Life and Adventure in the South Pacific

by John D. Jones

Loving an early morning walk, five A.M. the next day after our arrival on shore found us “up and dressed,” and out. It was truly a lovely morning, the sun shining brightly, birds singing sweetly, and the church bells ringing merrily. As we walked along the banks of a quiet stream, how did these sounds bring up in our minds similar scenes at home—our own peaceful stream, the feathery songsters, and the old church bells. But the roar of the surf dashing over the breakers reminded us that many, many miles of “deep blue sea” separated us from our homes, and that many days must pass ere we could again live over those happy days, and our present musings be realized.

The inhabitants of this island are of the Malay race, intermixed with the Spaniards. They are generally very kind and hospitable to the stranger, often inviting him to their houses, and setting before him refreshments, fruits, etc.; but if offended, they are revengeful to a sanguinary degree. Many of them carry short, thick swords, called “choppers,” by their sides, which they use for clearing their small farms and other purposes. With these choppers they frequently commit horrible outrages, inflicting, in the heat of passion, terrible wounds upon each other, or upon any one who may chance to give them cause for affront, fancied or real.

It was at this island that Captain Stevens, master of an English whaler, was murdered a few years since, in a cowardly and brutal manner. He was set upon by a gang of desperadoes, under direction of the then governor, with whom Captain S. had had some difficulty. The miscreants stole into his room and took his pistols, which were lying on the table, and, on going out to ascertain who had committed the theft, he was attacked and fairly cut to pieces, the wretches not desisting until they had murdered him. It is reported that the governor was punished by his own government and removed from the island.

An amusing incident occurred a few years ago, illustrating the bravery of the governor and the army. The master of an American whaler, being ready for sea, and some of his men being imprisoned in the calaboose for some trifling breach of the laws, went to the governor and demanded his men, stating that he was ready for sea, and should sail at four P.M. His excellency replied that he could not have them unless he paid the fine imposed, which was a very large amount. The captain, thinking, from the large amount imposed for so slight a breach committed, it a mere plan to extort money from him, replied that he would pay no money to the governor, whereupon the latter replied that “he could not have his men.” The captain took his leave, saying that if the men were not on board at four P.M., he, the governor, must suffer the consequences. He now proceeded to his ship, weighed anchor, left the harbor, and at four P.M. was opposite the town. When within about a quarter of a mile of the shore, and directly opposite the palace, he hauled aback his main-yard, ran up the stars and stripes, and commenced to bombard the palace with one six-pounder, which was all the cannon he had on board. Almost within range of the palace, and situated at the water’s edge, was a stone fort with several guns mounted. The brave commander did not see fit to return the fire, when he might have blown the ship to atoms. After half a dozen shots had been fired, a flag of truce was seen on the fort. He ceased firing, and a boat was soon seen approaching the ship containing his men and a file of soldiers, the commandant of whom gave him the compliments of the governor, who, he said, had sent his men, and requested him to cease firing, as one shot had taken effect in the palace, and actually lodged in his private room. The captain took his men and departed. The governor still preserves the ball, and frequently exhibits it to visitors as the one the Yankee skipper fired at him.

We had received an invitation to attend mass with some of our Spanish friends, and, arousing ourselves at four A.M. on Wednesday, April 14th, we proceeded to the church. It is a fine-looking stone building, very large and massive, with a chime of bells in its tower. On entering, we found it well lighted, and filled with Spaniards of both sexes. It is beautifully furnished inside, many of the ornaments and holy vessels being of gold and silver. The services were solemn and impressive, and, although they worshiped in a different manner from us, yet we could not but feel a devotional sentiment within us as we listened to the beautiful chant, and witnessed the devout worshipers at their devotions. It seemed to bring us nearer to the land of Christianity, accustomed as we had been, for months past, to attend no place of public worship.

On arriving at our boarding-house after mass, we found some delicious “toddy” awaiting us. This, when fresh from the tree, is a palatable and pleasant drink, and is highly beneficial to a person coming ashore after a long cruise on salt water, and living mostly on salt provisions. It is procured by a person called a “toddy-cutter,” who ascends to the top of a cocoanut-tree in the shade of the evening, and cuts a number of notches at the root of one of the limbs, hanging a long piece of bamboo underneath, which in the morning is found filled with the delicious beverage. After collecting his several bamboo vessels, he proceeds to distribute them at the different boarding-houses, supplying all who may wish with this excellent beverage. It is needless to say that the “toddy-cutter” was very liberally patronized while so many seamen were on shore. There are no intoxicating qualities in the toddy, no more than in a glass of soda or lemonade.

The streets of Guam are very wide and straight, and are kept clean. The houses are built compactly of wood and stone; those built of wood, which comprise the greater number, are elevated on frame-work and posts four or five feet above the ground. They are mostly of one story, painted white, and are neat and orderly in appearance. The stone houses are built in a substantial manner, and look very solid and comfortable. The governor’s palace is a long stone building of two stories, with nothing remarkable about it to indicate it as the palace of the governor of the great island of Guam. The west end of it joins the calaboose, which is a solid stone building of one story, and they are both guarded by sentries. Immediately in front of both buildings is the “Grand Plaza,” in the centre of which is the cock-pit.

The inhabitants here delight in the cruel exhibition of cock-fighting, and manifest great interest in the combats. Not being satisfied with seeing these noble fowls destroy each other with the weapons which nature has given them, they place on them steel spurs shaped similar to a scythe, which are made very sharp. Armed with these destructive weapons, the contest is soon decided, as the first blow frequently kills the unlucky bird. These exhibitions always take place on the Sabbath, as that is their grand gala day. At the time appointed the arena is opened, a ring made, and no person allowed inside the rope but the judges and owners of the cocks. The space around is completely thronged with old, middle-aged and young men, who enter into this cruel sport with the greatest animation. Even the governor is always present, witnessing the combats, and betting as freely as any one. The fowls are large, noble-looking animals, of the Malay breed, and upon two being brought into the ring, the betting commences with great excitement, from a rial to a dollar, and more, according to the wealth of the parties. One Spaniard holds up his finger, and shouts out the name of the fowl he chooses to bet on; another, seeing him, raises his in the same manner, and names his favorite; and so on around the ring. The signal is given, and the cocks, being let loose, fly at each other, and, as we before remarked, the combat is soon terminated. Those who have lost now pay over the stakes, and two more fowls are entered. This continues through the greater portion of the afternoon, and it is surprising to see the large quantity of noble-looking fowls slain.

On the east side of the Plaza is a fine-looking stone building used as a seminary, which is supported by the Church, for the purpose of educating those who can not afford to attend private schools, and of protecting and educating the orphan. This institution is the pride of the island, and may well be considered as such, for it is productive of great and lasting benefit. The scholars manifest much interest in their studies, and their behavior and accomplishments would compare favorably with many similar institutions in our own land, where the opportunities of a good education are so general.

A few months since the prisoners confined in the calaboose, about one hundred in number, attempted to take the palace. Their plans were all laid; a part were to attack in front, the remainder in the rear. The object was to obtain possession of the arms and ammunition contained in the palace, and then to make an attempt to capture the island. The plot was discovered, however, just in time to frustrate it; and, after some severe fighting, during which about twenty-five were killed, the remainder were secured, and sent to Manilla for trial, and were there hung.