Life and Adventure in the South Pacific

by John D. Jones

As we before remarked, Sunday is the grand gala day of the inhabitants here. Among other things, we witnessed a parade and review of the army stationed here by the governor, numbering, officers, high privates and all, twenty-five. They do duty as policemen as well as soldiers. They were not a very formidable-looking body of men; some were dressed in white, and some in blue, with fancifully decorated cloth caps. A portion of them were armed with muskets, the remainder with spears. However, they performed their evolutions very well, although we do not believe their commander ever studied Scott’s Tactics.

At the close of the morning service every one appeared preparing for the afternoon sports. At an early hour the space around the cock-pit was crowded with young and old, anxiously awaiting the sport, as they term it, to commence. At two o’clock the fighting began between two noble-looking fowls. The betting ran high, but the battle was soon decided by one of the cocks receiving a home-thrust that pierced his heart. The fighting now continued in this manner until about thirty were slain. In the evening nearly every house was thrown open to receive calls from “Americanos” and others, who were entertained with music and refreshments.

A kind of liquor called “aguadente” is distilled here, very intoxicating in its qualities, yet the effects are not as bad as are those of the poisonous liquors sold in this country. We expected to see the “Americanos” nearly all drunk on this day, as we knew it would circulate pretty freely; but to their credit be it said, not one of them became intoxicated. They all seemed to shun it, whether it was because it was the Sabbath, or for what reason we know not, but “all hands” continued sober through the day.

The following morning, on strolling along the beach, we found several “Caroline Island” canoes had arrived during the night. These canoes are about forty feet in length and six feet beam, quite deep, and will carry from fifteen to twenty tons. They are provided with an extensive outrigger to prevent their capsizing, and carry a large mat sail. When under full sail in a strong breeze, being very sharp in their construction, they skim along over the water with amazing velocity. The natives are large, robust fellows, with no clothing but the tappa, or a fine mat worn across the shoulders in the form of a scarf. Each canoe carries one family, and they appear to live in a very peaceable and happy manner on board their diminutive craft. Their island homes are about four degrees to the southward. On inquiring of them through a Spaniard, as interpreter, how they found the island, they replied, pointing upward, “Stars by night, sun by day.” Their cargo consists of hats, mats, and shells. In return, they take tobacco, pipes, calico, and aguadente. These canoes ply regularly between the Caroline Islands and Guam.

The time had now come for all hands to return on board. Another week had flown, and we must leave the land for the water again. But the boys wished to have a “grand time” before leaving, and the last day each one appeared to be determined to make the most of. Long Manuel, our Portugee, appeared very much troubled by the width of the various streets he was attempting to explore, while our Kanakas were singing their native songs with considerable mirth and high-larity. In the evening they all assembled for a dance at one boarding-house at an early hour. They had secured the services of four Spaniards as fiddlers, and on their arrival at it they went. Eight o’clock came, and with it also came the chief of police, ordering them to cease dancing, stop their noise, and disperse. On hearing this, Tom W., the ship’s wag, who had “imbibed” pretty freely, proceeded to “argue the point” with the policeman, who could understand but little English. He continued to lay it down in a very emphatic manner, using language that seemed to completely nonplus the Spaniard, who would occasionally refer to the boarding-house landlord, and inquire what the man was talking so earnestly about. The landlord, who well understood what was up, replied that Tom was praising the island and their rules and regulations. This the Spaniard believed, as Tom would occasionally introduce into his speech the words “Bueno Espaniolo” (excellent Spaniards), and end it by inviting him to drink. This part the policeman could understand without any difficulty, and, after having drunk several times, he became as merry as the rest, and, finding he could do nothing with them, departed.

In a short time a file of soldiers made their appearance. The sergeant, who could neither speak English nor understand it, informed the landlord that he must disperse the sailors and shut up his house. The landlord, however, shut the door in his face, and told Tom what was going on, who, instantly seizing a bottle, ran out and offered it to the officer; but of no avail; he was not to be bribed in so easy a manner. Tom now turned his attention to the soldiers, and passed the bottle so freely among them that the sergeant ordered them to cease drinking. However, another bottle was soon produced, and a more merry lot of soldiers was never seen. In vain the officer endeavored to put a stop to the proceedings; they were now all in the house, and had entered into the spirit of the evening; and while all hands, sailors and soldiers, were dancing, Tom very carefully took all their muskets and hid them in a quiet place.

Thus matters moved along, the noise and fun increasing, until the hour of twelve, at which time the guard were to return to head-quarters, make their report, and be relieved. As the bell tolled forth the hour, they seemed to regain possession of their senses; visions of the guard-house floated across their minds, and they well knew it was their doom unless they immediately departed. But now all was confusion: “Where is my musket?” was the general cry; but no muskets were to be found. They raved and swore, but all to no purpose; no one could tell what had become of them. On hearing the sound of the first relief bell, they rushed for the door pell-mell, and found their officer had already taken his departure. They waited no longer, but ran down the streets at full speed. As soon as they were out of sight, Tom took the muskets, carried them to the river, and, wading to a considerable depth, safely deposited the “government arms,” and then returned to the house, where the dance was kept up without farther interruption.

The next morning all hands took leave of the goodly city of Guam, and returned to their respective ships.

One evening before our departure a delegation from each ship in port visited the fort near the anchorage. We found it a solid piece of masonry, mounting six guns of eighteen pounds calibre. It is entirely surrounded by water, and guarded by a few soldiers. About 2 A.M. the several delegations returned, and at daylight a small army was seen approaching. Wondering what could be the cause of this, we were all on the qui vive for news. We soon learned that they had come to retake the fort! It appears that the whalemen had gone for a lark, and had driven the soldiers ashore from the fort, taken possession of it, unshipped the guns, and turned things around to their own liking—spilling things generally. The conquering army approached the premises very cautiously, and, after considerable manœuvring, entered, but found the premises vacant, thus obtaining a great and bloodless victory. No doubt they considered it a great achievement, and had it proclaimed as such among their countrymen.

Every thing being now “shipshape and Bristol fashion,” we took our departure for the Japan ground, determined to give battle to the sperm whale this season as we had never before done, knowing that every whale that we now captured shortened our voyage materially.