Friday, Feb. 19.—The therm. 47°, although the place is much nearer the snow and is at a considerable elevation. I am in great doubts about the city: it is built of unhewn stone, and the arches are very rudely formed. I could learn nothing in the way of tradition. The Jews here puzzle me sadly: they have an air of freedom and defiance. I was rather the worse for their fare last night. On my telling them the tradition I had heard respecting them, they said, “It is true, and we have it so.” They have no certain knowledge of the time when they came here, but they think that the lost brethren are to be found probably at Tafilelt; where, as at Elion, they dug twelve wells, and planted seventy-two palm-trees. The Rabbi here sung a sort of Psalm, which he had written to compliment me, and they all joined in the last sentence—“Blessed is he that cometh in the name of the Lord.” I went to the synagogue, and returned to my tent to prepare for starting. What a changeable being is man! I got up, and went to the Sheïkh of the Berbers to make a complaint, and I have now to write to Abd-Salám to say that I am perfectly satisfied. I wish I could always get the pure pronunciation and etymology of the names of towns and other places. Thus, for example, the Misfywah, as it is called in the maps, is Oom Sievra (mother of Sievra),[66] the name of the first tribe who settled here. Again, Trasermoot is in reality tras (head), and ermoot (valley). At noon we started, accompanied by the whole population. We passed through a beautiful olive-grove. In descending a steep dip, I observed some people, and a pile of something, which turned out to be my dinner. It had been cooked on the spot: no four persons could have carried it: I could not eat a mouthful; but the soldiers played their parts in high style, and to their heart’s content. Our road then became most beautiful, and after crossing a river made a tremendous ascent. We were now joined by another party. I had chosen this road, rather than return to Káïd Abd-Salám, who had sent to say he would give me an escort of sixty horse: but I fell from the frying-pan into the fire. We arrived at a large millah, where persons came out with wine and milk. I had to touch each, and put a drop on my horse’s mane: I was too ill to drink any myself, while the women saluted me with a terrible screaming. We then proceeded to a second river, where we were met by a Sheïkh, with two Shilḥahs[67] on foot, who disappeared in the twinkling of an eye in a ravine; and on descending, I found forty of them with their guns all levelled at, and waiting for, me; while some twenty more were on the large stones on the sides of the ravine, together with ten on horseback, headed by the Sheïkh, who was beautifully mounted. As soon as I came on the level he went forward some little distance; then wheeling suddenly his horse, he came at the top of its speed towards me. Knowing it would be best to keep myself as I was, moving on, he placed his gun on my hat, stopping his horse at the same moment. Such a halt I had never seen: this made my own horse nearly mad. The whole then commenced firing, and so close to me, that I got the powder in my face, and the report almost cracked my ears. We then turned from the road to see a fine cave, which was said to pass through the mountain called Gulgál. At this point we had a view of Marocco. Skirting the mountain, which overlooked a river, and a country with enclosures like an English farm, we got into the district of Waríkah, where we had more firing. Arriving at the house of the Káïd, I tried to walk, but found myself too much exhausted. I received a visit from some Jews, who stated that they have here the tombs of two rabbis who escaped from the second destruction of Jerusalem; that their nation has resided here ever since that event. We had some talk about some books connected with this tradition, but they will not shew them, nor can they go with me to-morrow, as it is their Sabbath, to the burial-ground. They are generally very ignorant, although they can manufacture, in a rude way, silver rings and bracelets.[68] Over the mountain opposite there is a valley equal to the plain of Marocco, where dwell, say the Jews here, those who escaped from Nebuchadnezzar, from whose time they have preserved their national records. There is, however, too much snow at present to enable us to reach the place whose name is Kibla. In Waríkah there are sixty heads of families, and some of the douars[69] are more numerous. At Trasermoot every Jew has his master; but here they have only one. On the mountain there are two; in other places there are three; and so on. The annual tax is a ducat for the head of each family; but they have to entertain and provide for all who come in the Sultán’s name: they are the most intelligent I have met with.
