I was furnished with a letter by Mr. Wright to an uncle of his wife; Senor João Bernardino V’ra Barboza, at São Pedro, in this province. He has lands to dispose of himself, and will be able to refer me to others having large estates that may be for sale.
Upon parting with my newly-acquired friend, Mr. Wright, whose hospitality I enjoyed, he insisted that, on my return, I would make his house my home, in true southern style. Appreciating the spirit of his invitation, I of course accepted it.
Mr. Wright tells me that he has received some account of the lands and water facilities at a small town upon the coast, called Conceicão, which makes him suppose that it might be a matter of interest for me to visit it. When I return to Santos, he thinks that he can accompany me to see this place, and advises me not to make any definite arrangement elsewhere, until I examine that locality.
Santos has a good harbor, and sufficient depth of water for vessels of any magnitude. It is located upon an extended plane, which admits of indefinite appropriations for buildings; and, with a full supply of excellent drinking water, from the adjacent elevated grounds, there are presented favorable conditions for a larger city at no distant day. The railroad line already connecting this city with the city of São Paulo, and in process of completion farther into the interior, will facilitate very much the transportation of products to this point; which will afford a market, or be the medium of communication with Rio de Janeiro. Should the emigrants from the United States locate in the province of São Paulo, this city, being the principal seaport, will become the centre of trade, and must grow rapidly in all that pertains to business.
After my voyage through the country is completed, I may give my attention to the examination of some of the improvements of this city, which cannot be noticed now.
In this place, I may remark, that any extended travel in Brazil is styled a voyage, though it be entirely upon land. In the account of the tour upon horseback, made by the Emperor recently, across the province of Rio Grande, to the seat of war, it was spoken of in the Anglo-Brazilian Times as voyaging through the country.
Saturday, September 23, 1865.
Having enjoyed a comfortable night’s rest at the Hotel Millen, I awoke at the early hour of 5 o’clock A. M. with the sound of a pelting rain and howling wind. This precluded the thought of making an early move, as had been anticipated; but I got a cup of coffee, and held myself in readiness for any notice from the diligence. When the weather gave some promise of improvement I ventured out, and learned from the man having charge of transportation that it would be impracticable to take a boat to the foot of the serra as he had expected, but that horses would be provided and our baggage could be forwarded in carts. I ordered breakfast in my best Portuguese vocabulary, and got it somewhat in advance of the regular hour.
All things being in readiness, we set out about 9 o’clock A. M. for the diligence station, which was some eight miles distant, at the foot of the serra. Senor Barros and myself were on horseback, while his brother-in-law, Dom Barros, and sister were in a chaise with two horses, the extra animal being attached by a swingle-tree at one side of the shafts. The driver was seated flat in the foot of the chaise, with his legs out at one side, and urged his team forward at a good speed over the rough turnpikes. We reached our destination about 11 o’clock A. M., and at this point we entered a substantial vehicle, styled here a diligencia, intended for seating eight persons. There being but four of us, and a small boy besides, we had ample room, and sufficient space for the bandboxes also.
At the outset, seven horses were attached to the diligence, and a driver on foot took charge of those in front, while one on the box drove the four others that constituted the regular team. On the lesser slopes, and the occasional level portions of the road, we went at a sweeping trot; yet this pedestrian driver ran along with us at great apparent ease until we reached the ridge of the serra, making a distance of six miles. He then detached his three horses, which had been driven abreast in front, and took them back to the station, while we proceeded with the four-horse team upon a finely-gravelled road at a rapid gait.