Hunting a home in Brazil

by James McFadden Gaston

Some other gentlemen of a more lively cast rode up soon after our arrival, and, dismounting, left their mules, with the bridles thrown down upon the ground. This seems to be a signal for the animal to stand until some one comes to take charge of it, and all well-trained mules seem to understand this; but occasionally, as in this party, one walks off to look after what he may be able to gather from the yard or the crib.

Upon the entrance of this party there was no formal introduction to us, and yet bows were exchanged, and one of them approached and shook hands with me. I should have construed the previous demeanor of Senor Egydio, in connection with his failure to present me to his friends, as indicative of a want of proper respect; but his manner with them was much the same as previously, and I am informed by Mr. Bennaton that introductions under such circumstances are not customary in this country. The persons meeting in this way are expected to find out each other as best they may; and, with this view, it is usual to set about a system of interrogation as to the name, business, distinction, &c., of one another. I am not favorably impressed with this style of doing business, and must think that a due regard for the courtesies of life require that introductions should be given when strangers meet in this way.

We made but a brief visit, and left without any special demonstration of interest in our movements by this demure provincial deputy. That he intended to be polite, I have no reason to doubt; but if I had to encounter such a demeanor from all persons to whom letters are borne, the most natural inference would be, that my mission was not entirely acceptable.

After returning to Tapera, where our baggage had been left, we proceeded to pack up our trunks, so as to let the camarada start this afternoon with the pack-mules, and thus keep in advance of us.

In looking around the yard here, I observed a large number of hogs, and, for the most part, in good order, but most of them being molested with the small bicho that penetrates the skin wherever there is least hair. This little insect is black, like a flea, but enters the skin like a chigre, and is very prone to get into the feet of persons who are even for a few minutes without shoes, and make a sore place if not extracted.

In the afternoon, we took a walk into the coffee field, and though the most of the crop had been gathered, there were a number of trees having their full supply of berries. Upon counting some of the best-filled limbs, I found a single straight twig to contain about seventy-five berries or one hundred and fifty grains, and three pounds to the tree is an average yield.

Saturday, October 7, 1865.

Our pack-mules having gone on yesterday afternoon, we rode out this morning from the fazenda of Senor Queiroz, known as Tapera, and proceeded to Campinas, where we expected to call upon Dr. Reinhardt; but he was absent on a visit to Sorocaba. This gentleman came originally from the United States, with others, under a commission to make a botanical exploration of the country, and, after closing his engagement with the government, he concluded to remain in the country, and is very much esteemed by all who know him.

This city, like other interior towns, has but little to attract the favorable notice of one who has been accustomed to the display of architectural taste in the cities of the United States. Yet there are a number of neatly-constructed houses, and those more recently built manifest an improvement in style which seems to augur better for the future.

The elaborate work of carving which has been executed in the recently erected Catholic church exceeds any specimen of native art which has been seen in Brazil. The most extensive decorations of the interior of the building, and the most artistic figures upon eight different altars on either side of the long and lofty hall, prepare us for the grand and rich ornaments which encircle the great altar at the end of the church. The great length of the building, and the lofty elevation of the unsupported arch overhead, are, of themselves, remarkable features of this region, and would commend this structure to our attention, if there was nothing to attract within.