Saturday, Feb. 20.—Therm. 50°. Our road is more beautiful as we proceed. We passed more than twelve millahs, at which we had milk, &c. We halted half an hour at a fine stream, where I got some specimens,[70] and then came to Gurgal, a fine-looking place, where there are many gardens, plenty of water, and a curious tower. We arrived here at two P.M. The Káïd came out to meet us with twenty horse: we had to remain here, although distant only twelve miles from Waríkah. Our course had been S.W. and S.S.W.,[71] and Marocco now bears N.W.[72] We saw many traces of the wild boar. The Shulúh came out with their dogs, and started some hares and flushed some partridges, but caught nothing. We walked down to the river, which runs at the foot of the hill on which this place stands: I collected a few specimens, and found many boulders of granite, generally a speckled stone: the water was slightly ferrugineous. The Jews here can give no information: they have not resided here more than eleven years. We are to go to-morrow to Almishmish.
Sunday, Feb. 21.—Therm. 47°. The Sheïkh’s brother was brought to me: he had been shot by somebody while he was in the mosque: the ball had entered the left breast, passed through the ribs, and came out at the shoulder: it was a bad case. We could not get off till half-past nine A.M. We crossed the river, and after losing our way, and passing more than thirty villages, the people wanted to stop, but I insisted on proceeding. Our road was very beautiful, but trying, as we continued to ascend. Some of the ravines surpass any thing I have ever seen. We passed several tanks, built along the route, for the convenience of travellers: the water was fine: I picked up many curious specimens. At three P.M. we crossed the river Nefísah, a noble stream; above which stands the town of El-Arján, where we saw the women’s heads dressed fantastically with flowers, and some fakirs adorned with curious ornaments. We did not reach Almishmish[73] till just before dark. The Sheïkh Sídí Mohamed Ben Aḥmed is a great Káïd, who sent us lots of presents. This, which I hoped would be an easy day, turned out the hardest of any we had travelled. My horse is so knocked up, that I find we must remain here the whole of to-morrow.
Monday, Feb. 22.—Therm. 50°. There was a little rain during the night. I have been so bitten by fleas, that I look like a person with the small-pox. Our journey yesterday was twenty miles, W. by S. and W.S.W.; we went a part of the way up the dry bed of a river. I found here some varieties of mixed stones, and a spring nearly equal to that at Vaucluse: there were numerous mills scattered through the country, which was very beautiful. We went to breakfast with the Káïd in his garden; it was done in great style. Received lots of presents, and had many patients, especially some old women; amongst the rest, there was brought to me a man who had been attacked when employed in the fields, and had both of his arms broken and half of his nose cut off: I replaced the piece of the latter and set the arms, for which I had to manufacture splints. These are a strange people; when I had finished, the fellow did not even say ‘thank you.’ Many of the ladies here are ill, but I have no remedy for them. The chief of the Jews sent for me, to shew his hospitality; but I have no appetite, and they are miserable unless one eats and drinks to repletion. I must, however, pay him and his household a visit, although their filth is dreadful; and I am covered with vermin that have emigrated from my patients. Long—very long, will it be before I forget this visit. The Káïd’s brother, and one Hají Hámed,[74] are great drunkards; the man’s wife is half naked, but loaded with ornaments. I was struck equally with the profusion of the viands devoured and the quantity of brandy gulped down: the room was covered with filth and kelp, in which there is a great trade carried on here. It was impossible, however, not to be pleased with their hospitality and good-humour, despite the lice, which was an honour I could well dispense with. Returned home about eleven, P.M.; it was very cold.
Tuesday, Feb. 23.—Therm. 50°. It turned very cold. I remarked on the road the strange manner of keeping their corn in large baskets, plastered over, and set on the roofs of the house, where they present a very odd appearance. Received presents again before starting, which did not take place till nine, A.M. We met with three old women, who could have played the witches in Macbeth admirably: our road was beautiful, but my horse very unmanageable. Our course was W. by S. for two hours, and then W.N.W. After skirting the mountain, we halted at one, P.M., in a fine brush-wood, where there was a fine cover for a quantity of game; we then started again, our course being W. by S., and made about twenty-six miles, and rested for the night at Káïd Sídí Ben Mohammed’s Mikád; the place is called Seifel Mál, on which he has laid out much money. No sooner were we in the house than I had a host of patients. The Káïd himself, a man of seventy years old, wants to take some medicines, for the purpose of knowing what kind of stuff it is, and how he shall feel after it, having heard all the people talk of my physic: he shewed me his harem, consisting of ten or twelve ladies. Our room, which is very ruinous, is fifty feet long, and only six wide. I confess I was pleased with the candour of mine host, who said, when taking away his carpet, that it was full of fleas, and he supposed I should prefer my own fleas to his. I wish, with all my heart, he had taken his mats also; we never had so bad a night—almost devoured by vermin. We are now promised to be at Mogador to-morrow evening.
