The reason is, because the first Coagulation or Congelation of the Milk is made by the help of pure Spirit of Salt, which defends from all putrefaction, and not by the help of the fœtid putrid Rennet, from which nothing can proceed but Rottenness and Worms.
Then farther, the Spirit of Salt being together with [Crude] Salt sprinkled thereupon (after the squeezing out of the Whey) doth in an especial manner resist all that putrefaction that is wont to be in Cheeses, and condenseth the Cheeses, and impedes any fermentation, which dilateth the said Cheeses and makes them spongious and porous; and by thus condensing them, it makes them remain safe and free from all putrefaction.
Such Cheese therefore as is brought to this perfection, doth well deserve the preheminence above the rest, and is extolled by the praise of those Ancient Verses, viz.
Good Cheese must neither Argus be, Largus nor Magdalen,
Methuselah, nor Habbacuck, nor Lazarus, [Amen.]
That is, it must not be eyed like Argus, nor tough like Largus, nor hairy and crying like Magdalen, nor hoary like Methusalem, nor light like Habbacuck, nor full of stinking holes and rotten sores like Lazarus: which defects if Cheese wanteth, it well merits the title of goodness: and such are those Cheeses which are made by the help of the Spirit of Salt; do but make such a Cheese and try whether or no it will not be of a more pleasing relish than all others are.
Such Cheeses are never corrupted, they never become tenacious, limber, full of holes, and worms. The Spirit of Salt being poured into the holes of Sheep Milk Cheese, or Cow Milk Cheese, doth either kill all the Worms or cause them to get packing, it contracteth the holes, and turns the bad Cheeses into good ones, and this my self have tried.
Thus friendly Reader, hast thou learned how to make a fit Sawce for Fish and Flesh, and likewise good and durable Cheese; it now remains that we teach thee how also to make good Butter.
If you are desirous of making good Butter by the help of Spirit of Salt, and such as is dainty, pure and yellow, and of a most delicate tast, and such as will not easily contract a ranck tast, you may obtain your desire by proceeding on this wise. Take off the Cream from good Cow Milk, and make it into Butter, afore it be any thing mouldy, or of an unpleasant tast, and separate the Butter-milk according to the usual custom, then put the Butter in a wooden Vessel, and wash it so long in pure cold Salt Water, untill there be no more Wheyishness left, and that the Salt Water do come off thencefrom, as clear as it was at first putting on, and that the Butter appears sufficiently clean, which wash it once agen, on this wise following. Dissolve in pure and rectified Spirit of Salt, as much Salt as it will dissolve in the cold: And herewithall wash your Butter anew, yet several times, and work it well with that Spirit, and by thus proceeding will it absume the residue of the Wheyishness which is the cause and rise of rankness, and which common Salt Water could not remove. This done, the Butter is to be seasoned with common Salt according to the usual manner, and thus will it abide perfectly good for a long time. But now the big Sea Salt is accounted the fittest for this purpose, which being a little heated red hot in the Fire, comes to be of a very delicate whiteness, and doth the easier admit of reduction into fine Powder, and is better than that which is boiled up in Iron, or Leaden Pans or Cauldrons.
N. B. But he that can get such a pure sort of salt of a sexangular shape like a Dye, as is prepared in my Laboratory, he may use that, as being by far the purer. As for the Vessel it self whereinto the Butter, prepared and cleaned after the aforementioned manner, is to be put, it must be ordered on this wise following. You must get you a new Oaken Barrel, and so steep it in strong Salt Water, not the common [Sea Water,] as that it may well imbibe the Salt into this Vessel must the Butter, washt as aforesaid, be prest and thrust in so tight and close, that there may not be any hole or gaping place left therein; but you must leave two Fingers breadth in the Barrel at top of the Butter, which is to be filled up with Spirit of Salt, glutted with good and pure Salt dissolved therein, that so the Butter may be well covered over, and all Air being excluded, it may keep fine and savoury a long time. Now when you would Dish out some of this Butter on the Table, you must take it out of your Tub with a clean Wooden Spoon, and not an Iron one, and wash the same in pure and clear Water afore you eat it, if you would not have it retain the sharpness of the Spirit of Salt.