Besides the stuffs described in the Female Tatler, there were 'Silver Tishea, Pudsway Silks, Shaggs, Tabbeys, Mowhairs, Grazets, Brochés, Flowered Damasks, Flowered Lustrings, ditto striped and plain, Sarsnets, Italian Mantuas, Silk Plushes, Farendines, Shagreen, Poplins, Silk Crapes and Durants'; whilst among the woollen goods were 'Hair and Woollen Camlets, Hair Plushes, Spanish and English Druggets, Serge Denims, Calamancoes, Russels, Serges, Shalloons, Tammeys, Ratteens, and Salapeens.' Ladies' black broadcloth cost 13s. 6d. per yard, fine scarlet 15s. 6d., and superfine do. 17s. 6d.
Of Indian stuffs there is a formidable list, and as the names are curious, and are probably lost and forgotten, I reproduce them:—
- Bafts
- Baguzzees
- Ponabaguzzees
- Chelloes
- Chints
- Do. Persia
- Do. Culme
- Do. Mamoodies
- Do. Romalls
- Betellees. Oringal
- Coopees
- Doreas
- Gorgorans
- Mahmudhiattees
- Peniascoes
- Seersuckers
- Terrindams
- Callowaypoose
- Deribands
- Guinea stuffs
- Mamoodies
- Niccannees
- Pallampores
- Quilts
- Sallampores
- Sovaguzzees
- Tapsiels
- Byrampants
- Cuttannees
- Doorguzzees
- Gurrahs
- Mickbannies
- Rehings
- Tepoys
- Jamwars
- Romalls
- Nillaes
- Soofeys
- China cherrys
- Goaconcheleras
- Cherriderrys
- Elatches
- Gurracs
- Humhums
- Bulchauls
- Cushlahs
- Emerties
- Humadees
- Moorees
- Seerbettees
- Tanjeebs
- Anjengo
- Izzarees
- Sannoes
- Coffees
- Allejars
- Atlasses
- Cuttances
- Carradarries
- Photaes
- Pelongs
- Cheaconines
- Chucklaes
- Gelongs
- Jamdannies
- Mulmuls
- Shalbafts
- Tainsooks
- Brawles
- Seerbetties
- Paunches
- Palampores
- Sooseys
- Addatties
- Allibannies
- Aubrowahs
- Bafraes
- Bejurapauts
- Betellees
- Chowtars
- Culgees
- Ginghams
- Luckhouries
- Neganepants
- Seerbands
- Taffaties
- Doodamies
- Succatums
Having a Queen upon the throne—one that kept her Court, and dressed well—lace was naturally an article in demand. The Queen was somewhat moderate at her Coronation, for her point lace only came to £64 13s. 9d. It was Flanders lace, and was allowed to be imported, provided it was not made in 'the dominions of the French king.' Mechlin and Brussels lace first made their appearance in this reign, and, in 1710, the Queen paid £151 for twenty-six yards of fine edged Brussels lace. Indeed, Brussels lace was somewhat dear: 'One Brussels Head is valued at £40; a grounded Brussels head £30; one looped Brussels £30.' 'Lost betwixt Hemming's Row and Owin Street near Leicester Fields, a Tin Box with Lace; whoever brings it to Mrs. Beck at the Angel and Star in Fleet Street shall have £10 Reward and no Questions ask'd.' '9 pieces of fine Bone Lace belonging to a Person of Quality' were also lost, and £10 reward offered. This lace does not always seem to have been made of thread, for, 'Whereas two pieces of Silver Bone lace, was brought to a shop in Winchester Street to be weighed, the Lace being suppos'd to be stol'n, is stoped.' Four pieces of 'Macklin' lace, lost, induced a reward of five guineas, and the finder of three pieces of 'Brussels edging Lace' is supposed to be tempted by the offer of 10s. to bring them back.
We have read in the robbery from Mr. Paggen's of a number of garments with gold and silver lace, and with silver 'Orrices,' and the use of bullion lace grew to such an extent, that in 1711, its entry was forbidden under pain of forfeiture, and a fine of £100.
