Tuesday, Feb. 9.—Therm. 54°. Up early, and went to see Muley ’Abḍ el Wáḥed (the servant of the Only One), the uncle to the Sultan. No contrast could be greater than that presented by the two residences. Abd el Wahed preserved, nevertheless, his commanding aspect and smiling face. He was seated in a yard, with a water-skin lying in the middle of it; his room was without even a mat. The fine old man, who was well dressed, was reclining upon the remains of a carpet, with a small green velvet cushion to lean against, the last remnant of his former greatness. He requested me to feel his pulse and order some medicine, and afterwards to visit his sister-in-law. On my consenting to do so, I was ushered into a side-room, where there was no mat or carpet, and only a small pot of charcoal, at which sate a woman who would have made a mother of Coriolanus. She was in rags; but here and there was seen a jewel to mark her former state. Covered with a few blankets, the sick woman was lying on the ground; she was very ill. I promised to pay her every attention. I then asked for some bottles for the medicines, but they had not one; I then gave them directions about taking them, when the poor suffering creature said, “If it must be, make the time of taking them the time of prayer, as we have no watch—no anything.” I promised to send them a bottle, and asked for a cup to shew the quantity in each dose. A small teacup was brought, all that remained for the use of the party. This was the only house where I entered without a soldier. I did not see a child. It was the very personification of misery; I hope I may be of some service to the poor creature. I shall never forget the scene; the woman at the fire, who might have been seventy years old, had a look which cannot be forgotten; and the words “God will reward you,” were pronounced in a tone that still rings in my ears. Went in the evening to the Jew’s wedding: first to the house of the bride’s father. Here I found the poor creature seated on a raised chair, at the upper end of the long narrow room, which was filled with Jews, who were eating before her to the sound of timbrels and music, and around her the women were screaming. Her dress was beautiful and jewels fine; but her face was bedaubed with paint, and her whole person covered with a thin veil. She had been kept about an hour waiting my arrival: she was then carried out of the house, preceded by the timbrels, the Rabbis taking the lead and chaunting; all the persons, but myself and my soldiers, carried a light. In this way she was led to the Sók, where the friends of her husband claimed her, and she was carried to his house, where he had been undergoing a similar ceremony. Descending from his chair she was placed in it; the Rabbi then chaunted the service, and taking a glass of wine, he tasted it, blessed it, and gave it to the bride and bridegroom; he then put the ring into the hand of the husband, who placed it on the finger of the wife. The contract of marriage was then read, a psalm sung, and the bride was carried to the nuptial chamber, where she must remain seven complete days, nor leave home for a month; and then only to dine with her father. Slept in the Millah.
Wednesday, Feb. 10.—Therm. 56°. Visited Adáj, who is doing well; and then went to the káïd Sídí Mohamed Ben el ’Arabí Assoon or Rhabah: he is a fine old man, but was very poorly. I remained there some time; afterwards I visited Múlláï ’Abḍ el Wáḥed, who was better, but still very ill. Returned home; went afterwards to the palace, where I saw Jelábí and the old eunuch, who shewed me the bracelets of the ladies, each weighing about one pound: there were about one hundred of them. A remarkably fine and young Towáshí[59] has become a patient. The court-yard of the palace presented a strange appearance to-day: there was a young lion as playful as a dog, several gazelles, and a large eagle. As the camels were loaded with muskets for Fez, I saw there were some signs of preparations for moving northwards. Felt to-day a slight touch of a coup de soleil: the sun was excessively hot. Called on Jelábí, and saw the little black.[60] Began making my preparations for departure, as I hope to be off next week.
