There is a tannery connected with, or adjacent to, this slaughtering establishment, and the large number of hides are thus turned immediately into the vats of the tanner. This place, called the “Cortuma de Mello e Sonza e Campo,” is represented as being a very fine combination of appliances for treating the hides in all the different stages of tanning, using the bark and leaves of native trees for the supply of ooze, by which the leather is tanned.
Though I could not stop to examine this tannery to-day, I was delayed opposite the gate of the slaughter-house, contrary to my wishes, for the driver of the diligence to blow up passengers for the return trip to the city, and received the above general report in regard to the same.
The conductor of this diligence used a brass horn to give the signal for departure and stopping, and when approaching a point where persons were expected, he blew continuously until the spot was reached; or if there was not a full cargo present, the bugle was used vigorously, as in this place, to hurry up all who might desire to take seats. Some of these omnibuses are fully entitled to the name, as they carry everybody with their families, being suited to the accommodation of forty persons at one time. I took a seat upon the outside, where I could see the various points of interest presented by the slopes of the mountain side and the improvements on the plain below.
Thursday, September 21, 1865.
Having completed my personal arrangements for setting out this morning to São Paulo, a very puzzling difficulty arose, by the failure to get my papers from the Minister of Agriculture, and, for a time, I thought of postponing the trip. It occurred to me, however, that the letters could be forwarded by mail, and as my passage was secured for this steamer, I took a row-boat, and paying one dollar for myself and baggage, was soon aboard of the Santa Maria steamer.
We remained at the anchorage nearly two hours after the time appointed for leaving, and upon stopping at the police station for examination of papers, I was pleased to find my friend Job, who had been sent by Mr. Davis, with the package of letters and documents from the Minister of Agriculture. The boatmen took advantage of this express service to charge two dollars and a half for bringing Job down, which, however, I paid very cheerfully, as the papers were very important to accompany me on arrival at the city of São Paulo.
My passport was examined by the police officer and returned to me, whereupon I secured my berth, and made myself quiet for the voyage to Santos.
The Santa Maria is a steam packet with two masts arranged for sails, and having side-wheels, with her aft deck covered by an awning, so as to make this position very pleasant for passengers. Her eating-saloon is large and airy upon the first floor, and the apartment, with spacious state-rooms, is below this, and has large ports by which the ventilation is effected very satisfactorily. Though each of the state-rooms has four berths, I, fortunately, had an entire state-room, which, rendered my passage very pleasant. My impressions of the general construction of this steamer, and her adaptation to the accommodation of passengers as well as freight, are decidedly favorable to the progress of Brazil in the art of building vessels. Though her engines are of English make, I am informed that all the work of constructing this steamer was done in Rio de Janeiro; and she is not only substantial and well-modelled, but finished in all her parts with good taste.
The management of those in charge of the Santa Maria looks to the cleanliness and neatness of every thing, and the bedding was found in excellent condition, while the fare was of good quality and very well prepared. All the regime of the packet was satisfactory to me, and yet there are some proceedings at the table which seem unnecessary, and especially the change of plates for each different article that is eaten. Those who desire several things upon a plate at the same time, indulge their taste of course; and as variety is the spice of life with me, I paid but little attention to the rule observed by most of the Brazilians, in making frequent changes of plates at breakfast as well as at dinner.
The demonstrative character of this people is strikingly illustrated at their meals, as each man calls out for any thing not within his reach, or even rises to his feet and reaches over the table for what is wanted by himself, or another, at a distant part of the table. Every one is expected to supply himself as far as practicable.