The linen of this reign was finer, and better, than in those preceding, and one linen draper of the time has handed his name down to posterity, viz. 'Thomas Doyley at the Nun in Henrietta Street, Covent Garden.' A list of the linens then in vogue, is, as far as I can learn, as follows: 'White and Brown Osnabrigs, Dowlas's, Kentings, Muslins, Bed ticks, Garlets, Spotted Lawns, Sletias, Harford Blue, White Shorks, Holland, Cambricks, Gentings, Callicoes, Damask, Diaper, Huckabacks, Dimmities.'
Of these 'fine double threaded Cottons for Sheetings' was 12d. per yard and muslin 5s. 6d.
The 'Tally Man' was an institution in those days, and was well known. His handbills remain, and there is a singular unanimity among them; with one voice they make Monday the day for purchases and payments. The reason for this is obvious; at that early period of the week the Saturday's earnings ought not to be spent. As a rule, the terms were, 'Paying one shilling a Week for Thirty Shillings, untill the Sum is paid for which they Contract.' One gentleman sticks up for his dignity, and begs you to 'Note. That these goods are not to be sold by a Tally man, but the Money is to be taken by Weekly, or Monthly Payments, according as it shall be agreed upon for the Ease of the Customers.' This system was as pernicious then as now, only, as the law of arrest for debt was in full force, the prisons held plenty of victims.
It was not a particularly ostentatious age for jewellery, and we can get a good idea of what was worn, by one or two advertisements of lost property. 'Stolen the 11th of this Instant February 1703[241] between 6 and 7 of the clock at night, from the Golden Buck in Lombard Street, a Show Glass, in which, besides several things not remembr'd, were these Particulars, viz. A gold Moco[242] Stone Chain set in Gold with a Crown at the top. One Grain Gold Watch Chain mark't C. O. One large Saphyre loose and 1 a little less. One string of Pearls from 2 Grains to 5 or 6 Grains a piece; one large Pearl with a large Hole in it, about 12 Grains, with several other loose Pearls; with several Diamond Rings, Rubies and Garnet Grislets set in the Middle. One very large Sized Ring, with 12 Diamonds, one being out, with an Ametheist broke in the middle. One fine Medal of Cardinal Richelieu; one Smaller Gold Medal with two Heads. Several Stone and plain Lockets, and Gold Hearts, with Stones on the top to open. One Gold Chain with three links, links and end, 15 d. wt. and one Brilliant Diamond Ring, set round with 8 Diamonds in the middle; one longish Diamond weighing about 2 grains and a half, or 3 at most. One large Garnet set in Gold to hang to a Watch, and several Hoops and Joints markt T. S. Several Gold Rings set with Turky and Vermillions. Several Gold Buttons, some plain and some set with Moco Stones, and a Cornelian Ring Set. One pair of plain Gold Buttons link'd with a Chain nock fashion'd, 8. d. weight and half. Several false Stone Ear Rings, and Rings of several Colours, set in Gold. One pair of Ear Rings, Diamonds and Drops, value about 4l. 10s. Several right Garnet Ear Rings set in Gold with Drops. Two red Watch Bottles rib'd with Gold. Several gilt Watch Bottles and other Toys. One gilt Coral with a double branch. One Necklace with Pearls and Vermillions; one Moco Stone Bracelet, 1 large piece of Coral, weight 1 Ounce 8 p. wt., a plain gold Socket to it, 14 or 15 p. wt., 1 Cornelian set in Gold, and very finely enamelled, 3 or 4 Cornelian Seals set strong in Gold, several Gold Ear Rings with Tops and Drops to 'em, 1 little Padlock in Gold and Silver and a Gold Key, and several Corellionel Keys, &c.'
'Lost, &c. A Gold Watch made by Richards, with a Gold Seal and Cornelion set in it, a Griffin Rampant ingrav'd thereon, a pair of Drops hanging at the end of the Chain; a Rumphlet[243] of Diamonds set in Silver and gilt. 2 Necklaces of Pearl, 1 middling, the other small; 1 Diamond Ring containing 7 stones set in Gold. 1 Mourning Ring mark'd H. G. in a Silver Box.' 'A Bristow Stone[244] Necklace set in Silver.'