From the ship the town looks beautiful at night. It was New-year’s week with the Chinese at this time, and their part of the town was brilliantly illuminated every evening. The thousand brilliant lamps, with an occasional rocket piercing its way into the clouds above, presented to the beholder a scene of beauty scarcely equaled, reminding him of old legends of enchanted cities. The evening gun of the frigate booms forth, answered from the fort; the bugle call from the barracks sounds sweetly on the calm evening air, and as its soft, gentle tones strike our ear, we almost forget that we are in the land of strangers, and remain musing until we are aroused by the striking of the frigate’s bell, and the hoarse cry echoed over the waters of “All’s well!”
The day after our arrival our ship presented rather a busy appearance. The cooper, with his gang, was preparing casks for water and provisions; others were engaged breaking out the hold and restowing oil, and all hands busy about something; outside a gang of Chinese calkers were busily engaged, and following them were another gang with scrapers and brooms, preparing the ship for an extra coat of paint.
The United States sloop of war “Plymouth” fired a salute on this day, in honor of a visit from the American consul. The report of her heavy guns almost deafened us, and caused our Kanakas to open wide their eyes with astonishment, and exclaim, “I g-o-lly; I never been hear all the same that fore!”
On Sunday, February 13th, the British mail steamer “Wildfire” arrived, having on board Governor Bonham, who had been home to England on a visit. He was received by a salute from the men-of-war and the fort, and escorted to his residence by the military stationed here. In the eastern part of the town are situated the barracks; the buildings, which are of stone, are fine, large, and comfortable, and the grounds ample for military evolutions. The 59th regiment of infantry, a company of sappers and miners, and one artillery company, were stationed here at this time. They were composed of fine, healthy-appearing men, and when on parade presented a brilliant appearance.
We found three churches here—one a fine, large Episcopal church, built of stone; a Roman Catholic, and a third a “Union” church, as it was called, attended by persons of all creeds and denominations.
There are also several very fine hotels here, the principal of which is “Brooks’ Hotel.” This is generally the head-quarters of the naval officers. The house is kept on the European plan, is very commodious, and, above all, very neat and clean. Their charges are in proportion, as they intend their guests shall pay for what they have in good round sums.
While on shore shortly after our arrival, Dick Simpson, our “Group” native, saw a man pass on horseback. The poor fellow appeared dumb with astonishment; at length he exclaimed, “What for man, he on big dog! I g-o-lly; I no been see all same that my place; all the same that ’Merica?” On being answered in the affirmative his wonder still increased, if possible, and it proved a hard task to convince him that it was not a dog, but a horse. “Yes, he big dog; ’spose me no saby; he all the same dog,” he would say. In order to satisfy his curiosity, we took him to a horse, and told him to examine for himself. After having expressed himself as satisfied, he wished to know “where he came from.” We explained this as far as lay in our power to do, and after we ceased he chuckled, and told what yarns he would spin when he arrived at his “land.” “Kanaka my place all same fool; he no been see nothing!”
As we were the only sperm whaler in port, we attracted considerable attention, especially from the Yankee men-of-war’s-men, as they all lay in close proximity to us, many of whom paid us visits, some to purchase shells, whale’s teeth, and other curiosities, others to learn the modus operandi of the capture of the sperm whale. The particulars of the chase appeared greatly to interest them, as they never before had the opportunity of listening to such narrations, or of inspecting the different apparatus for fastening and killing the whale, hoisting in the blubber, trying out, etc.
During one of these visits from the captain and one of the lieutenants of the store-ship “Supply,” Tom W——, of whom we have before spoken, being full of the old Nick, as usual, “button-holed” the lieutenant at once, and proceeded to show him the ship and whaling craft. He soon had the officer down in the hold, among the greasy oil casks, to show him the manner of stowing down the oil. He kept on a straight countenance, and told his guest he supposed he wished to see the whole show! The lieutenant did not appear to relish the sport, as he had already finely besmeared his coat and pants with dirty grease; and on remarking it, Tom coolly replied, “Oh! that is nothing; you should try a voyage whaling; you would not mind the grease much!” After piloting him through all the dirtiest parts of the ship, he at last brought up in the cook’s galley. The mate, who had been entertaining the captain of the “Supply,” now came in search of the lieutenant, and what was his surprise to see him cozily seated in the “galley” with Tom, who had him by the button-hole, very earnestly explaining how nicely our cooking was done, and the excellent virtues of the stove. The mate now came to the relief of the pestered officer, and was walking off with him, when Tom marched after, called him, extended his hand, and bade him good-by with much warmth, inviting him very cordially to call again. The lieutenant could not refuse his hand, and, returning a slight shake, turned away, looking daggers. However, we believe, on learning the particulars, being too much a gentleman to show anger, he laughed heartily at the joke, and before leaving the ship invited Tom to pay him a visit. Tom thanked him, and promised to avail himself of the honor and pleasure.
On Wednesday, February 16th, Sir William Bonham, the English governor, visited the steam frigate “Susquehanna,” and on leaving was honored by a salute, the cross of St. George at the fore royal-mast head. This vessel is the flag-ship of Commodore Aulick, who was daily expecting the arrival of Commodore Perry to relieve him and take command of the squadron.