The Patten now supports each frugal Dame,
Which from the blue ey'd Patty takes the name.
But we must not forget that potent weapon in woman's armoury, the fan.
The Fan shall flutter in all Female Hands,
And various Fashions learn from various lands,
For this, shall Elephants their Iv'ry shed;
And polished Sticks the waving Engine spread:
His clouded Mail the Tortoise shall resign,
And round the Rivet pearly Circles shine.
On this shall Indians all their Art employ,
And with bright Colours stain the gaudy Toy;
Their Paint shall Here in wildest Fancies flow,
Their Dress, their Customs, their Religion show,
So shall the British Fair their minds improve,
And on the Fan to distant Climates rove.
Here shall the Chinese Dame her Pride display,
And silver Figures gild her loose Array;
She boasts her little Feet and winking Eyes,
And tunes the Fife, or tinkling Cymbal plies;
Here Cross leg'd Nobles in rich State shall dine,
When on the Floor large painted Vessels shine,
For These, O China, shall thy Realms be sought,
With These, shall Europe's mighty Ships be fraught,
Thy glitt'ring Earth shall tempt their Ladies Eyes,
Who for thy brittle Jars shall Gold despise.
Gay France shall make the Fan her Artists' Care,
And with the Costly Trinket arm the Fair.
.........
While Widows seek once more the Nuptial State,
And wrinkled Maids repent their Scorn too late,
As long as youthful Swains shall Nymphs deceive,
And easie Nymphs those youthful Swains believe,
While Beaus in Dress consume the tedious Morn,
So long the Fan shall Female Hands adorn.[238]
To anyone interested in the use of the fan at this period, a perusal of Addison's article in the Spectator (No. 102) is recommended: it is too long for reproduction here, and would be thoroughly spoilt by merely making use of extracts from it. They seem to have been seldom lost, or if so, were not of sufficient value to advertise—in fact, I have only met with one advertisement, 'A painted Landskip Fann, cutt, gilded Sticks,' and for this a reward of 7s. 6d. was offered. That they were largely imported is evident by the following notice: 'For Sale by the Candle, at the Marine Coffee House in Birchin Lane &c.—Forty Thousand Fans of Sundry Sorts;' but these most probably were either Chinese, Japanese, or Indian palm fans.
Before closing the subject of women's costumes the 'Mob' must be noticed—that dress of which Swift writes: 'The ladies were all in Mobs; how do you call it?—undressed.'[239] This negligent costume, of which no actual contemporary description seems to exist, is never mentioned except to be decried—as, for instance, the question is asked, 'How is a man likely to relish his wife's society when he comes home and finds her slovenly, in a Mob?' And there were one or two other articles of dress not usually mentioned, and not described, as 'Women's laced Head Cloaths commonly called Quaker's Pinners' and 'Dowds.'
What woman could exist without shopping nowadays? And the habit was the same among the ladies of Queen Anne's time. The Female Tatler (1709) gives us the following graphic description of shopping: 'This afternoon some ladies, having an opinion of my fancy in Cloaths, desired me to accompany them to Ludgate Hill, which I take it to be as agreeable an amusement as a lady can pass away three or four hours in. The shops are perfect gilded theatres, the variety of wrought silks so many changes of fine scenes, and the Mercers are the performers in the Opera; and instead of "vivitur ingenio," you have in gold capitals "No trust by retail." They are the sweetest, fairest, nicest, dished out creatures; and by their elegant and soft speeches, you would guess them to be Italians. As people glance within their doors, they salute them with—Garden silks, ladies, Italian Silks, brocades, tissues, cloth of Silver, or cloth of Gold, very fine Mantua Silks, any right Geneva velvet, English velvet, velvet embossed. And to the meaner sort—Fine thread satins both striped and plain, fine mohair silk, satinnets, burdets, Persianets, Norwich Crapes, anterines, silks for hoods and scarves, hair camlets, druggets or sagathies, gentlemen's nightgowns ready made, shallons, durances, and right Scotch plaids.
'We went into a shop which had three partners; two of them were to flourish out their silks; and after an obliging smile and a pretty mouth made, Cicero like, to expatiate on their goodness; and the other's sole business was to be gentleman usher of the shop, to stand completely dressed at the door, bow to all the coaches that pass by, and hand ladies out and in.
'We saw abundance of gay fancies, fit for Sea Captain's wives, Sheriff's feasts, and Taunton dean ladies.[240] This, Madam, is wonderfully charming. This, Madam, is so diverting a Silk. This, Madam—my stars! how cool it looks. But this, Madam.—Ye Gods! would I had 10,000 yards of it! Then gathers up a sleeve, and places it to your shoulders. It suits your Ladyship's face wonderfully well. When we had pleased ourselves, and bid him ten shillings a yard for what he asked fifteen; Fan me, ye winds, your lady ship rallies me! should I part with it at such a price, the weavers would rise upon the very Shop. Was you at the Park last night, Madam? Your ladyship shall abate me sixpence. Have you read the Tatler to day? &c.
'These fellows are positively the greatest fops in the kingdom; they have their toilets and their fine night gowns; their chocolate in the morning, and their green tea two hours after; Turkey polts for their dinner; and their perfumes, washes, and clean linen, equip them for the Parade.'
We get a glimpse at the prices of silk dresses in the following advertisement: 'The Silk Gowns formerly sold in Exchange Alley, are removed to the sign of the Hood and Scarf, directly over against Will's Coffee House in Cornhill, where any Gentleman or Lady may be furnished with any Size or Price, there being all Sorts of Silks, from rich Brocades of 7 Guineas Price to Thread Sattin Gowns of 37s.,' etc.