Sunday, March 20.—Therm. 65°. Read the prayers. This is the great day of business here; there are symptoms of rebellion in the north; the Sultan is to move to-day; a large arrival from Wád Nún. I hope to buy some pieces of gold to-morrow: several were brought to-day, but none were very good. The mithkal or mazar is equal in value to two dollars and a-half; a dollar, by weight, contains six mithkals, one sora of gold. The ordinary lot in which it is sold is equal to fifteen dollars and a quarter in weight, and in value 225 dollars. The rate of purchase is at thirty-five to forty ounces the ducat. It is brought mostly in the shape of ornaments.
Monday, March 21.—Therm. 66°. I took the best observations I could without a barometer, which is not to be found here; and considering too that the day was very unfavourable. Arranged for my mules: got every thing ready: am very anxious to hear from Marocco. A vessel has arrived from Gibraltar.
Tuesday, March 22.—Therm. 66°. Went to the governor, and took leave; saw four men, who lived only six days’ journey from Tumbuktú. The tent is but barely dry. I had no time to write to the Astronomical Society; I kept the paper; took leave of my patients; glad to get off.
Wednesday, March 23.—Therm. 66°. Up early; commenced arrangements for loading the mules; did not get off, however, till ten P.M., and was then detained a half hour at the gate. Mr. Willshire and other friends accompanied me for the first two hours and half. The road was over sand-hills, covered with a sort of vegetation. We halted at one P.M., took a lunch, and then my friends left me. The country now became more beautiful, and we entered a fine forest of argan: the day was beautiful; the wind behind us; the people all gay; my mule wanting no goad. As I am rather superstitious, I took the following event for a good omen. At a turn in the wood three boys came up to bid me Muhabbah-bik, and brought upon their slate
نصر من الله و فتح قريب و بسرالمومنين
nasr mini-llahi wa fat-hu karibu wa basre-l múminína—“Help from God, and victory is near at hand, and good tidings for the faithful in God.” We continued our route, meeting a great number of people; the ground was carpeted with flowers. Arrived at the foot of a mountain, and crossing a stream, we came to our halt at half-past six, at Edvvisán or Smemo,[80] where we were well received, and liked the people. I was very tired, and having no appetite, took a draught of sour milk, and laying myself down, was soon fast asleep.
Thursday, March 24.—Therm. 62°. Up early, but did not start till eight A.M. The country here is well cultivated, and the barley has already attained its full height: the land is fertile. At an hour’s distance from this place there are two large salt-mines: we visited one of them: the salt floats upon the surface of a brine lake, highly impregnated. The trees here begin to be finer. There is a hill of sand in the neighbourhood, where it is said that the Christians used to bring their horses to roll themselves. The water is fine, and tanks have been built along the whole road from Mogadór, distant from each other about a two hours’ journey. We halted at noon; the ground was covered with wild mignionette; the cuckoo was heard the whole day, and a shepherd, with a shrill pipe, accompanied each flock: the scenery to-day charming. We did not reach our intended halt; for the heat was tremendous; and yet, strange to say, I was the only person who did not suffer by it. The thermometer on my saddle stood at 114° for some hours together: in the shade even it was 90°. The place called Edujwilil is a miserable one. We are to have a longer day to-morrow, as I wish to arrive before the feast: dined on leben, (sour milk), and after taking tea went to bed.
Friday, March 25.—Therm. 66°. The noise I made last night has done some good. We had yesterday a fine view of the snowy peaks of Atlas. I never had such a night as at this place. Edujwilil outdoes in vermin Safilmel: I could not bear to be in the room, and sat outside of the house all the night; I will have my own way this evening. The whole road was rendered very beautiful by large plantations of the almond-tree. Some of the fruit was nearly ripe; the corn was high, and the soil richer. We came again upon the Atlas range; where it reaches to the sea; it has fine sloping hills, and round-capped chalk mountains. We entered a magnificent pass, that took us an hour to get through it: the scenery here was very striking. A great deal of our route lay through the road cut by Muley Suleiman. My soldier rode his white horse, which he made to kneel down at the tombs. Arrived at Hájí Mohamed’s at Beni Tamer: this village is called Ait Isak, where we received presents, Mr. Willshire having told him to take care of us. We put up in a shed, where we had a fine view of the sea.
Saturday, March 26.—Therm. 70°. I am so much burnt by yesterday’s sun, that I can scarcely move my hands. We came to Fernit, where the road turns off to Agadir: we, however, kept down towards the sea, following a track: we had lots of lāb el barod.[81] At ten A.M. we rounded the end of a chain, which slopes down to the sea. The strata here, as in yesterday’s route, were of lime-stone and sand-stone of every shade, and assumed a variety of forms. There were numerous caverns, and large masses of pudding-stone. We passed a fishing station, where we found many boats, and the poles for drying the fish were placed horizontally from tree to tree. The ground was covered with the euphorbium, wild lavender and stocks; and we saw a great quantity of partridges, pigeons, and birds of prey. We met likewise with an aqueduct to supply the tanks with water, that occur at about two leagues apart: they are generally from twelve to fourteen feet deep, and about half filled with water. We halted at mid-day in a large grove of rhododendrons in full blossom: the water was bad. In the strata here are quantities of fossil remains. From the shelving coast we ascended a very steep mountain, and continued rising to about one thousand feet. Here we found immense rocks of shells, some of the masses would have weighed tons. While I was collecting a few specimens, Abú remarked that the same kind of shells are to be met with at Súdán. Continuing our route, we descended again towards the sea, and went along the sands till dark, and then climbing a kind of Gibraltar rock, reached our resting place, Tamaraet; where, however, we could get nothing, nor find even a place for pitching the tent: and as we were not permitted to enter a house, we were compelled to sleep in the open air, while a heavy dew was falling.
Sunday, Mar. 27.—Therm. 65°. Up early; walked out and enjoyed the view, from a considerable elevation. Read a part of the morning service. Did not get off till eight, P.M.: had a most splendid ride of two hours to Agadír, which exhibits the remains of great strength, and of some splendour. We had the upper part of the fortress allotted to us, from which the view was magnificent, but the heat excessive: we are to remain here to-day and to-morrow. Read the prayers, and washed some clothes. Walked through the ruins; there was scarcely a house; some five or six buildings, resembling shops, supplied the wants of a population not exceeding one hundred souls including Jews and children; I have since heard that there are but thirty. The walls are very good, and the Káïd has been building a new fort. Below it, and about half a mile off is Fontí,[82] where there is a very fine spring, which supplies this place with water. The governor was particularly civil, in fact he over-did the thing, for every two hours he brought us food. The moon rose beautifully; the night was fine, but cold: I walked on the battery till nine P.M.