On the 26th, Lieut. B⸺ and myself, accompanied Count K⸺ on board the Austrian flagship, lying off this port. This vessel, named the Austria, was a frigate of forty-four guns, built by the French at Venice, and afterwards taken possession of by the Austrians. We found an English sailor on board, who had entered from one of our merchantmen in the Mediterranean, and who gave us no very favourable account of the naval tactics of the Austrians. The officers appeared to want that smartness which we are accustomed to in a British man-of-war; that is, there was a heavy manner about them. We were treated, however, with civility, although we did expect more attention, having been introduced as British naval officers.
On the 29th, one of the two Austrian frigates lying here, with two Neapolitan frigates, having under convoy about forty smaller vessels, with eight thousand Austrian troops on board, sailed for Palermo. My friends were highly delighted with this spectacle.
Having heard much of the island of Ischia, distant twenty-four miles from Naples, I was induced to cross over to it, in company with Mr. J. O⸺, an English gentleman, who was purposing to spend some time there, on account of his health. We had intended setting off some days before, but the Sirocco wind prevented us, being attended by a heavy swell setting into the bay, so that no boat would venture out. We left Naples at six o’clock in the morning of the 30th of May, and after passing by the islands of Nicida and Prochyta, on the former of which stands the Lazaretto, and on the latter one of the king’s palaces, we landed about half after eleven, at the village of Ischia. We were immediately surrounded by a number of fellows having asses with them, which they, with much insolence, urged us to hire. Mr. O⸺ took one for his little nephew whom he had brought with him, and setting him forward, we followed on foot until we arrived at Sentinella, a distance of three or four miles. We were pursued, however, for a considerable time by a drove of these donkey men, in expectation that we might hire their animals; but at length, finding themselves disappointed, they gradually gave up the point, hooting and holloing after us as they departed.
On laying my hand on one of these asses, I was astonished at the silkiness of its skin; but I believe the hair of all animals is proportionately softer in southern climates, probably in consequence of the superficial pores being more open. I have heard, and it appears probable, that the nerves of the cuticle, as of the finger, are more sensible in warm latitudes; and that this is the reason why the silks, and other fine works, in such countries, are of more delicate texture, than what are manufactured elsewhere.
This island, formerly known by the names of Enaria and Pithecusa, is exceedingly fertile, rich, and populous, the whole of it is conceived to be of volcanic origin; indeed it was formerly famous for its frequent eruptions, although they have now entirely ceased. The town of Ischia, from whence it derives its present name, is situated in a small bay, which is protected by a castle, built on a rock projecting into the sea, and separated from the main island by a ridge of sand.
Sentinella is a single house, standing on a rock which overhangs the sea; it belongs to a public notary, who receives visitors that come to the island for the benefit of its baths, and who are accommodated with board and lodging at the rate of a dollar per day; as a situation, it is far preferable to the adjoining village of Lucio, which is a shabby place, standing low on the shore, and consequently excessively hot, and infested by mosquitoes; whereas, at Sentinella, there is a fine sea breeze by day, and fresh air from the mountains at night. The proprietor has several daughters, agreeable young women, who study the comforts of their visitors; he has, besides, a brother, a medical man, residing in the village. In the evening, the young ladies entertained us with music and dancing.
The baths are situated at the village. There are two springs, one termed Aqua del occhio, from which the baths are supplied; the other is called the Aqua Caponi; I drank a couple of tumblers full of the latter, the taste of which reminded me of a weak solution of Cheltenham salts.
After returning from the baths, we rested quietly for the remainder of the day, amusing ourselves with reading; in the evening, we walked to a village named Piazza, and on our return, were again entertained with music and dancing.
On the following morning, I took leave of Sentinella, where I should have felt happy to have prolonged my stay, in order to have enjoyed more of the society of Mr. O⸺, whom I left behind me. The pursuits of this gentleman, were much in unison with my own; that is, he occupied his time with an alternation of exercise and reading, the one so condusive to health, the other to happiness; nor were these pursuits directed to the mere attainment of vacant pleasure, but to the more satisfactory acquisition of useful information; and Horace says,