Monday, Mar. 28.—Therm. 60°. Air cold, weather hazy. This is the grand feast of the Mussulmans; the last day of Dhí-l Hajjah, and the end of the year. All my people are so changed by washing themselves, that I hardly know them again. We went through the ceremony of kissing each other, and giving blessings; I had my blessing sent me as soon as day broke. On this day the gates of the Ka’abah are opened; nor do the Mussulmans go to the mosque, but say their prayers outside of the town. When these are finished, either at the Masallá[83] or in the circle, a sheep is slaughtered and placed immediately before a man upon a fleet horse; if it reaches the town alive, the year will be an abundant one, and vice versa. Walked out to Fontí, when I was overtaken by a courier from Mogadór, who brought letters to the Káïd here, and the Káïd of my own soldiers, and one from Mr. Willshire to myself; by which I find I am now to go to Teródánt. A cry of danger has been set up, and hints given me to leave the country. The governor of Mogadór is to give me three bullocks, and I am to be allowed to ship haikes and leopard skins, which is considered a great privilege, but I have refused; and have sent again to his highness, to ask definitively whether I am to go or not to Súdán. The fear is that something may happen to me, for which he will get the blame, as that is the province which barely acknowledges his power. For my own part, I am better pleased with the people here than any I have seen in his dominions. The cousin of Sídí Mabárik Benbey has this day paid me a visit, and requested me to send a letter for him to London. All the people here are my friends; and I am sure I could get on if the Sultán would leave me to myself. I have to wait here a fortnight, imprisoned in the castle of Agadír, Mashallah!
Tuesday, Mar. 29.—Therm. 66°. As I was going to bed I heard the din of preparation; my soldiers were moving into the court, and others placed above, and one in the door-way with his gun. On asking the reason, I was told a fine story about some bad people outside, who were determined to lay hold of me, and that they would not allow me to proceed. I am thus completely a prisoner, and with little chance of getting away; but I have made up my mind to bear all. The night, however, passed away without any disturbance. Two soldiers started for Mogadór, and I went out attended by the Káïd and the four soldiers here, to Fontí. The whole town turned out to see me. On our way down I found the same kind of shells occurring, as those we had seen on the road: they run through the mountain, but take a different direction to the strata; the latter run N.E., and are cut by the shells at right angles; I collected several specimens. At Fontí the population is considerable; the people were quite delighted to see me, as they hoped I had come in the character of a merchant, to re-open a channel of commerce, that had been diverted elsewhere: formerly this was the great depôt of trade. There is a fine bay here, and good anchorage; and every article of commerce is to be had twenty per cent. cheaper than at Mogadór. We returned by the road leading to Tildee: the people here say they could find freight for two hundred vessels, as all the produce of Súdán, and the oil, almonds, and gum of Sús, could be shipped here; and that they could take in return all kinds of English produce, in cloth, iron, &c., for which there would be a ready sale. Returned home, when one of my soldiers, an Issówi, was seized with the devil: it took four men to hold him down, and prevent him from jumping over the battlements. He then broke away from us, and throwing himself upon the ground began tearing himself: I never saw anything so explanatory of the account in Scripture. The cure is as curious as the disease. They burn some benzoin under the nose of the patient, which quiets him for a time, but as soon as the fumes cease, he breaks out again, and lays hold of every thing within his reach; in some cases he has been known to destroy children. This poor creature ate several pieces of paper, bits of lime and dirt; but when the words “Sídí Benel Abbás, Sídí Abd-el Kádir,” &c.,[84] were pronounced, his hands, which had been firmly closed, were opened: his companions then called upon Abú to say the Fátihah,[85] in which all joined; when he came to himself, although he appeared and talked like a child for some minutes, after which he quite recovered. The weather beautiful. Visited the ruins, and bought a dagger. Ordered one of their shirts, which the natives work very prettily: paid and discharged my muleteers, who are sadly disappointed at my not going on. Passed an hour with the governor upon the terrace, talking upon politics and physic.
