We quitted our hospitable friends, (who appeared to be almost more grateful for our visit than we for their kindness), and passed along the plain. Mount Ararat bore N. 40 E. and extended itself completely to our view. Its N. W. ascent is not so rapid as its S. E. and I should conceive that in this quarter it might be possible to ascend it. In six hours and a half, after leaving our last encampment, we reached Diadin. It is a large village with a fort and towers; under which, in a deep channel of perpendicular rock, runs the eastern Euphrates, there a shallow stream about twenty feet in breadth. It rises about four agatch or twelve miles from Diadin, on a bearing of S. 50 W. by the direction of a man’s hand; and in the country is called the Frat; the name assumed at Arz-roum, by the Western stream.
At Diadin we were not permitted to go near their miserable castle. The houses of the place are built of mud and stones, and the rooms are calculated to lodge the animals as well as the family. A small compartment only is reserved for the master; and in general the rest of the space is left for his cattle. We did not, indeed, enter their habitations, for every door was shut against us; and when, by great management, we had secured shelter for ourselves, our people, and our cattle, we found equal difficulty in procuring food. Abdulla Pacha, a rebel Courd, with whom Ibrahim Pacha was at open war, had in fact carried away all the flocks, and destroyed all the crops of this village. We could not therefore expect an easy supply of corn for our horses; but after much intreaty a little was produced, for which indeed we paid an amazing price. A piece of barley bread was delivered to each man; and the masters, by a very marked favour, were supplied with a mess of eggs and a basin of yaourt.
The houses for the Conaks or reception of strangers, here as in all other places in Turkey were regularly defined; but when the Mirza and I were entering that appropriated to ourselves, we were received at the door by a woman, who, with her face totally uncovered, boldly bad defiance to the Conak-chee, and (with the most threatening looks, and with all the volubility of her sex,) swore that nobody should enter her dwelling. However, by a little negociation we pacified our hostess, and were at length admitted into her stable, where we spread our carpets and composed ourselves to sleep. The women here barely cover their faces; and, as we afterwards learnt, are notorious for depravity: they appear very healthy. The men are as wild as savages, and seem to be under no law. Independently of their own immediate distresses, one of the reasons for their inhospitality to Persians is very natural; several Embassadors had been sent to Constantinople, and since that time every traveller, who had two or three attendants, assumed the same dignity. The discovery of the fraud has necessarily roused the caution of the Turks.
10th. We were nine hours on the road to Youngali, called nine agatch, and which I calculated at thirty-two miles on a bearing of N. 65 W. The Euphrates accompanied us all the way through a country of grass, but of little cultivation. Four miles after leaving Diadin we passed the village of Jugan, about a mile and a half on our left: then four miles further, still on the left and on the other bank of the Euphrates, Utch Klissé. Here a high and snow-covered mountain called Kussé Dagh appears in view; and (extending to the S. and W.) the range of Ala-Dagh. In the village is an Armenian Church, a very respectable looking building, much resembling an European structure. It has two wings with a shelving roof, and is covered by a small dome built of stone, apparently not in much decay.
At the termination of that branch of the mountain near which Utch Klissé stands, there is a stone bridge thrown over the Euphrates. We continued by the bank of the river, which winds from E. to W. creating verdure on each side as it flows. We passed through a village now in ruins called Alakou; and on the slope of the hill (three miles on the left of the road) that of Comoulja; another called Belasou, is close on the banks of the river; and, about eight miles further, having passed the miserable huts at Cadi Kieu, we reached after a very sultry ride, our Conak at Youngali. All these villages are in the Mahalé of Alashgerd.
When we had been about an hour on our road, I missed a small carpet from my baggage, and sent back therefore my servant to reclaim it from our host at Diadin. From the looks which he cast at our goods, I had frequently suspected his honesty, but I might have spared my suspicions and my trouble; for I received nothing but oaths. Near to Utch Klissé, we met the battering train of Ibrahim Pacha, which consisted of two field pieces, returning from the siege of Turpa Caléh, the castle of Timur Beg, who had revolted from his authority. We learned that after a siege of five months, in which the Pacha had fired his guns one hundred and fifty times at the town and castle, he had succeeded in killing one fowl and one dog.
Ibrahim Pacha, who was at another village three miles from Youngali, sent his Haznadar or treasurer to escort us to our lodging. The misery here was even greater than that of the preceding day. No corn for our horses, nor even grass without hard blows. The whole of the country was in a state of absolute devastation from the incursions of the Courds; and our course presented nothing but difficulties, for Ibrahim Pacha was at war with all the country round. He professed indeed to respect the firman of Abbas Mirza, and when we sent him that with which we had been furnished, he immediately carried it to his head, saying that he was the Princes servant in all things; and that there was nothing which he would not willingly do to serve him. We never fared worse, however, than at this village. The people that surrounded us bore the looks of savages, and their general behaviour corresponded with their appearance.
To the South of Youngali, as I was told at the place, lies Van; and to the S. W. the large Mahalé of Kensus.
11th. We left Youngali, dissatisfied with our host: the Persians indeed were miserable with the scanty hospitality which they received at his village. When we were left by the two officers, who escorted us to their master’s frontier, we were advised not to go near Turpa Caléh, as we should undoubtedly be molested. Yet the situation, in which this war of the rival chiefs had placed us, was so difficult, that we incurred equal hazard either in passing the castle of Timur Beg, without offering our respects, or in venturing near it after coming from the domains of his enemy. We determined therefore to state our story simply, and throw ourselves on his hospitality. We crossed a most beautiful plain covered with villages, and watered by numerous streams. We forded three considerable torrents, which poured from the N. mountains, and, swoln by the melting snows, threw themselves into the Euphrates, which was flowing at the Southern extremity of the plain from E. to W. Three miles from Youngali we came to Cara-Klissé, a large village peopled by Courds and Armenians; and then made a circuit to the N. to avoid a swampy road in the centre of the plain. We passed through several villages, the inhabitants of which seeing the numbers of our company mistook us for one of the fighting parties, and crowded on the tops of their houses at our approach. Of these places, the principal were named Datté Tapé, Kesick, and Arnat.
Turpa Caléh is situated N. 60 W. from Youngali, on a distance of about fifteen miles or four hours. It is a larger place than any that we had seen since Khoi. The town is scattered on the slope of a conical hill, on the top of which is a castle. This the Turks deem impregnable, and with justice, if the failure of the late siege be a criterion, though the fort seems in every part accessible to cannon. The high mountain of Kussé Dagh overlooks the town and attracts continual clouds over it. We proceeded warily; and, about a mile before we reached the place, halted and sent forwards a man to reconnoitre the appearance and dispositions of the people, and to report on the expediency of our advance. He returned with the intelligence that we had nothing to fear; and we directed our course therefore to the Conac or dwelling of the Kiayah, the chief officer of Timur Beg. Here we dismounted, and were introduced immediately into a dark room, where twenty torpid Turks were indulging themselves in the quiet delights of smoking. The Kiayah sat in the corner, but rose when the Mirza entered; and, having said the usual “Khosh gueldin” (you are welcome,) closed his lips and left his guest to display the compliments and insinuative flattery so natural to his nation. The loquaciousness and vivacity of the Persian formed an inimitable contrast with the dull and heavy laconism of the Turk.