Hunting a home in Brazil

by James McFadden Gaston

We approached the harbor of Santos shortly after ten o’clock A. M., and the low flat land upon our left, forming a part of the large island upon which the city stands, was in striking contrast to the towering hills upon our right hand.

The fort, which is intended to guard the entrance to the harbor, is upon the mainland on the right as we approach. It is a rude stone work of small dimensions, with guns of small calibre in barbette, which would not prove effective in arresting a vessel of war that might attempt to move upon the city. This antiquated-looking fort was evidently constructed prior to the advance in fortifications, which has been made in the last quarter of a century. It is not such a work as should be relied upon by a nation actually at war with a power which has shown much reckless daring and considerable enterprise. All are aware that a vessel of the Brazilian government was captured by the Paraguayans, in the very commencement of hostilities, and that they have had armed vessels of war upon the waters, which might leave the immediate scene of operations, and make an attack at other more vulnerable points. It is to be hoped, however, that the determined policy of the Emperor will soon bring this war with Paraguay to a successful close.

Upon landing at Santos, I found a city that resembled in many respects the business portion of Rio, and having in the store-rooms large supplies of coffee and cotton. The streets are somewhat wider than those of Rio, but there is less activity in every department of business, and all the people looked as if there was plenty of time to accomplish whatever they had to do. Some of the buildings near the wharf have quite an antiquated appearance, and are doubtless remnants of the early settlement of this place, which was among the first of the country. Near this city is the famous São Vicente, where Martino Affonso founded the first colony that landed from Portugal, in 1532; but the port has become obstructed by sand, and it remains an insignificant village.

Having a letter from Dr. Henry C. Bosworth to Mr. W. T. Wright, of Santos, I proceeded to his business house, where he received me with respectful cordiality, and kindly invited me to his residence. I informed him of my expectation to proceed at an early hour next morning, and that it would be preferable to retain my quarters at the Hotel de Millen, where my baggage was ordered to be left. His invitation to take dinner, and make the acquaintance of his family, being accepted, he despatched a young man to see that my trunk reached the hotel in safety from the steamer, while we engaged in conversation as to the aspects of affairs in the South. He has been a modern advocate of our cause during the struggle, and sympathizes with us in our misfortunes.

My visit to the family of Mr. Wright was marked by such kind consideration, as to make me feel like I was again amongst old friends. His wife is a native of this country, but speaks English fluently, and has few of the characteristics, in person or manner, of the ladies of Brazil. They have two rosy-cheeked little boys, with fair complexion and sprightly dispositions, who seemed to regard me as one of the family.

I was much interested in looking around his very extensive grounds, and had an opportunity of tasting the guava fruit from which the favorite jelly is made. Here I saw, for the first time, the coffee tree bearing berries; and the prospect for a fair yield was favorable, though the trees had not received the attention requisite for the best result. The berries are at first green, then red, and afterwards black; the exterior capsule including two grains, with their flat sides in opposition. The tree bears some resemblance to the crape myrtle, and the berries are arranged in clusters along the small branches, from which they are stripped with the hand when ripe, as indicated by becoming dark.

In the afternoon I joined Mr. Wright in a ride upon horseback, across the level flat land lying between his place and the beach. This ground is covered with a low scrubby growth, and the soil has the appearance of being well adapted to the growth of rice, and perhaps also of sea island cotton.

In the vicinity of Santos, rice has been produced more successfully than in any other portion of Brazil; and if these lands could be brought into successful cultivation, their near proximity to the city would not only afford a ready means of disposing of the crop, but various articles might be procured to improve the soil for the production of other articles. Along the beach there are several neat private dwellings, with gardens attached to some of them, which present a very thriving aspect of all the ordinary vegetables. In the premises of one gentleman we saw also a very pretty variety of flowers and fancy shrubbery; and having a neat iron railing, the place presented quite an attractive appearance. These situations being some two miles from the city, with a good sea-breeze, and a very fine sandy beach in front, of several miles in extent, are the most desirable homes for families who have the means of indulging this retreat from business associations.

After returning at dark from this ride, I accompanied Mr. and Mrs. Wright to the house of a friend, where a small party was expected; and though I acted as escort for Mrs. Wright, my arm was not tendered to her as would have been expected with us, from the fact that I had learned nothing as yet of the habits and customs of society in this country, and had the general impression that the association of ladies with gentlemen was much more restricted than in the United States. At this place I had an opportunity of seeing a specimen of the social parties of the city; but was, of course, unable to hold any conversation, except as Mr. Wright interpreted between me and the gentleman of the house. Accordingly I felt that my presence was likely to prove irksome to all parties, and just as tea was announced, I excused myself at the risk of appearing rude, and went to look after matters of business, which were more in accordance with my inclination at this time.

Mr. Wright accompanied me, and presented me to Senor José Vergueiro, who resides in the interior of the province of São Paulo, and has the largest and best arranged coffee plantation in the country. He stated that it would afford him great pleasure to aid me in examining the lands of the province, and that he would cheerfully accompany me to see different plantations in his own neighborhood. He informed me that business engagements would necessarily detain him at Santos for several days, but that he expected to proceed to the interior within a week, and should I leave prior to that time, he would write in advance of going, so as to secure me a proper reception upon visiting his place and others in that section.