Life and Adventure in the South Pacific

by John D. Jones

But to return to our own “sanpan.” The captain appeared active and intelligent, the females rather good-looking and sociable, the crew (consisting of one man) lazy and indolent. These first class sanpans are hired by ships while lying at anchor for the purpose of conveying the ship’s company to and from the shore, doing the ship’s errands, bringing off provisions, etc., a kind of “man-of-all-work,” for which services they receive from ten to fifteen dollars per month. From this amount, say fifteen dollars, a Chinaman will save ten, which makes it quite a profitable job. It is an excellent plan also for the ship concerned, as it obviates the necessity of lowering her own boats while in port. They sail like the wind, and are quicker in motion than any other boat we ever saw upon the water. One can not look about the harbor but he will see them on every hand, gliding about with the swiftness of an arrow, yet collisions seldom if ever occur. It is surprising to see the ease with which they manage them—two coming from opposite directions with great swiftness, apparently steering for each other’s bows, yet, at the moment when a collision appears inevitable, down goes the helm of one, and they shoot past each other free from harm.

The morning following our arrival a boat came alongside loaded with fresh meat, vegetables, etc. The proprietor of the “market” soon made his appearance, and introduced himself to the captain as “Boston Jack,” a comprador (one who furnishes ships with fresh provisions). He informed Captain E. that he was comprador to the American ships in port, and wished to engage himself as “comprador to the Emily Morgan.” A bargain was soon struck, and he was duly installed in the office. In appearance Boston Jack is about forty years of age, medium height, very quick and active, with a sharp, keen eye, and very polite. The bows he bestowed upon all who honored themselves by speaking to him would have become the most complete and polished French gentleman.

Dr. Ball, in his “Rambles in Eastern Asia,” thus speaks of him: “About a mile above Whampoa we called at ‘Boston Jack’s’. This is a Chinaman, an acquaintance that my companions had made in passing before. ‘Boston Jack’ is familiarly known to the European population of Hong Kong as a kind of interpreter and furnisher of provisions for vessels, and a commissioner to provide servants, coolies, and to make purchases of various Chinese articles. He was formerly a pilot, and is still connected with that business, furnishing pilots, etc., and is ready to do any kind of business between the foreigners and Chinese. He is said to be worth a hundred thousand dollars; treated us to beer, and gave us some to take on our way. He had much to say of his son, who lives in New York, and was very polite, inviting us to call again,” etc.

Hong Kong is an island, and not, as is the general impression, a Chinese city. It is a British colony, within a few miles of the Chinese coast. It was Chinese until the treaty after the celebrated opium war ceded it to the English. At that time it was inhabited only by a few fishermen and pirates. It is an elevation of barren mountains, with scarcely any vegetation, and is about twenty-five miles in circumference, and eight in diameter. Its shores are generally bold, and the water deep near the coast. There are, however, several spots with declivities sufficiently gradual for the location of cities. The English government has taken possession of these, and erected fortifications and barracks, where they keep small garrisons of troops. Victoria is the name of the city, yet it is hardly known by any name but Hong Kong.

Victoria is on the north side of the island, built on the base and on the inclination of a conspicuous mountain which overlooks the harbor. It extends about two and a half miles along the edge of the water, and back on the side of the mountain half a mile. It has only one principal street, called Queen’s Road, which is near the water, and encircles the island. There are several others parallel with it, and from twenty to forty feet one above the other. The small cross streets uniting them are steep, and at some places have flights of steps by which to ascend and descend. Taking the zigzag streets in their proper order, the highest houses may be reached with a carriage. The houses are generally of two or three stories, though many at the outer part of the city, called bungaloes, are of one story, and look like cottages. Open to the country on the west of the city you will see the steep side of the mountains, with only here and there a poverty-stricken Chinaman’s cabin. The ground is covered with rocks, a little grass, and, higher up, with brush. The white buildings conspicuous here and there are the police stations. Following the road to the east, you enter the part of the city known as Typen-shang, where the lower order of the Chinese reside.

Following the road as it winds round and ascends upon higher ground, we come to the European part—the central portion of Victoria. On the left is a row of Chinamen’s shops, beyond which, along the edge of the harbor, are occasionally the large houses of Europeans. On the right are blocks of European buildings, rising one above another, and as we passed them we could but imagine ourselves once more in a civilized land. Behind these, a little distance up the inclined plane, the mountain rises abruptly, and to the eye nearly perpendicular, and terminating in a peak near three thousand feet high. A scanty vegetation of grass and brambles there appears, but there is little else than rocks, some of which seem to hang by nothing, and may eventually, becoming loosened, roll down and cut their way through the settlements to the water.

Passing along, we come to the principal business part of the city. On the right is a hotel, with blocks of houses occupied mostly by English and Americans, auctioneers, apothecaries, the club-house of the merchants, etc., and back, short streets of Chinese mechanics. Continuing along the water toward the east, after a short interval we see the military quarters, which inclose within a quarter of a mile the showy stone barracks, parade-ground, officers’ residences, in elevated positions, the church, and other buildings. Half a mile farther is another fine block of buildings; then comes the hospital, ship-yard, and a large ship-chandlery establishment. Thus the town or city of Victoria is strung out for two or three miles along the shore.

The population, including Chinese, is about twenty-five thousand. But a small portion are European. Almost every nation is represented here, though there are only a few of each. Besides the English, American, and Chinese, we find the French, Spanish, Portuguese, Persians, Bengalese, Javanese, Manillamen, German, Italian, Russian, Danish, Swiss, Dutch, Belgian, Pole, Arab, Turk, Armenian, Tartar, Siamese, African, and South American.

The streets are filled with Chinese, and you continually see the traveling barber, carrying his barber-shop with him—cobblers, tinkers, pastrymen, men carrying hogs, rabbits, ducks, rats, puppies, etc, already cooked; and along the principal streets you find the brokers, or money-changers, with piles of cash. These cash are a small coin, about one half the size of a cent, of a base metal, and a square hole in the centre, twenty-four of which are equal in value to one of the cents of United States coin. The fortune-teller or conjurer may also be seen, with his charts, covered with hieroglyphics, spread before him, and busily engaged in penetrating the future for some inquisitive Chinaman.

The police force here is composed mostly of English, Americans, and Lascars. They are very effective in preserving order among the Chinese, and a Chinaman stands more in awe of a policeman than any thing else in Hong Kong.