Wednesday, Dec. 23.—Therm. 40°. The air very cold. At length I paid the káïd a visit: he was very civil. I then went to the castle, and procured three shields and two helmets, which I packed up, together with the guns.[24] Ordered the escort to be ready for starting to-morrow. Received a letter from Cohen, stating that he should leave Tetuan on this day, while we are to be off to-morrow. How provoking?
Thursday, Dec. 24.—Therm. 40°. Up at six. All ready; but no mules. I heard, however, that they would be here at ten A.M. To-morrow, then, must be the day. It will be, indeed, a good Friday.
Friday, Dec. 25.—Christmas-day. I had hoped to be at Tumbuktú by this time; and I am now only beginning my journey. Even now, the mules cannot be got ready. Nunquam meus. The weather very beautiful. Therm. 50°. Made all my arrangements. Advanced seventy dollars to the muleteers; gave Cohen twenty dollars on account. Attended the service at the English consul’s: an excellent sermon. All very agreeable; and we are to start to-morrow at nine A.M. Many of the consular corps are to accompany us.
Saturday, Dec. 26.—Up early. The morning cloudy. Therm. 50°. After much delay and wrangling, first with one káïd and then another, and declining the honours of the grand Hajj[25] As-sídí, we got fairly off, after taking leave of our most hospitable friend. I had carved my name on Mrs. Hay’s tree, and the young ladies are to plant one to-day. At ten P.M. we started. My cortège consisted of the káïd and the soldiers, together with the different European consuls and their suites; in all thirty persons. We went the same road as from El Autsét. At twelve they all left but Mr. and Miss Hay. At half-past one we halted for our baggage, and then they too left us. We reached ’Aïn Dáliyha (the well of grapes) at two P.M., where we encamped for the night: a poor day’s journey of not more than ten miles. Our course was S.S.E. The road was very heavy. Our encampment appeared very picturesque, with the four tents, thirty animals, and the same number of men, Moors, Jews, and Christians. At Tagnánt my monnah came, consisting of two sheep, a large calf, eighteen fowls, three hundred eggs, two pounds of butter, four ardebs[26] of barley, and four men’s-loads of kuskasù; all of which, excepting the calf, which I ordered to be sent back, was devoured. I am happy to hear that the káïd is anxious to reach Morocco before the end of the Ramadán. When I sent back the calf, the Sheïkh came and brought with him a jug of cow’s milk, saying that he was only obeying his master’s orders, to ask if I was satisfied. The country presented the same features as we found in the journey to El Autsét. We met with ice, and crowds of men and jackals. Our position was a fine one, just above a village, containing about two hundred inhabitants. The snow was on the lesser Atlas. At one spot we saw the two seas.
Sunday, Dec. 27.—Therm. 47°. The weather rather cold. After much quarrelling with the muleteers, whom I have been obliged to threaten, we got off at half-past eight. We crossed the Maharah at half-past nine, and passing through Meshra’ el Howeïd, arrived at the site of some extensive ruins, where we discovered a perfect amphitheatre.[27] From this spot, which we reached at half-past twelve, we proceeded to our halt for the day at two P.M., at Hádd el Charbí Arbea (the western limit). Our monnah soon began to make its appearance; it consisted of two sheep, a large steer, eighteen fowls, one hundred eggs, two jars of butter, milk, barley, and straw. As this is the allowance for five persons, it will give you some idea of their appetites; for the soldiers have three monnah of kuskasú in addition. I have two men with me, who can each eat a sheep. The káïd came out to meet us. The night was very cold.
Monday, Dec. 28.—Therm. 47°. Tried to get off early; but found it impossible to do so. I passed but a bad night. We started at eight A.M. Traversed a country more varied than before. Passed through several villages, to which gardens were attached; the Valley of Myrtles Fahs-arríhán, and after crossing the grinding-river, (Wád el ’Áyéshah[28]) between the two mills on its banks, we halted at one P.M. Had the luxury of a good bath, which has refreshed us more than all the sleep. I have determined to be off early to-morrow, in order to reach El ’Aráïsh (Fahs-arrihan) by mid-day, and see the town. Our monnah to-day consisted of a cow, two sheep, twelve fowls, two hundred eggs, some oranges, and flowers, barley, straw, and kuskasú. The view here is very fine. The dawár is called Ammah. The Sheïkh came down and pitched his tent. We were surrounded by a guard of Arabs, and had a party attached to us, making up six tents.
