Before retiring early to-bed, I secured my place in the diligence to Brussels, for the following morning; at which place I proposed to rest for some time, after so long a series of travelling; during which, in the course of three months, I had never slept more than four nights in the same bed; and farther, I was induced to select this place, for my repose, as I hoped to meet with some old friends there.
We commenced our journey at seven o’clock; about ten we stopped to change horses at Mechlin, the city so celebrated for its manufacture of fine lace of that name. The cathedral here is said to be a very grand structure and well worth seeing. About noon, we arrived at Brussels, after a journey of twenty-five miles from Antwerp.
CHAP. XXXII.
BRUSSELS, GHENT, OSTEND, AND RETURN TO ENGLAND.
On the recommendation of M. G. Mignon, the French gentleman with whom I had travelled from Berne to Cologne, and who had arrived in Brussels the day before myself, I fixed my residence at the Hotel de la Paix, Rue Violet.
The great anxiety of various countries to become the masters of this city, may alone be regarded as a strong indication of its importance. It is extensive, handsomely built in an eligible situation, and its inhabitants regarded as a polished people; their politeness towards the English visitors, has, however, been latterly no little tempered by political or commercial jealousy, arising from our being able to furnish better and cheaper commodities than they can manufacture; while, at the same time, they have been subjected to heavy imposts, and deprived of the advantage of exchanging their productions for French wines and goods. They do not hesitate to express their preference of the French government, under which they had been so long subjected, and even the wish to return to it; indeed their habits and characters assimilate more with the French than the Dutch, with whom they are now connected.
The manufactories of carpets, lace, &c. carried on at this place, are well known; few of the former are, however, actually the productions of this city, but made in a number of the towns around, particularly Tournay; they are conveyed, however, into the merchants’ stores at this place, and then come out as real Brussels carpets.
Brussels appears to have had a particular partiality for the number seven; hence there were formerly seven public fountains; seven principal streets that centre in the great market-place; seven parish churches; seven principal noble families; and seven gates of Doric architecture.
There is a canal encircling the town, and forming it into a kind of island, planted with trees, and which runs to Willibrook, a village on the Scheldt, at the distance of fifteen miles; along the banks of this canal lies an excellent road, shaded with four rows of trees on each side, upon which the ladies of Brussels take the air in their carriages. The treckschuyts pass by this canal from Brussels to Antwerp, twice every day.
The great market-place is one of the most beautiful squares in Europe. One side is occupied by the Stadt-house. The states of Brabant used formerly to meet in a palace in this square, which was most richly adorned. In three large rooms the resignation of his empire, by Charles the Fifth, is wrought in tapestry. The other rooms, which belonged to this august assembly, were embellished with fine original paintings. In this square are also situated the halls of the various trading companies of Brussels, the fronts of which are adorned with exquisite sculpture and workmanship.