When we had smoked and drunk coffee, a man came to inform us that Timur Beg was ready to receive us. The Mirza and I immediately proceeded, leaving the rest of our party with the Kiayah. We ascended to the castle by a steep and difficult path, and entered it by a large iron door. We were introduced into a spacious room at the summit. The Chief (attended by all his principal warriors gravely seated around) occupied a window commanding an extensive view of the country over which we had travelled, and more particularly the district of his rival, the Pacha. When we also were seated, and the usual compliments had passed, the Mirza begun a prepared speech unfolding our condition, announcing that we threw ourselves at his mercy, asking the rights of hospitality from him, and intermixing throughout some very severe invective against his enemy the Pacha. The mode succeeded: and Timur Beg instantly replied, that we had nothing to fear; that under his protection we were safe; that our necessities should be supplied, and that his officers should receive orders to treat us with distinction and kindness at a neighbouring village; for he hoped, as the only favour that he required of us, that we would not sojourn in his castle for that night.
When these preliminaries were settled, I had time to observe that there was much to admire in our host. He was about forty years of age, with a singularly open and manly countenance, and with manners the most graceful and dignified. He related his own history and his differences with Ibrahim Pacha in language so simple, yet so expressive, that we acquired a deep interest in his fate; particularly, when he expatiated on the Pacha’s tyranny and inordinate rapaciousness, and on the misery in which his exactions had involved all the peasantry of the district. During the course however of his conversation with the Mirza, I remarked one of his observations which was very characteristic of a semi-barbarous society. He inquired who I was? and being informed that I was of the Sect of Isau (Jesus), or, in other words, a Christian, he continued (with a look of pity, having observed that I had refused a pipe), “These fellows, I hear, have neither pipes nor tobacco in their country: haivan dar, they are beasts:” as if to say, assuming that we did not possess the knowledge or the means of their favourite enjoyment, “how far inferior to us must those be who cannot smoke.”
Our host kept strictly to his word: we were sent forwards four miles further to the promised village of Molah Suleiman, escorted by two of his officers; and supplied with all that the place could afford, a sheep, fowls, and rice for ourselves, and corn for our horses.
12th. We passed over a mountainous tract of country from Molah Suleiman to Deli-baba, a distance which we travelled in ten hours, and which I reckoned at thirty-five miles, on a bearing of N. 30 W. as well as the intricacies of the turns would permit me to observe. Before we entered the mountains, (when we had travelled about three miles, and just above the little village of Zadiéh,) I had the parting view of Mount Ararat, which bore from us N. 80 E. We were told that the road was much infested by the Courds, particularly at a pass in the mountains called Gerdina, and we placed ourselves therefore in a posture of defence. But we traversed the whole extent without seeing a human being, till we reached Dahar, a village of Courds in the mountains twenty miles from Molah Suleiman. We then proceeded winding in a variety of directions, with a scorching sun over our heads, to the entrance of a pass which, through two stupendous rocks, leads into the plain of Deli-baba. This pass might be made an admirable military position, and in its present state is a most picturesque object. A stream from the mountains runs through it: on the left is a rock three hundred feet perpendicular, and on the other side is another of less height, but pierced with three holes, as if it were by the hand of man.
On entering the plain we saw numbers of peasants with their arabahs or carts. They told us they had fled from their village in the fear of Abdulla Aga, who, from his station near Erivan, makes predatory excursions all over the country. They added that Deli-baba was totally depopulated; however we did not believe them, and proceeded. We found indeed a very bad reception, for the inhabitants mistook us for enemies, collected together at our approach, refused us admittance, and fired several muskets at us. At length the chief of the village came out to meet us, and we agreed to establish ourselves at a distance, feed our cattle, and depart. The fear of Abdulla Aga created such a distrust, that we were avoided by every one whom we met; and even when any permitted us to approach, all our assurances were insufficient to inspire them with confidence. Although we offered great prices for the necessaries of our supply, the people would hardly sell a single article; and the few pieces of bread and eggs which formed our meal at Deli-baba were not procured without the greatest difficulty.