Wednesday, Feb. 24.—Therm. 56°. Much rain during the night, but we have fortunately had fine weather during the day. In our ride yesterday we passed many excavations in the side of the ravine which forms the bed of the river; in these the shepherds and their cattle herd together. The people here are said to be very Háramís.[75] Our course was W.N.W. for two hours; then W. by S. for two; then W.N.W. to N.W.: we passed several douars. The people here have evidently never seen a Christian. The Káïd, his wife, and whole family, came to see me last night; and this morning she has sent to ask me to mount my horse before her: a pretty woman, too, has brought me a dagger.[76] The country is flat, but little cultivated: we here met with the Klágh again. At one, P.M., we came to a large and fine head of water, called Ras el ’Ain, where we halted to take some refreshment; we then passed three large douars. At Auled es Sibá my horse threw me; he was quite done up, and I had to walk for more than two hours: at last, after a day of thirteen hours, we came to some habitations, and put up at the house of Hájí Abú. During the day we passed through a district with a river called Kihira; there were large herds of cattle, particularly camels, which are kept here for breeding: the ground was covered with flowering-shrubs, amongst which I discovered a great quantity of old man, thyme, wild mint, the marygold, &c. I cannot say I much liked the looks of my host, nor, indeed, of the place, into which the soldiers were not permitted to enter. Allah hátebek, habábek, was pronounced very frequently, as there was nothing to eat; a sheep was killed for the soldiers, but before it was ready we had all fallen asleep. In the morning I had to doctor all the women; they had never seen a Christian, but, by some means, the chieftain’s lady had procured the button belonging to a naval uniform, which she considered her principal ornament.
Thursday, Feb. 25.—Therm. 57°. Off at seven, P.M.; much rain had fallen during the night: we were compelled by the country hills to vary the direction of our course to W. by N.; we passed by many villages, and many ruins. At noon we entered a large wood of the argan,[77] from which an oil is extracted; it is a low and bushy, but fine tree; there was also a good deal of carraway, &c. Through a country not so well cultivated, we entered Háhá, through which we continued our journey till four P.M., when we fell in with the great road leading from Marocco. We then entered an immense wood, which took us two hours to traverse, and came out upon the most extraordinary sand-hills I ever saw; from their tops Mogadór was visible, but as night was coming on we dispatched a soldier at eight P.M. When we arrived at the city, we found that Mr. Willshire was with the governor. The former took me to his house, where I made myself comfortable with a glass of porter: I remained there till midnight, and then threw myself on his bed.
Friday, Feb. 26.—Therm. 58°. Heavy rains. Had not much sleep: the porter too strong for me. Occupied the whole day in unpacking and removing to my own house: found some difficulty with the soldiers. Saw the agent of the Sheïkh of Wád Nún, and in the afternoon the brother of the Sheïkh; they fear the Sultán will stop me, and that I shall have to go back; but I shall make the acquaintance of the Sheïkh, and though I am prepared to go back, if necessary, still, I shall endeavour to get away, and go down to Wád Nún, and take my chance. Rained the whole day: returned home, and went early to rest.
Saturday, Feb. 27.—Therm. 56°. Heavy rain, with a high sea, and much swell. As this is an idle day, I went to look at the horse, and in the afternoon walked round and outside the town, accompanied by Mr. Willshire; it is a finer one than any I have yet seen in Marocco: there is an air of comfort and business about it quite uncommon; it has a good market. Met the people coming in from hunting the live Dil.
Sunday, Feb. 28.—Therm. 50°. Feels cold; wind from the N. Read prayers, and then paid a visit to the governor, who was very civil: I fear, however, that matters do not go on quite so smooth as I could wish. Prepared medicines for the people on the road. Retired to rest early, not very well.