Wednesday, Mar. 30.—Therm. 70°. Very close; a slight fall of rain. Not feeling very well, I kept my room. Received a second courier: wrote answers, and likewise letters to Lord Glenelg, his Royal Highness (the Duke of Sussex), to Colonel Fitzclarence (Earl of Munster), soliciting a letter to Hámed Libbú, King of Tumbuktú. A caravan has been robbed: an extra guard was put on me, six above, and ten below. There are great fears about me on the part of the people of Agadír.
Thursday, Mar. 31.—Therm. 72°. Finished my letters, and ordered the courier to start at day-break; did not retire to rest till midnight. During the night there were symptoms of the Sumúm; we were covered with the dust, and almost suffocated by it: the heat this morning is beyond all conception, the air literally burns one’s face. The therm. rose in the sun at half-past ten to 128°., and the one in the bomb-proof battery to 75°., while that, but in the shade, out of doors, stood at 86°. There is, however, a moderate breeze, (from the sea), but it is quite overpowering to pass from one side of the battery to the other. At one P.M. therm. in the sun reached 133°., that in the battery was steady at 90°. Purchased two gold coins, found in rather a curious manner: a boy was pursuing a young pigeon through some ruined tombs, in the neighbourhood, and while he was grubbing out the hole into which the bird had fled, he found three coins; continuing his search, he threw up several human bones, and came at last to a perfect skeleton. The Káïd tells me they do find, at times, coins in the tombs; but these gold Moorish ones are of uncommon occurrence. Not feeling very well I took some zemítaah:[86] I like this much, this is the Mogús of Súdán. The heat has been so overpowering that none of us could move about, not even Abú. At nine A.M. the therm. was 80°. A large fire is seen blazing towards the river. Went to rest early.
Good Friday, Apr. 1.—Therm. 72°. No hot-cross buns here. Read the service. Visited the tomb of Mogonadel, the patron saint of the place; afterwards took a round at Fontí: went thence towards the sea, and from thence to what they call their silver mine, which contains nothing but a few ruins of quartz in the lime-stone and sand-stone. Dispatched a man to the copper mines for specimens. Wind E., and much cooler to-day. Started some hares and a snake. It is said it never rains here, although it does all round. Cohen, and his boy, are gone to keep the Passover with the Jews.
Saturday, Apr. 2.—Therm. 80°. The heat was so oppressive to-day I could not stir out: the therm. in the sun 132°., and remained so for many hours. All of us were done up. We are working in the house in reducing the baggage, and getting every thing in order to start at a moment’s notice. Sad accounts are daily coming in of the people about here; every person who ventures out is robbed and beaten: several people are waiting here for an escort. I cannot so much blame the Shilhahs and Súsís;[87] they have been sadly oppressed by the Sultán’s army; and now it is gone, they are repaying themselves. They acknowledge no law but that of force, and exhibit but little trace of any religion: their tribes extend, with intervals, to the Gambia. This has been a dies non.
Sunday, Apr. 3.—Therm. 72°.—A large wolf stole up to the battery during the night, which roused us all. To-day the wind feels cold, and there is such a heavy fog that we cannot see the sea; the sun rarely broke through. There is, at least, a difference of 40°. between the temperature of to-day and yesterday out of doors, and of 8 to 10 within. Felt not all well, and kept all day to my carpet: beginning to get tired of Agadír. An arrival from Teródánt, but it brought no news.
Monday, Apr. 4.—Therm. 65°. Very cold, and a mist equal to rain. All hard at work in making leather bottles, &c., for the water. Received a large present of fish. A large Káfilah[88] passed this morning for Teródánt. Did not leave the battery all day.
Tuesday, Apr. 5.—Therm. 72°. The mist continues heavy, and quite darkening the air. Not very well; kept within the battery. Alas! all our bread is gone, and these people eat none; and as it is the feast of unleavened bread, the Jews cannot make any for me, a deprivation which I feel not a little. The man was seized again by the devil. Heard the history of the enchanted castle, and the black woman, who lives at three days’ ride from this place. Heard likewise of the Jews, and of the tombs. I must see them on my way to Wád Nún.
Wednesday, Apr. 6.—Therm. 72°. Heavy mist, with rain in the N.W. A dies non.