But afore I dish out my Pickles, I have thought good to set afore them a sweet Broth or Seasoning, [together] with Butter and Cheese, that haply one or other of my Guests are minded to dip a piece of Roast-meat therein, or else to tast of my Butter and Cheese, whereby they may with the greater delight tast the sweetness of the following Sawces.

And although I was minded to exhibit in this place some excellent and efficacious Metallick Sawces: yet notwithstanding I could not chuse but first present you with a fore runner as ’twere, signifying unto you, how that by the help of Salt good Broths and Sawces may be made out of the Vegetables, and Sawces, serving for the bettering of Cheese and Butter made out of Animals: that so my Treatise of the Nature of Salts may not be at all defective, and that every one may see what a most noble and most excellent Creature Salt is, which is capable of exalting the Animals, Vegetables and Minerals to a far more worthy degree by so excellent a Melioration of them.

Salt and Vinegar are commonly reputed to be the best Sawce, and ’tis most truly spoken: For amongst all the Sawces and Seasonings put unto Meats, Salt and Vinegar bear the bell; now the Vinegar is for the most part made of Wine, Fruits, Ale, Honey: But as for Salt, if it be turned by distillation and rectification into a sweet and acid Spirit, it becomes a sweet and strong Vinegar, and to be preferred before all others: so that there’s no need at all of the Vinegar of Wine, Ale, Honey, and Fruits. We will therefore shew unto such as are desirous of sweet or savoury Sawces and Picklings needfull for Flesh and Fish, and of well tasted Cheese and Butter, the way of preparing the same by the help of Salt; whereby a Man may make himself for his own Kitchin use or Cookery, various Sawces as him listeth. And having shewn this, we will proceed on to the description of metallick Sawces.

He that is desirous of a good Sawce or Pickle fit for Flesh and Fish, will not find any thing that is more fit or proper than a well-prepared and rectified Spirit of Salt, the which he may prepare with whatsoever Herbs and Spices he pleaseth, according as is agreeable to his Palate.

For example, Like as otherwise most acceptable Broaths or Sawces are wont to be made with Wine, Vinegar, Pepper, and other Spices, and are put unto the Boiled or Baked Flesh or Fish in the same Dish, or set by the same in little Sawcers, that so all those Meats may leave the more gratefull tast upon the Palate: Even so may the same be effected with Spirit of Salt, and that far more commodiously, and to better profit than if Wine or Vinegar were made use of to the confection of those well tasted Sawces. But it is my Spirit of Salt I here speak of, (which being prepared according to my prescription, is of a most delicate pleasantness,) and not of that which is most an end sold in the Apothecaries Shops, and in other such like places, and is for the most part ill prepared, and not at all rectified, and consequently by its ungratefull sharp and harsh tast, it provokes to Vomit, if it be taken into the Stomach; ’Tis likewise of a yellowish colour, and with its sharp constriction draws up the Tongue, whereas it should be more clear and transparent than Fountain Water, and by the pleasantness of its acidity excell the juices of Apples, Grapes, or Limons. And being furnished with such a sweet or pleasant Juice of Salt, I need not any Wine, Vinegar, or other sharp Juices of Grapes, Limons, Rasp Berries, Sorrel, and the like, to give a pleasant and savoury tast unto my Flesh or Fish: for it may be done far better with this good Spirit of Salt, than with Wine or Vinegar: For, that Spirit of Salt serves instead of them all, nor is it at all subject to corrupt as other Juices are, but conserves its sweet and pleasant essence without any decay. But if you would make use thereof singly or alone, then must a little Water or Sugar be mixed therewith, that the acidity or sharpness thereof may be a little allayed, and thus may it serve instead of a Sawce to be added to either baked or boiled Flesh or Fish. But now if a man be minded to add green Herbs for alterations sake of the tast, such as are Parsly, Garden Cresses, Spanish Pepper, and the like; he may beat or shred them small and moisten them with Spirit of Salt allayed with Water, and so put them instead of a cold Sawce to Flesh and Fish. But if now the Sawce is to be poured warm to the Fish and Flesh, then must a little Butter be thereto used, and that on this wise following. Take some pure and clean Water, and make it somewhat sharper (with good Spirit of Salt) then strong Wine, Vinegar, put thereunto some good Salt Butter or Fresh, at your pleasure; and likewise such Spice as (besides Pepper, Ginger, Nutmeg, and such like) you list to add, as also Salt if need be; put it in a little Earthen Glazed Pot, and not in a Copper or Iron Vessel, for they are altogether unfit for this Operation; set the Pot over a few Coals and heat it gently to melt the Butter, then stir it throughly about without ceasing, with a Wooden Spoon, and then being molten it assumes to it self the saline Vinegar, and the Sawce becomes thickish, the which must be then poured out to the boild and seasoned Flesh or Fish. But if green Herbs, as Chervil, Parsly, Cresses, Piperitis or Spanish Pepper, and such like are to be adjoyned thereunto, you may bruise or chop them small, and then put them into the Pot unto your hot Broath or Sawce, and mix them well together, and then presently pour out your Sawce to the Flesh or Fish, for by this means the Herbs retain their tast and greenness, and so delight the Eyes with their lovely aspect, and please the Palate with their pleasant tast, which would not be if they boiled much with the Liquour, for then they would lose both their subtile tast and green colour. Moreover, you are warily to observe in this thing, that this Broath or Sawce be not let lie upon the Coals too long, and so the Acetum separate it self again from the Butter; which to prevent, there may be mixt with the Sawce one, two, or three yelks of Eggs, which being well stirred with the same makes it the thicker, and better to stick on to the sopping when you take it out of the Dish where the Flesh or Fish is.

