Sunday, Dec. 13.—Therm. 48°. Went to church at the consul’s. Received an answer from the Sulṭán. It was accompanied by one to El Hájj Es-sídí, the governor, who was required to send me forward on my journey with all marks of respect; to apprize the other governors and káïds that they were to receive me with all respect and hospitality; to furnish an escort of ten horsemen, under the command of a káïd, for whom he had sent money; that the escort was to be under my orders, and to take care that my wishes were complied with; that I was to take my own time, and that every thing was to be done to my satisfaction.
Monday, Dec. 14.—Therm. 50°. Heavy rains, with but little chance of clearing up.
Tuesday, Dec. 15.—Therm. 56°. Continued rain and high wind. No boat would venture out. Had a patient with bad eyes.
Wednesday, Dec. 16.—Therm. 56°. Still wet. My hand again in my pocket to pay the Sulṭán’s escort. Mr. Hay has promised me his tent, and his son and Mr. Crusentolphe accompany me to Rabáṭ. Heavy gale, and a boat from Gibraltar lost; crew saved.
Thursday, Dec. 17.—Therm. 50°. Clearing up a little. The new Sardinian consul has arrived; lots of saluting; the Moors did it quite as well as the little cutter that brought his Excellency. Went out and pitched the marquee. It will do, but it is no great things. Saw the father of the porters: his sons carry burthens, his daughters men.[22] The blue-eyed one appears before the governor once an hour, or she would charge him with her destruction. I am now preparing to start in good earnest, although I do not feel very well.
Friday, Dec. 18.—Therm. 50°. The rain has passed off. A young chevalier, who came with the new Sardinian consul, is anxious to join our party. I shall endeavour to avoid this, as our tent is small, and my wish is to make as little show, and to incur as small expense as possible.
Saturday, Dec. 19.—Therm. 50°. The rain still holds off, as the wind is veering to the north. Visited the castle: the rooms are a good specimen of the Saracenic style of architecture. Rain again at one P.M. The chevalier I find to be a very intelligent person. It will be a hard matter to refuse him; besides, he might be of some service to me at his own court. But though I am much pleased with him, I have determined to say no.
Sunday, Dec. 20.—Therm. 50°. More rain has fallen during the night than we have yet had. There is little chance of getting the mules from Tetuan, and no sign of a boat from Gibraltar. Went to church; perhaps for the last time for some period.
Monday, Dec. 21.—The rain still tremendous. The weather is becoming colder. Therm. 48°. The whole appearance of the day unfavourable. Went to see some serpent-eaters and charmers. The reptiles are very fine; they neither eat[23] nor are they eaten. This was the first night of Ramadan.
Tuesday, Dec. 22.—Therm. 47°. Weather beautiful, sky clear, and air cold. Waiting in great anxiety for Cohen and the mules from Tetuan. Saw a Jewish wedding. The poor bride was painted up to her eyes, which she kept closed, as she was led through the streets with torches and screams to the house of her husband.