Thursday, Feb. 11.—Therm. 58°, and rose to 102°. At eleven A.M. it stood at 97°. At three P.M. the heat rather oppressive; and yet there is a fine view from the garden of the snow-crowned Atlas. At six P.M. the Therm. was 60°: at nine P.M. it had sunk to 57°. Went early to see my patient at Abd el Wahed’s: found her better, but still very poorly. It is heart-rending to witness such a change in her fortune, yet as the poor sufferer appears to be soothed by my visits, I go there most willingly. Her blessing to-day was pronounced with a fervour I shall never forget. Saw one of the horses of the desert: these animals are used to hunt the ostrich; they can perform immense journeys; they are fed only once in three days; I had this from the mouth of the groom; its allowance is a large jar of camel’s milk every third day; its colour was iron-grey, with rather heavy legs, but a spare carcase; it was very docile. The groom was highly gratified with the notice I took of it. Returned home, and found the Káïd’s táleb[61] waiting for me. I am heartily tired of my diploma, and medicines are beginning to fail, while patients are on the increase. Abú was sent for by the chief eunuch, and has returned with a story rather too flaming about myself: but I must bear with it. Poor fellow! he is more helpless than ever. I could not have got on at all without Cohen, who is most attentive: he has received some very promising offers, if he will settle here as a doctor; and if he remains with me twelve months, I think I should be able to recommend him. I wish, however, he would take less brandy: it is true that he is never tipsy, but no man can stand what he takes for any length of time. Had a striped wild boar brought, to see if I would buy it, and then a fine turkey, a rare bird in this country. Sent Cohen to the Meshwá: the heat is too great for me, under the excitement I suffer from overworking. I told him to ask permission for us to depart: I doubt it will not be granted on the first application. The second eunuch is much better. I find that medicines have a more powerful effect upon such persons than even upon women: three grains of calomel, &c. produced thirteen motions.
Friday, Feb. 12.—From the variation of temperature yesterday, I determined to watch the thermometer every hour. At five A.M. it stood at 42°; at six it rose to 47°, but at seven it fell to 44°; at eight it got up to 48°; at nine the sun reached it, when it rose to 80°; at ten it was 91°; at eleven it had sunk to 90°, but rose again at noon to 91°; at one P.M. it was 94°; at two it had reached 102°, but at three it sunk to 80; at four to 73°; and at five to 69°; giving a variation of 62°, and a mean temperature of 74°, during twelve hours; at six it was 60°. I discovered to-day that five cannot be pronounced before the Sultán: one must say four and one. His daughter had been sent for me to see: when I had called her a beautiful child, the person who brought her immediately put up his hand, and pronounced the word kamsa (five), which prevents the effects of the evil eye: for a similar purpose the Jews place a hand over the doors of their houses. Went to Adáj to take leave: I saw he had a sum of money tied up in a piece of rag, and this led me to refuse, before he offered it. He said he knew he was doing wrong; and after some time he gave it to Cohen. I was sorry he took it, and yet I wished to know what he intended to give: found, on my coming home, fifty ducats, a sum that Cohen now regrets he has taken, and means to return it this evening. Went to káïd Jelábí; dressed his hand; thence to ’Abḍ el Wáḥed’s; found the good woman much worse. Although I told them she was dying, she had been eating raw turnips: I now refused to give her any more medicine. Returned home very ill, and quite sick and tired with the place, and disgusted with the behaviour of the people. Sent Cohen to Sídí Ben Alí, to say that I must go away, else my health would suffer. The worst of these people is, that if one sends them upon a business that requires only a few minutes, they take as many hours about it: besides, the system of giving presents from the Sultán downwards has a bad effect. But as the people are ordered to wait, I cannot help myself. Tired of presents: they cost too dear. Went to bed without dinner or tea.
Saturday, Feb. 13.—Therm. at each hour from 7 A.M. to P.M., both inclusive, stood as follows:—56°. 58°. 67°. 85°. 86°. 91°. 91°. 96°. 75°. 68°. 65°. Lots of work at the palace and at Jelábís. Began to prepare stocks. Saw Sídí Ben Alí, and obtained permission to make arrangements for my departure. I am happy to hear that I am to get rid of my soldiers and to take others. Cohen went back with the money to Adáj; but he compelled him to keep it. Passed some time with Ben Alí. The old boy has fallen in love with my watch. He says he will have it, if he sells himself for it: he offered two negroes. I have promised to give it him, if he will obtain for me one of the Sultánah’s dresses. He has acceded to my terms. As I shall be sure to lose my watch, I may as well get a dress[62] for it. Abu was sent for twice to-day: there are some symptoms of a wish to keep him here, of which he is sadly afraid. Prescribed for Ben Zoar (the pearl): he is a curious specimen of a nondescript animal, and more like a woman than a man.
Sunday, Feb. 14.—Therm. 67°. The variation to-day not so great. Went and took leave of Adáj: found him in a great rage; he had been beating his women. Returned home and saw a few patients. Received a visit from the minister; read prayers, and then went out on the terrace of the house, to take a view of the country. The mountain range presented a very beautiful boundary to the prospect. Dined early, that I might go to Sídí Ben Alí in the evening. Every thing is now arranged: I intend sending a part of the baggage direct to Mogador to-morrow, and to start on Wednesday. Inshá-llah.
