After leaving the Shereef we went to salute the Sultan Ibrahim, and deliver to his highness our present. We were conducted into a species of fort, built of clay, with walls exceedingly thick. Here in a sort of anteroom, or open skifa, or hall, we found some fifty soldiers of the Sultan, unarmed and bare-headed, with one or two governors of neighbouring places, all squatted upon the ground. I was requested to squat down amongst them, which I did near a raised mud-bench. There was little light, the place being built to shut out the glare and heat of the sun. Here I waited a quarter of an hour, till the Sultan was announced by the cries of the soldiers, slaves, and domestic officers. His highness took his seat upon the mud-bench; and whilst so doing his attendants all squatted down, many of them taking up the dust from the ground and throwing it over their bare heads, and crying, "Long live the Sultan! God bless him!" This is the first occasion on which I have witnessed this degrading custom, this abject worship of the representative of power. The scene was perfectly African and negro.
I was squatted amidst a number of courtiers, one of whom had a sort of double skull, another smaller skull raised above the larger one,—a protuberance which came from an accident in infancy. This double-skulled man was the chief of the domestics.
The Sultan was in a merry humour, and smilingly asked after my health. We then read our letters of recommendation, which pleased him. He observed that the route viâ Aheer was good. "How good," asked Yusuf, "when we are arrived here naked, and stripped of everything?" At which his highness burst out, laughing, with all the people. There was now observed a little bustle behind, and his highness called out "Silence!" like a sheriff in a court of law. I begged the interpreter to tell the Sultan that our present was small, for we had been stripped by the Tuaricks. This he whispered in his ear; after which I slipped a packet of powder and shot into the hands of one of the principal courtiers, telling him it was for the Sultan, and he carried it off. I did not place it with the other presents, because the servant of Haj Bashaw, sent from Kuka, forbad my giving his highness any powder and shot, alleging, that this Sultan was always disaffected, and the Sheikh would disapprove of my giving him munitions of war. But I was determined to give fifty bullets and two dozen charges of powder, believing that he could do the Sheikh little harm, whilst it would make him my personal friend. No person knew what I gave the Governor.
The powder and shot being delivered, I took leave of his highness, raising my cap and shaking hands with him. At this doffing off the cap all the people were highly gratified, thinking great respect was thereby shown to their prince.
Ibrahim is a negro, a native of Zinder, a man of fifty years of age, with a countenance sparkling with good humour, and I believe I may add, intelligence. He has been Sultan here some thirty years, so that he must be a man of character. This day he received a renewal of his commission from Kuka, a ceremony that takes place every year; and so he was in a happy humour. There was also a sort of feast at the palace, and his highness rode out with a detachment of cavalry. The persons who brought our camels from Kuka also brought the renewed commission, or a man, from the Sheikh. Haj Beshir has sent us ten camels, to bring the boat and our baggage, in the event of our camels being stolen, or having become weak with the journey from Mourzuk. I have, therefore, only to sell my camels and turn them into ready money, which I much need, and then start.
We afterwards called again on the Shereef, and had a laugh about the man with two skulls. I told the Shereef "two heads were perhaps better than one," at which they all burst out laughing. The Shereef was surrounded by foreign merchants, all chatting in good humour. These Moors were friendly to me. To-day I dressed in my European clothes; first, because unless you have very good clothes, such as worn by the people of the country, you cut a very bad figure; and secondly, and principally, to show the Kailouees, and other strangers, that I was now in a friendly place, and that no one dare say anything to me in the way of insult. In fact, as yesterday, there is not even a whisper of the word Kafer. His highness and all the people admired my European gear. I told them that now the Turks dressed in the same manner, or nearly so; at which they were greatly surprised. I had on a black surtout, tight trousers, and varnished boots, gloves, neckerchief, waistcoat; everything European but the hat, wearing instead of this the fez cap or shasheeah.
In the evening I paid a visit to the family of En-Noor, who were greatly astonished at my transfiguration from a bad Moorish dress into an European suit. They were much disconcerted at this change, and my happy humour. Madame En-Noor rated me for running away from them yesterday. I told them I wished to get to my friends of Bornou as quickly as possible. My interpreter also informed them that the Sheikh had sent camels, and enlarged on the anxiety of everybody here for our safety. They were all displeased at this news, as a reflection upon them and the conduct of the Tuaricks. They now beheld quite a change in everything. I was anxious to mark this change in our circumstances, that they might reflect how they treated Europeans again when fallen into their hands. At the same time I showed a desire not to hurt their feelings, wishing to be on friendly terms with them whilst here.
The Kailouees are all excessively quiet now. All feel the power of the Sheikh, and are almost as submissive as if they were at Mourzuk. However, the family of En-Noor still keep begging. But I believe now I must finish with them. The Sultan is said by his servants to have gone to Tesaoua. I am extremely glad I came without him to this place. Perhaps he also was ashamed to bring me. From Tesaoua he will be here after some days. People call him, as in Aheer, An-Nour, and not En-Noor. The prince of Zinder asked, where is An-Nour? The people are still at work preparing this chieftain's apartments, consisting of a circular wall of matting, enclosing a number of huts; there is a mud-house in the middle, but it is now fallen into ruins.
I made a tour of the town, and was still more pleased than before with its size. It is said to contain 20,000 inhabitants. There are many divisions, separated by blocks of granite, and small hills. We visited the Kaïd of a district. He immediately brought us ghaseb-water and milk. Really the world seems turned upside down when the conduct of the people here is compared with the hospitality which we received from En-Noor, although he personally paid us some attentions not vouchsafed by others. We came through the souk, where were the sticks of meat roasting, and lots of people. No one whispered Kafer! The Shereef sent me a horse to ride on when I go out, and recommends me to do so.