Such Sawces do give the Fish either boiled or fried, a most acceptable tast, and probably if some Sugar be thereto added it would do very well for Flesh too. But yet, sharp Juices or Broaths are better and more agreeable for Fish. Now after this manner may every one make his own Sawce as he listeth, and render the same with some Herbs and Spices, the more savoury unto his Palate; and consequently needs not either Wine or Vinegar, nor any other acid things.

If any one has but any pure and clean Spirit of Salt at hand, he may (by the addition of certain Herbs and Spices) prepare his Sawce as best likes him, and make it far more pleasant and delightsome than if it were made with Wine, Vinegar, or Ale-Vinegar, nor can you get these every where neither. But the Spirit of Salt may be prepared and so had every where, and therefore on that account too is it deservedly to be preferred before all other seasonings.

Now in the Winter Season, when green Herbs are not to be gotten, the pounded Roots of Spanish Pepper may serve, or Mustard Powder reduced with Sugar and Spirit of Salt into hot and cold Sawces. Nor would I have any one to be so bold [and foolish] as to contemn these my Sawces afore he hath tasted of the same; for I doubt not but that if he once comes to tast the delightsome pleasantness of the same, he will prefer them afore all other, and will give the Vinegar of Salt its due honour.

And now to give an experiment, taken out of the Treasury of Salt, unto those that are delighted with the tast of good Butter and Cheese; let them listen unto those things which here follow. If thou art desirous to prepare a durable Cheese of Cows Milk, and such Cheese as hath all the tokens of a good Cheese, viz. such as is weighty, compact, close without Eyes, and putrifying Holes, void of sliminess and bad smell, thou may’st be a Master of thy desire by observing the following Operation.

Take of Cows Milk, Sheeps or Goats Milk, or of either of these which thou hast at hand, as much as thou pleasest, or as much as is sufficient, (but amongst these Milks, Goats Milk is the best, Sheeps next, and Cow Milk inferiour to the other two both in goodness and excellency:) Heat it at the Fire, and pour it out into a wooden Vessel (N. B. Iron and Copper Vessels are not to be used in this way) and reduce the Milk into a Curd by the pouring on of Spirit of Salt. Now one Spoonfull of this Spirit is enough to curdle ten measures of Milk. This done, and the Milk and Spirit of Salt having been well stirred about with a wooden Ladle and curdled, put the same into Hair Strainers or in very clean Linnen ones, that so the Whey may drain out and be separated, then gather up the ends of your Strainer, and lay thereon heavy weights and squeeze out all the wheyish moisture. Then take your Cheese out of these Strainers, and put it into wooden Vessels, and there break it into small bits or pieces; which being thus broken, sprinkle some Salt, and some of your pure Spirit of Salt too thereupon, and mix all well together with a wooden Ladle or with your hands well cleansed: Being thus mixed, fill your Vessels or Cheese Fats [which let be] greater and lesser [as need is,] and squeeze and compress the matter well in, as they are wont to do in making of Cheeses. Then expose them to the warm Air, and dry them, and it will give you compact and durable Cheeses, not unlike to those they call Parmesant, and such as will be void of Eyes, and of fœtid and putrid Holes, Slimyness, and such like defects usually incident to the common Cheeses, nay they never are obnoxious to those faults.