atmosphere on the one hand, and the expense of fuel to dry with on the other. We summoned the chamber-maid, waiter, and master of the inn in succession, who all endeavoured to convince us that they were perfectly dry. We had no alternative but to make the best use we could of the warming-pan; and it is fortunate that we sustained no injury.
My stay at Rotterdam was too brief to enable me to say much about the city. It is a place of considerable commercial importance, and, in some respects, has advantages over Amsterdam; as the merchant vessels have only to come fifteen miles up a fine river, and are able to discharge their cargoes at the very doors of the warehouses. I was informed, that it enjoys a more extended trade than either Amsterdam or Antwerp. It is also considered the handsomest city in Holland, and obtains no little renown from having been the birth-place of the celebrated Erasmus, whose statue in bronze, ornaments the city.
On Wednesday, the 22nd of August, I left Rotterdam for Antwerp, at five in the morning. We were conveyed, in a temporary carriage, to the banks of a river, which we crossed to the island of Ysselmond, where the regular diligence was awaiting our arrival. After traversing this island, we embarked on a flying bridge, and were transported across the Maese to the island of Voorn; from the opposite side of which we crossed an arm of the sea, named Holland’s Diep, to Williamstadt, a strong fortified town, built by the unfortunate William before mentioned, as having been assassinated at Delft. This place held out successfully against the French in 1793. After leaving Williamstadt, we crossed a fourth, and then a fifth river, when we arrived at Steenbergen; a small, but strongly fortified town, surrounded by double walls and ditches, and distant seven miles from Bergen-op-Zoom. We reached the latter place at two o’clock for dinner. This town is only noted for its strong fortifications, being defended by double walls, with immense ditches, and confirmed by extensive outworks. I could not avoid a melancholy retrospection of the unfortunate attack made upon this place, by my brave countrymen in the late war. We recommenced our journey at three o’clock, and soon afterwards entered the Netherlands, when the road became so sandy and heavy, that we could not proceed at a greater rate than a foot’s pace; when, however, we arrived within three miles of Antwerp, it changed into a pavê, which continued until we reached that town at half after eight in the evening; when I accompanied an English gentleman, Mr. S⸺, who had travelled with us all day, to the Hotel d’Angleterre.
As I only rested thirty-six hours in this fine and extensive city, it would be presumptuous to attempt a description of it. The beauty of the town, cathedral, and various churches, and the richness of its cabinets of paintings, and the fine arts, are well known. An academy of painting has lately been formed, or rather re-established here, under the title of Rueben’s school.
At the table d’hôte, which was crowded with people of various nations, I was fortunately placed near one of my countrymen, who, hearing that I had lately arrived from Italy, entered into conversation with me respecting some friends, and in particular a cousin of his, whom I had known at Naples; he afterwards contributed to make the remainder of the day pass away pleasantly.
He informed me, that Antwerp was not unlikely to regain a considerable degree of its former commercial importance. It was already vying with Rotterdam, and was expected to surpass it as a trading town, in consequence of a law having passed to lower the transit duties, and which was to take effect in January 1822.