Tuesday, Aug. 23.—Therm. 84°. Walked out. An arrival from the desert here from Suweïrah, but with no news either way. The Jews are boring me to death. Do not feel very well. Towards night it turned cold.
Wednesday, Aug. 24.—Therm. 72°. Had some talk with the Sheïkh. It appears that all will be ready in about ten days. The place was alarmed this morning by a heavy firing heard in the direction of Eït Bamárah, and it was known how the people of As-sírer had gone out to punish some Harámís[125] in that direction. We went out, but could see nothing: the news was brought by a horse, whose rider is supposed to have been shot. The animal, it was known, would, if he were started, make as hard as he could to the Sheïkh’s stable. All mounted, and were off to the scene of action; it proved, however, a false alarm; no great mischief done; the place in an uproar. All the parties who started after P.M. are now returning. Weather much cooler.
Thursday, Aug. 25.—Therm. 78°. Day beautiful. The post is arrived at last. More money is asked by the Sheïkh, who now refuses to give me a letter of credit. I fear I am in the hands of a rascal. I have had a bit of a row with him, and have threatened to go back.
Friday, Aug. 26.—Therm. 68°. There has been a fall of ten degrees. This morning the son of Mohammed ’Abád arrived, bringing news that his father will be here in a day or two. This looks like a beginning; although he admits that they will not start for fifteen days of their month equal to eleven of ours. The place is crowded with persons, who have come from the south, who had heard of an attack intended to be made on the town. Am quite sick of my Jew visitors, who, under the pretence of bringing me food, stop here half the day. Hámed tells me to get every thing ready; for as soon as his father arrives, we are to start.
Saturday, Aug. 27.—Therm. 70°. Hámed has let out much of the Sheïkh’s rascality. There is a conference taking place about a war with Bamárah: this is a very anxious time for me. Had my dinner at the Millah, and afterwards went to the synagogue.
Sunday, Aug. 28.—Therm. 70°. The cold was so great last night, that I was forced to have recourse to my háïk. Read the prayers, and kept my room all the day.
Monday, Aug. 29.—Therm. 70°. A party, with about sixty camels, started this morning to wait for me on the confines of the desert. Kept up a long conversation, to the great amusement of the people. There has been a large arrival of Shilhahs, who have again put off our excursion. Cold to-night.
Tuesday, Aug. 30.—Therm. 70°. Some little rain has fallen during the night. The place is swarming with people, partly owing to the war, and partly to the Sók at Hámed Omonsa. A flock of the same kind of green, brown, and red birds, with long beaks, and a shrill note, that are so common on the coast of Arabia Felix, made their appearance here. Wrote to Mr. Wilkinson.
Wednesday, Aug. 31.—Therm. 68°. Went off to the sea, accompanied by the Sheïkh and eleven persons, including two slaves. We travelled very slowly the first hour W. by N., and then three miles due N. In about half an hour arrived at one of the Sheïkh’s houses, having passed the ruins of a town with tombs: then turning S., rode till twelve, when we came to about fifty tents, which were so low, that they were covered by the bushes, nor did I see them till the dogs were on us. The whole plain through which we had ridden, is capable of cultivation. We found in it large flocks of sheep and goats, and herds of camels. At half-past twelve, turned W.S.W., and then S.W., and rode till four P.M., when we came to a large and powerful spring of salt and bitter water. Here the Sheïkh divided three loaves among the party, and being thirsty, we took a little draught. The sea was distant about one mile, but not visible, as it lay just under Cape Nún. We had crossed the Búkukmán, which was dry, and the Sayyad, which had but little water, and the As-saká, whose water was little and bad: these three, after their junction, form a fine body of water that falls into the sea. We now turned due S., and crossed a chain of hills, and started several herds of gazelles, and came, at seven P.M., to a large encampment on a fine plain. Poor Abú was knocked up, and was near falling twice from his horse. After the tent was pitched, all went to prayers. At nine, the Sheïkh of this, and an adjoining encampment, came to make their feast on the heart, liver, and entrails of the sheep, thrown upon hot charcoal, and then taken off, and wrapped up in the caul and the mesenteric gland, roasted on ramrods, and then handed round; the Sheïkh pushing each piece at the end of the ramrod. At midnight the whole body was brought, and made into kuskusú. I did not eat any thing, but had merely some camel’s milk for drink, and then went to sleep.
Thursday, Sept. 1.—Therm. 64°. Cloudy, and with a mist equal to rain. Up at five A.M. to prayers; then came kuskusú. I got a part of one of my loaves: the people of all the tents came to pay their respects, and brought with them lots of vermin. I was greatly annoyed; they are sad savages. The appearance of the place last night was very grand; there were fifty large fires burning, throwing their light upon immense herds of cattle, and on the savage countenances of men and women. Abú was very ill, but would eat. We did not start till one P.M., as the Sheïkh had some business to transact. We kept along the valley S.S.W. for an hour, and then turning N.W., crossed a chain of mountains, called Abú-l’Asel, from the quantity of honey they produced, the bees hiving in the Euphorbium plant. At six P.M. we arrived at the large encampment of El Báshá. There are here above one hundred tents, one thousand camels, with sheep, and goats out of number: there are also regular workmen, &c. here, and the encampment has the look of a town. Supper came, as last night, when I took my milk, but ate nothing: then came the story-teller, who gave a genealogical history of the Arabs from the time of Abraham, and of the patriarchs from Noah; then of the Koreïsh; and, lastly, of the Tagakánths, who are certainly the men alluded to in Belzoni’s tomb; they have passed by several names, that of Ansár is the one they held the longest; the story-teller finished with some verses complimentary to the Sheïkh and the Christian. He improvised with great fluency.