Friday, Sept. 2.—Therm. 70°. We had thunder and rain during the night. This place is called El Fyeshabd (............). At seven A.M. we saddled our horses to send them to water; they had none to drink, except from salt springs, for this the third day: the people, however, were unwilling to let them go, and they have therefore sent for water, although not a drop is to be obtained within some miles. While the others were feasting on their kuskusú, I took my milk. There then ensued a long argument about the antiquity of the Ergebat and Tagakánth genealogies, &c. To prevent a quarrel, the bard recited a poem. The people here are undoubtedly a happy race. With a firm conviction in the truth of their religion, and feeling none of the artificial wants of civilized life, they are satisfied with what nature produces, and bear the inconveniences to which they are exposed with resignation. I amused them with some matches, percussion-caps, &c. They then went to prayers, and heard a sermon. The day was hazy and cold towards the evening. We started at six P.M., and rode an hour and half W. to another encampment; but there was no milk for me, although the same kind of feast for others, which I cannot touch; while the water was worse than would be Harrogate and sea-water mixed together. Of course I could not swallow a mouthful.
Saturday, Sept. 3.—Very cold during the night. Thermometer in tent was 70° at eight A.M. We did not get off till nine A.M. Impossible to keep to the road, as we had to turn every five minutes to visit different encampments. At half-past ten we saw the sea. Turned W. by N. and rode for an hour up the dry bed of a river, of which the people do not even know the name; it is, however, said to have water in it near the sea. We came to three large wells, where there were many flocks watering; they were very salt; but luckily I got some milk for myself. Rode S.S.W. for three hours without the Sheïkh seeming to know where he was going. We took up our position for the night at two wretched tents. There was the usual supper; but I could eat nothing, and was compelled to have recourse to tea, with salt water and dry bread. Hope we are going to turn back, as I find it hard work to travel without food. Passed an high sand-hill, and saw many snakes and covies of birds. I have now learnt that we are to be out ten days.
Sunday, Sept. 4.—Therm. 72°. This threatens to be a very hot day. Up at five A.M. but did not start till ten, as people were constantly coming to the Sheïkh. Our course was S.S.W. and then W. At half-past twelve we started a very large boar, who gave us a good chase for an hour, when we killed him. His tusks were four inches and a half long, and the upper one six inches in curl; he took four balls to bring him down. We killed likewise a couple of snakes. At half-past two we reached Frou el Wád Draha: this river, and not Akessa, should have been in the map: it has but little water. The tide runs high up; the bed is very salt: this is the place where the Sheïkh wants to have a port, but it is too exposed, the surf great, and the water shallow. We encamped at some tents close by the sea, where I bathed. Begin to feel the want of food. The water was very bad and I could get no milk. Some fishermen had gone out in the morning; we waited for the return of their boat, when I got a fish; the first morsel of food I have had. Could find, however, nothing to drink but salt water. During the day a quarrel arose about killing the boar. The tents were wretched.
Monday, Sept. 5.—Therm. 65°. Cold. Up at five to prayers. Got a draught of milk, and a piece of bread, which is now becoming hard; then went off to the sea, and bathed, and took soundings. Waited two hours on the beach for the Sheïkh and his people, whom I met on the road, when I was returning. Arrived at home, I dried my clothes, which I had washed. Had a visit from all the ladies of the place; they had buttons, beads and needles. I was much distressed at their not having any milk or food that I could eat. It was amusing to witness the pleasure these people feel in having a talk with a Christian. Went down to the sea and saw the boat nearly swamped. My mule got away, and it cost us two hours’ hard work to catch her. The coast to the north all bluff and rocky, to the south sand-hills, and shallow water. After being half-starved, got at length some milk at midnight.
| Drawn by J. G. Wilkinson Esqre. from a Sketch taken by the late John Davidson. | Drawn on Stone & Printed by P. Gauci, 9, North Crest. Bedford Sqre. |
THE RIVER DRAHA.
48 Miles W.S.W. of Wadnoon.
Tuesday, Sept. 6.—Therm. 60°. Had a row with the Sheïkh. Some of the people had stolen my horse’s corn. A cool wind from the N.E. Abú upset the milk I had saved for breakfast. We started at half-past nine, and rode fast for fourteen miles E.N.E., and then due N. Crossed several sand-hills, and saw many gazelles, boars and serpents. At five P.M. came to a small spring of fresh water. My horse has been three days without any, and has had only salt water since the day before he left Wad Nún. We came almost to blows to get a mouthful for him; I was obliged to go without any myself; for as the quantity is so small, it is the law to keep it for human beings alone. We halted for an hour, and then turning a little west, crossed a high range, and came again to El Bushra, where I got a belly-full of milk and of bread which was now mouldy.
Wednesday, Sept. 7.—Therm. 60°. It was arranged for us to return home this evening; but a dispute arose about a spring, and some salt-beds, and the question of war with the Tagakánths and Ergebats detained us the whole day. This conference was one of the most interesting scenes I ever witnessed. Upon one of the poles of the tent were suspended the guns, on the other the sword and cuneas; the Sheïkh stood in the centre, myself at his right hand, and the Kadí on his left; the charges and questions, the animated pleadings, the powerful appeals, &c. together with the noise of those siding with each party, all presented a striking picture. There was some difficulty in settling matters; but all differences were eventually brought to a close by a feast, when I got my milk and laid down.