Monday, Feb. 15.—Therm. 47°; rose to 99° at 1 P.M., then fell to 60° at 6 P.M. Had a great squabble, and almost a fight, in my room: refused to see any one to-day. Began paying and arranging; found it a difficult task to get away. Was visited by a pretty Jewess, she was brought to be examined for some complaint in the back; it was evidently the consequence of a miscarriage, but the Moorish and Jewish women will have it that it arises from carrying, what they say happens frequently, a dead child in the womb. The poor Jewish patient was willing to undergo a rigid examination, but I dared not; there were many conjectures about the reason for her coming. I find that I have offended the Shereéff, and am glad of it. Wrote to Mr. Willshire, and am now only waiting for the mules, which arrived from Teródánt this day; and as soon as they have sufficiently rested I shall start: every thing goes well. A severe thunder-storm was seen in the direction of Mount Atlas, but it did not reach here.
Tuesday, Feb. 16.—Therm. 56°. Up early, and sent off the baggage; although I fear I shall not get away to-morrow: bought two mules, with saddles and bridles, for about five dollars, but without stirrups. Had Abd el Kerim brought to trial; both he and the Káïd were very much frightened. Received back my bottles and handkerchiefs from the Sultán: went to the palace. Find it does not do to have one’s servant a man of business, as Cohen is; he is too much occupied in his own affairs to attend to mine. Had a good deal of fun with Ben Ali and the ladies; making lots of friends: I am to see him again this evening. Received another present from the Sultán, and have been requested to pass the palace in my way out of Marocco. I find the money going very fast, and have been sadly disappointed with my spurs,[63] bit, and buckles. I expect a little disturbance to-morrow: turned sadler, to the great amusement of the soldiers. The ladies of the harem expressed their thanks for my amusing them with an acchordion. Ben Alí and myself have made a bet against my return. Saw old Hijází basking in the sun, had a long talk with him; he sent for me in the evening to see his wife, but I could not go. I am now to have only five soldiers, according to my own request, and shall get on much better. It is now six o’clock, and the mules are not yet ready: they are now killing the fowls which I am to dine on in half an hour; but as they did not make their appearance, I was obliged to be contented with some bad bread and butter. Went to the minister again with physic, and gave him a case of Seidlitz powders. Every thing is now prepared, and I am to be at the palace to-morrow.
Wednesday, Feb. 17.—Therm. 60°. I was off to the Sultán’s, and saw him start on horseback. I was ordered to go to the Máníyah, where I had my audience of leave: this is by far the most beautiful spot here. I had a row with the Sheïkh. Sent off my last present of dates and brandy—a token of sweetness and of my parting in the garden. I found a great difficulty in getting away: at last, I left at one P.M. the gates of Marocco, with five fresh soldiers, and attended by ten others. For the first two hours the route was over a plain, in a S.E. direction, and afterwards more east. After crossing the river Tensift, the Wád Zitt, and the Wád Aghmát, we came to a douar, where we slept, having received a good monah. The situation was splendid.
Thursday, Feb. 18.—Therm. 40°. Started for the house of the Káïd Ibráhím, who came to meet us with forty horse and his standard. He received me with all the honours of a salute; during which, one man was thrown from his horse. We remained there three hours, and then commenced ascending Mount Atlas. The first place we arrived at was Trasermoot,[64] where I learned that a tax had been levied for me of 300 fowls and ten sheep. I went up to see the ruins: they occupy a circle of three miles, with walls, gates, baths, and arches: the last, however, have no key-stone. There are five walls, and the whole place exhibits signs of having been a strong position—in fact, a Gibraltar in miniature. I went in the evening to dine with the Jews—here called the sons of Yehúdi: they are a most extraordinary people. I never met with such hospitality, or such freedom of manner in any Jews. They had dancing and music, and the ladies mixed in society without the least restraint. I bought here several things. A great squabble took place, when the Sheïkh Berbo played the part of a scoundrel. These are the Jews who have each a berber-master. I have almost a mind to go back to Marocco to complain: the affair will, however, be not without its use, as it will furnish a good excuse for not stopping on the road. The elevation of the place is ......... feet.[65] I have determined to make the best of my way to Mogador, after seeing Waríkah.