Tuesday, Dec. 29.—Therm. 47°. Heard from Cohen of a load of kuskasú, which required four men to carry it. Many of the soldiers ill, in consequence of their fasting and feasting during the Ramadán.[29] After much squabbling, we got off by seven A.M. Our road was much more varied and beautiful. We traversed the large forest of Sáhel, which took up nearly three hours. The principal trees are the cork, the locust, and oleanders. We met with many traces of the wild-boar. We found likewise the gum cistus, and the kars, a pretty blue flower. At half-past ten we came in sight of El ’Aráïsh, which, at this distance, looks very beautiful; the river Ulkos was seen winding with a majestic sweep. About mid-day we arrived at the ferry. Here we saw two of the Sulṭán’s brigs of war, and the place where the Austrians landed. After some delay we got across, and went to our wretched abode: it was quite horrible. After bathing we visited the governor, who played the great man; and, after keeping us waiting some time, requested us to return in an hour, when he should have come back from the mosque. He gave us an escort of a portion of three soldiers to accompany us through the town; which is more than in ruins. Its population is not above four thousand. Most of the people have an African tinge. We visited the gardens, and the market (which is rather a good one), and inspected the fortifications, a part of which is very fine; we saw likewise the Christian burial-ground. We then returned to the governor’s; but as he felt disposed to keep us standing, we agreed to leave him without making the visit of ceremony. We then sent Cohen with a message, which brought a very submissive answer, and a hope that we could come to-morrow. Our monnah was very poor; and the káïd sent back to say that it was not half of what it ought to be. This remonstrance produced us additional sheep and fowls, and some wax candles; but we could get nothing to eat. During the evening, a poor fellow, half-Jew, half-Catholic, came to crave our protection. He and Cohen, who had taken a drop too much, had been quarrelling, and the latter had been to the governor; who, to curry favour with us, intends to punish the poor fellow. Our door was almost forced by the soldiers. We came to high words; and we have sent one of them to prison, and are determined to complain to-morrow. My mule having broken down, I was compelled to change her.
Wednesday, Dec. 29.—Therm. 50°. Up early. Paid a visit to Torredano, who had a large breakfast party. After consulting me about his wife and sister, I gave him a prescription. We then rode to the governor’s. Great coolness on both sides. I was, however, determined to enforce my right. This little fracas has done some good. As I have begun, I will go on. We passed through a very fine country. The road was good, and the land well cultivated. We encamped at half-past two, at a large dawár on the plains of Águila, through which the river Sewír flows. It is inhabited by the powerful tribe of the Oudaia, who rebelled against the Sulṭán at Fez. They are principally black. Our monnah came late, and by driblets. Six black fowls, one hundred eggs, some bread made of the bishnah, which is a small seed resembling carraway. The road hitherto was covered with large quantities of el kelakh, a plant resembling fennel, from which the gum ammoniacum is extracted. We then came upon the extensive plains of Ma’mórah, which were covered with immense herds of cattle. The Arab encampments here change their roving character, and appear more like fixed habitations. After some time, we received two sheep, twelve more fowls, four mule-loads of barley, and four men’s-loads of kuskasú. The night was excessively cold.
Thursday, Dec. 31.—Therm. 38°, and has been down to freezing-point. The ground is covered with hoar frost, and some ice has been found in one of our pails. We were up at five A.M., but did not get off till seven. Our road lay along the coast, and was very dull. The sea is here kept out by sand-hills. At ten A.M. we came to four fine kubbahs, buried almost in the sand. They are called the tombs of Múléï ’Abd-es-salám. On the north side is an arm of the sea, called Zirgah: on the opposite bank are two more kubbahs. We got well across the ford; but our baggage mules falling into a quick-sand, our things were all wetted, and we were obliged to dismount the soldiers, and to send their horses to bring over the baggage. We passed a lake with a winding head: on it were innumerable water-fowls, of which we could not learn the exact name. We then pushed on, after the sun had gone down, and arrived at a large encampment of one hundred Arab tents. As our black conductor, who came from El ’Aráïsh, had not ordered our monnah, some squabbling arose as to who was the Sheïkh. That point being settled, he gave us a mat, and told us we were welcome. There then arose another question, as to whether they would give us the mat from the mosque. The place is called Reïyah; and the tribe, Aulád el Bergal, looked horrid.
Friday, Jan. 1, 1836.—Up early, and saw the sun rise; a most beautiful sight. Called for the schoolmaster, and gave him ten ounces. I had lost a day;[30] but this was beginning the year well. Received the blessings of these people, and took with us a remembrance of them in a host of vermin. Our monnah had been small; but for this a very reasonable apology was given. Therm. 50°. Off at half-past seven, and at twelve reached the river Sebú, on our way to Mehedíyah. We bought some shibbel, which we saw caught. It is a finer fish than our salmon, and is sold at about 1d. per lb. We likewise saw here the bishnah seed, of which the bread of the country is made. We found it a sad job to cross the river; and a tremendous storm of rain came on, which nearly wetted us through. We were received on the opposite bank by the káïd of Mehedíyah, who took us a ride to his gardens from whence there is a beautiful view, while a room was preparing in his house to receive us. The place is a miserable one, although it presents some remains of its former grandeur: the gateway in particular is very beautiful. The káïd of the place gave us some of his soup, and a dish of mutton and limes. Our káïd had sent in the Sulṭán’s letter; but as the other refused the monnah for the soldiers and muleteers, I would not receive mine; which caused a little disagreement. I hear that six hundred horse are to accompany me from Rabát: but this I doubt. We saw a good deal of colocynth growing by the road. The káïd here is a superior man; he showed us great hospitality and no little civility; but would not yield a jot on the point of the demand made by our káïd, who had not his order with him. He exhibited the character of the Moor in perfection. No sooner had he done all this, than, in our hearing, he pronounced the Súraṭ el Nás.[31] There was a little grumbling, as both men and animals were without food. Our káïd says, he is like a man who has lost his head.