While walking through the town one evening, we heard the sound of music issuing from a building near by. On presenting ourselves at the door, we were invited in, and found the room filled with females, with but one or two exceptions. It was the hour of vespers. At one end of the room was the image of the Virgin Mary and the Crucifixion. Those chanting were on their knees, with their hands crossed on their breasts, the very picture of humility and meekness. As their sweet voices mingled in the beautiful chant of “Ave, Sanctissima,” we could not but be struck with the solemnity and sublimity of the scene. If woman be all she is represented to be, lively, charming, and angelic, she is certainly more than this when engaged in offering devotion to Almighty God, and imploring the aid of the divine Savior. The females of Guam are remarkably fair-looking: keen black eyes, long, flowing black hair, smooth complexion, and possessed of a robust and well-rounded form; their step light and elastic, and very graceful in their movements. One of these dark-eyed beauties in the attitude of prayer, her hands beseechingly clasped, her loose hair flowing luxuriantly around her well-rounded shoulders, and her countenance expressive of meekness and innocence, would form a model for the chisel of a Powers.
After vespers we passed a very pleasant evening with these lively, chatting beauties, from whom we learned much of interest in regard to the island; and we must confess to a slight feeling of regret when we heard the bells peal forth the hour of eight, compelling us to say to them “Adios.”
The next day we had planned for a stroll in the country round, and before 6 A.M. were on our way, with two Spanish lads about eighteen years of age as guides. We passed several farms on our route, and, from appearances, we should judge the occupants to be well skilled in agriculture. About five miles northeast of the town we came to the ruins of a large stone building, which, our guides informed us, were the remains of a monastery, and built, as they said, “very many year ago.” On examining an arch or gateway, we found the keystone marked 1636. The stones appeared regularly hewn and well fitted. It would seem from this that the art of masonry was understood here more than two hundred years ago, as this building must have been erected under the supervision of a master mason, well-skilled in the use of the square, level, plumb, and trowel.
Near this pile of ruins is a large stone reservoir, about thirty feet in length, twenty-five in width, and thirty to forty in depth. At this time it had about three feet depth of water in it. This reservoir was probably built at the same time as the monastery, as our guide said, on asking him when it was built, “Tiempo Casa Dios” (at the time of the building of the house of God).
After walking some distance farther, nothing of interest presenting itself, we set out on our return. When within about one mile of town, we noticed several large sheds filled with tobacco, which is grown here in large quantities. The inhabitants, however, do not understand manufacturing it otherwise than into cigars. All smoke here—men, women, and children; and we must confess that it detracts somewhat from the beauty of a young lady to see her promenading the street with a huge cigar in her mouth, puffing away most lustily; but this spectacle is so common here that one soon becomes accustomed to it.
The betel-nut is chewed by “all hands,” giving a reddish cast to the teeth, of which they all seem very proud. The young Ladrone beauty prides herself as much on the bright-red appearance of her teeth as the American ladies do on the pearly whiteness of theirs.
On arriving at our boarding-house we found ourselves covered with mud, and possessed of alarming appetites. It is useless to add that we did ample justice to the fine dish of curried chickens, with all the “fixins to match,” which was set before us.
Not forgetting our old friend, Captain Anderson, we called upon him next day, Friday, April 16th, and learned some very interesting and amusing facts connected with the history of the island, one of which we will relate as he gave it to us: Some years ago Captain A. and a few more English residents contrived a plan to make themselves possessors of the island. They secretly worked, step by step, at the same time insinuating themselves into the good graces of the governor. Their plans worked to a charm, and, when they were fully matured, they quietly took possession of the palace, the governor having been made, as Captain. A. expressed it, “as drunk as a boiled owl.” As they now had possession of all the arms and ammunition, it was an easy matter to subdue the natives, which they did in short order, without loss of life on either side, covering themselves with glory. As a matter of course, the new lords and masters must have a glorious jollification over the affair, and at the same time agree on a governor. This latter, however, proved no easy task, as all were equally anxious to “serve their country” in being chief dignitary of the island. After consulting and debating some hours, and finding they were no nearer a decision than at first, they decided to have a spree, and whoever should remain sober the longest, and see the others all laid out, should be the honorable governor. Accordingly, at it they went; bottle after bottle disappeared; one by one they voluntarily relinquished their seats and quietly rolled under the table. After a short time no one remained in his seat but Captain A., and he, feeling elated at his success, drank a few bumpers to “Captain Anderson, the future governor of the distinguished island of Guam.” But, as he said, “he was born under an unlucky star.” So it proved, as the bumpers he drank to his own good health keeled him over, and he took his place among his comrades.
The Spaniards, who had been watching these proceedings with no small degree of interest, seeing how matters stood, and the would-be governors gloriously drunk, very adroitly bound them hand and foot. The dethroned governor was, of course, immediately reinstated, and the next day these noble spirits were arraigned for trial. Being convicted of treason, they were sentenced to be placed on a raft, taken out to sea, and then cast loose, leaving them at the mercy of the winds and waves. This was accordingly done; and, after drifting about several days, they were safely landed on the island of Tinian (one of the group.) Here they resided some time; finally, expressing their sorrow for what they had done, the governor pardoned them, and permitted them to make Guam their future residence, on swearing allegiance to the government and promising to be true and loyal citizens.
The week was now closed which had been given to one watch from each ship for liberty. Accordingly, they returned to their respective ships, and the other watches came on shore—about the same number of men. They arrived in due form and procession; and, as we could now look on and witness the performance, we enjoyed the scene with a hearty good-will. As soon as they dismounted, we were among the first to offer our congratulations on their grand and imposing entrée. How natural for men, on finding themselves taken in and done for, to watch and enjoy seeing others victimized. Thus it was in this case; all would speak highly of their merry ride, particularly when in the presence of the uninitiated.