Although the country is in a terrible state of disturbance, caravans travel freely on the road. We met a large one which had been eight days from Arz-roum. Our mule-driver happened to kill a serpent; he cut it immediately in two pieces, and threw the parts on different sides, saying, “It is a lucky sign, our enemies will not overcome us.”
The soil over which we passed was admirably rich, and the most delightful spring reigned on the tops of the mountains, where we culled nosegays of a thousand hues; yet the snow lay in several places, and covered the fetlocks of our horses, while close to it rose every flower.
13th. We quitted the village of Deli-baba early in the morning, having passed a night full of anxiety and watchfulness in the open fields; as we were told that we were not safe, and might probably be attacked, though nothing, thank God, disturbed us. We proceeded on a bearing of West to Amra Kieu, a village prettily situated at the utmost extremity of a plain, and surrounded by some trees, (in our later course a very scarce object) the willow and the plane. We crossed a beautiful country cultivated in most parts, and considering the extreme misery of the inhabitants themselves, looking very prosperous. The spring was here in its first burst, and the corn was scarcely a span high: the fields were no longer watered by dikes as in Persia, for the nature of the seasons and of the country render unnecessary any artificial means of irrigation. The hills to the Northward of the plain, through which we passed, rise in a gentle acclivity, and to our view displayed habitations and culture; but as we met no person on the road, I could not learn the names of the villages in various parts. At two hours, (seven miles,) from Deli-baba, and about a mile from the road, is Batman Kieu, situated in the bosom of a valley delightfully watered and cultivated. The houses of Amra Kieu, our resting place, are built with the fir tree, and their roofs are formed by rafters of wood, geometrically placed, which are afterwards covered with earth, and constitute a strong dome. This is a better construction than any that we had lately observed. Small two-wheeled carts, to which oxen are yoked, are used here by the peasantry. The sheep are very fine, with large tails and good wool.
14th. We went from Amra Kieu, due West towards Alwar, ten miles. Three miles after quitting Amra Kieu, we came to the banks of the Araxes; which enters the plain from the mountains near Yaghan, a large village situated about three miles from the road. The stream flows here from N. 65 E. to S. 30 W. It takes its rise in the Mahalé of Khunus; and where it issues from the ground is called Bin Gieul, or a thousand springs. In its course it closely follows the mountains which we had left at the extremity of the plain. Little irrigation is drawn from it through the neighbouring territory. We crossed it over a very well-built stone bridge of seven arches; by the measurement of which the river was about one hundred and sixty paces in breadth. Just at this point a stream flows into it from the Westward, taking its course close to Hassan Caléh. Immediately on passing the bridge we came to a village called Kupré Kieu, and then continued on a fine road, and through a delightful plain strewed with villages, distant in general two or three miles from each other. The principal of these are Arsunjéh, on the left, and Gumec and Miagen, on the right of the road. All the plain was well cultivated; and the peasants were here sowing their corn. We passed by Hassan Caléh, a large town situated around a hill; on the summit is an old fortification, the curious walls of which are chequered with the embrasures of former times. We crossed the stream by the town, over a bridge of two arches. Close to the bridge is a bath built over a spring, the heat of which is almost that of scalding water: yet when we looked in, several men were up to their chins in it. The basin is about thirty feet in diameter, and is enclosed by an old structure. Several other springs of the same temperature adjoin it.
We had procured a man from the Governor (Cazi) of Hassan Caléh, to conduct us to Alwar, but the Aga of that place positively refused to admit us or to lodge us, and added in direct terms that he did not care for Cazi, Pacha, or any one else, and that we might go any where we chose; if at least we did not disturb Him. After vollies of abuse on both sides, we were content as before to take up our quarters in the open fields, under the shade of a tree, that luckily was situated near the village, and saved us from an ardent sun. Here we saw geese for the first time.