[5] A beer made from Indian corn.
CHAPTER IV.
Strange Articles of Food—Native Cookery—The River Amissa—Reception by the Caboceer of Amissa—Soil, Fruits, &c.—An Adventure—Visit from a Hyena—The River Anaqua—Arsafah—Soil, Fruits, &c.—Beautiful Birds—Moors and Arabs here—Cattle—Return to Cape Coast—Hospitable Reception there—Invitation from the King of Ashantee—My Reply—Visit the Neighbourhood of Cape Coast—Coffee Plantations—Indolence of the Natives—The Town of Napoleon—Eyau Awkwano—Fruits Growing Spontaneously—Bad Roads—Singular Mode of Carrying Timber—Cotton Trees—The Dwarf Cotton Shrub—Scene of a Sanguinary Battle—Djewkwa—Native Houses—An Intoxicated Caboceer—The Caboceer’s Presents—Account of him—Return to Cape Coast—Sail for Whydah—Winnebah Method of Curing Fish—Natives—Stock—Neighbouring Country—The Devil’s Hill—Soil—Yanwin (samphire)—The River Jensu—Beautiful Birds—The King-fisher.
At 4 A.M. we resumed our journey to the River Amissa, distant three miles. Our road passed over loose sand, and was very fatiguing to the traveller. After walking about two miles, we came to a small lake, where we found two fishermen busily engaged in cutting up a very large shark, which they said they were dividing into so many cowries’ worth, or, as we should say, two pennyworths. Here “all is fish that comes to net.” They eat anything; alligators, alligators’ eggs, dogs, monkeys, cats,—in fact, there are few things they will not devour as a meal. Their method of cooking is certainly very good. Their soups and stews are wholesome; and their palm-soup is delicious, either made with fish or fowl; it is seasoned with palm-oil and pepper. Kankie, a sort of bread made from the Indian corn, coarsely ground, is the most common food, as wheaten bread is in Europe. Of vegetables they have great varieties: yams, cassada, or manioc root, sweet potatoes, and plantains, as well as many other herbs used for soups. We saw at this place the remains of a very large whale, which had been driven on shore some time before.
After passing along the beach, still on the loose sand, about one mile, we reached the river Amissa, which might more correctly be called a lake. The whole of the party except myself were carried across by the same men who had carried them the previous part of the journey; but I, having no carriers, was ferried across by one of the chief’s or caboceer’s canoes, which happened to be on the lake. After crossing it, we immediately proceeded to the kroom, or village, named, from the lake or river, Amissa. Here the old caboceer received us very kindly, and soon cleared out a house for our accommodation. We then walked round the village, which is pleasantly situated on a good soil, differing from any I had seen on the coast farther westward. It is black, loamy, and very rich and fertile, bearing many large trees of different kinds, such as cocoas, bananas, and plantains, in great abundance. Pine-apples come up spontaneously.
After walking round the kroom, we went to the river to bathe, and found that it had risen considerably since we crossed it, as the sea, when near high water, flows into it. It has here, however, nearly banked itself off. The water of this lake is very salt, although it is constantly fed by a freshwater stream from the N.W. This river forms a lagoon at a short distance from the sea, eastwards. On returning to our lodgings, which had nothing but bare walls, we made a hearty supper, sitting or lying on the ground or floor, and were afterwards joined by the good old caboceer over a glass of grog, which he very readily accepted, accompanied by some of his captains. Thus we amused ourselves till twelve o’clock, when one of our party having got a little too much, became rather quarrelsome, and by some accident upset the candle, so that we were left in total darkness, for as the hut had no windows, we were not benefited by the moonlight. The old caboceer seemed much alarmed, and clasped me tightly round the waist with both his arms for protection. A light was, however, soon procured by help of a lucifer-match, and lo! all the old chief’s captains had deserted him, supposing the light had been purposely extinguished for some hostile design. The old man, however, was soon convinced of the contrary, and I escorted him home to his house, which differed from those already described only by having the fire-place inside instead of outside of it. When I returned all the party lay down to rest till the morning. I had borrowed a grass mat from the caboceer, and the others lay in their baskets. Musquitoes, however, were so numerous that we could get no rest; at about half-past two A.M. my friend Mr. Brewe and his wife were entirely driven out, and made an attempt to sleep in the street, but found their tormentors still more numerous there; whereupon, they resolved upon beating a retreat back to Annamaboe. However, as I had already walked twelve miles in a scorching sun and over a miserable road, I felt no inclination to accompany them, particularly as we had not yet seen any thing of the neighbouring country. Besides which, we had not finished our intended journey.
My remonstrances, however, were in vain. Mr. Brewe had determined to return, and awoke my other friend, who was comfortably reposing under the protecting influence of Bacchus. He had felt nothing of the musquitoes, and very much wished to remain till morning; but Mr. Brewe was not to be dissuaded, and accordingly ordered his servants and baggage to get into marching order. I determined, notwithstanding, to remain alone. Mr. Brewe showed great anxiety for my safety, and very kindly left the provision-boxes for my use during the next two days, which was very desirable, for our money is of no value in this country, cowries being the only currency known.
After the departure of my friends, I lay down outside of the hut, and was just falling asleep, when I felt something touch my cap. I was not alarmed, however, supposing it to be either a dog or a pig, smelling at my head; but on moving my head, and making a noise to drive away my unwelcome visitor, the animal made more noise in his retreat than it seemed possible for a dog to make, and moved much faster than a pig. This circumstance induced me to get up, when, to my astonishment, the same animal having been obliged to repass me, as it had been frustrated in its first attempt to escape by getting bewildered amongst the houses, it turned out to be a large hyena, or, as the natives call it, a patakoo. These beasts are so ravenous and so numerous, that they frequently carry off cattle, pigs, poultry, and even dig or scratch up dead bodies.
In the morning, when the old caboceer visited me, I informed him of what had happened, and he congratulated me upon my escape, as he assured me that those beasts frequently carry off a bullock or a hog.
After breakfast the caboceer called again upon me, inviting me to go to his house to be introduced to his family, and to drink with him. He pressed me very much to remain with him a few days, but I begged him to excuse me, promising to come another time and remain there a short time. The village bears nearly the same direction by the compass as the other two places already mentioned.