“Omne tulit punctum qui miscuit utile dulci.”
At ten o’clock I embarked for Naples, which, however, we did not reach before six in the evening, for we had light or contrary winds throughout the day, and, notwithstanding the use of our oars, made but slow progress.
On the following day a fine morning was succeeded, about noon, by a cloudy atmosphere, and in returning from the custom-house, where I had accompanied a gentleman, we were overtaken by a dreadful thunderstorm, attended by torrents of rain. We succeeded, however, in gaining shelter. On this occasion, I missed my pocket handkerchief, and whether it had been filched away by the rude wind, or some of the light-fingered gentry, with whom this city abounds, it is impossible for me to say, although I am inclined to suspect the latter. It was, however, the only loss of the kind I sustained during my journey.
Sunday, June 3d, Mr. C⸺ and myself hired a curriculo or gig, and drove to Capo di Monte, to visit Mr. and Mrs. M⸺. This is a most delightful summer residence, standing on very elevated ground, although only two miles distant from the city. The king has a palace here, as he has in almost every fine situation; in short, the royal residences are so numerous, that one can scarce wonder at the heavy income-tax of twenty-five per cent. as well as the immense duties, imposed on his subjects.
CHAP. XX.
NAPLES.—POMPEII.
Monday, June 4th, promising to be favourable for my intention of visiting the remains of Pompeii, distant about fourteen miles from Naples, my friend C⸺, and myself, engaged a curriculo to take us over to that spot; for this conveyance, we paid only twelve carlines, equal to about four shillings; but when it is recollected, that my driver could support himself and his horse through the day, for one-eighth part of that sum, the compensation ceases to be a contemptible one.
We left Naples a little before six, and after resting for breakfast at Torre del Annunciata, arrived at Pompeii about nine o’clock. Our road lay through rich vineyards, and over various beds of lava, the remains of different eruptions from Mount Vesuvius. In 1794, one town through which we passed, Torre del Greco, was destroyed by one of these awful visitations, and yet such is the attachment of the infatuated people to this situation, that a new one has arisen on the self-same spot.
We entered the suburbs of Pompeii, by the villa of the Roman, whose skeleton was found in the garden, with a purse of gold in his hand, with which he appears to have been endeavouring to escape, when arrested by the overwhelming shower of ashes. After passing these suburbs, in which we noticed a number of monuments, and receptacles for the ashes of the dead, we entered under an ancient gateway into the city itself. It is not easy to describe the sensations which rushed upon my soul, on finding myself within this monumental city, or to give that lucid description which it requires; I shall therefore not apologize for borrowing an account, which corresponds with the ideas I was personally led to form of it. I shall, however, premise, that the order of our exploration, varied from the one usually adopted by the Cicerones, who take you first to the amphitheatre; on the contrary, we commenced with those points, which strangers generally finish with, leaving the theatres and amphitheatre for the last objects of research, and thus, as it were, proceeding from small things to great ones.