December 1st.—At 10 A.M. I set off on my journey to the river Anaqua, only two miles distant. It is now the dry season and is very small; it runs into the lagoon, which I was obliged to cross in my way to the small village or kroom named Arsafah. This kroom is situated between the lagoon and the sea, but close to the latter. Its natives are maintained chiefly by fishing. But at a little distance in the interior much corn is produced, and it is often brought to this place for shipment, sometimes at the rate of sixpence per bushel.
The soil is much more fertile here than at Cape Coast. Cocoa-nuts grow in great abundance, although near the sea no trees of any considerable size are to be found. The ground is mostly covered with shrubs and small trees, about ten or twelve feet high. At this place I saw some very handsome birds, of beautiful plumage, such as the splendid crown-bird. They are very wild; few of them, indeed, are stationary in any part of this coast. They migrate every three months, and some continue here only a few days, not remaining to breed, perhaps as being too near the sea. The fish taken in this lagoon have a much better flavour than those caught in the sea.
The inhabitants of this place are much like those of Accra; much better made than the natives of Cape Coast, the form of their head being much finer. I found, upon inquiry among some of the old people, that they had come from a great distance in the interior, and belonged to various tribes, which I could distinguish from the marks upon their faces. Some Moors and Arabs have even found their way to this part of the west coast. They are, as at all other places which I have yet visited in this country, very indolent; and here they are very fond of gaming and drinking, especially rum, or palm-wine. Sheep, goats, and pigs, as well as poultry, are plentiful, but small and lean, compared with those of colder climates. The sheep in West and Central Africa are clothed with hair instead of wool, like the goats in Europe.
After dinner I set out on my return to Annamaboe, along the beach, which was much more fatiguing than my journey from the Amissa through the woods. In the evening I reached Accra, where I passed the night at the mission-house, being very kindly entertained by the native teacher before mentioned, who resides there.
December 2d.—At 10 A.M. I started again by the same route as before for Annamaboe, which I reached at 5 P.M. There I remained a few days longer with my friend Mr. Brewe; and when I had determined to return to Cape Coast, my friend Mr. Cobble kindly furnished me with a canoe, and thus I reached Cape Coast safely after a fortnight’s absence.
There I received, as before, from Mr. Hutton and all the merchants of the place, as well as from the officers of the garrison, the greatest attention and kindness. In fact, they often pressed me to become an honorary member of their mess, and I trust they will excuse the liberty I take in mentioning their names, for it is the only mark of gratitude I can give for such kindness and generosity. The officers then in garrison belonged to Her Majesty’s First West India regiment, and were,—Lieutenant Pogson, commanding the fort; Lieutenant Anton; Mr. Ross, commissary; and Dr. M’Hardy, surgeon.
I here waited for the King of Ashantee’s reply to a letter sent to him by Governor Hill, as I mentioned above. The reply was despatched in due time, and was to this effect: that the King would be happy to see me in Coomassie, and would give me an escort as far as the Kong Mountains. Having, however, soon afterwards heard of the murder of one of his subjects, he sent off an express to overtake the Governor’s messenger, with orders for his return to Coomassie. When he again reached that place the King’s letter was withdrawn, and another substituted for it, informing the Governor that though the King would be glad to see me in Coomassie, he could not allow me to go farther, on account of the murder which had been committed. One of his own messengers also was sent down, with a large retinue of attendants, bringing a message to the same effect. Upon consulting the Governor, he therefore agreed with me that it would be useless to go to Coomassie, when I was aware that I could not penetrate farther. Quako, the King’s messenger, was sent for, and desired by the Governor to tell his master the King, that I should not trouble him, since I should not be allowed to proceed beyond the limits of his dominions.
With this message his Majesty was probably much mortified. I must here add that I was much indebted for the interest Governor Hill took in my proposed journey, and to his kind treatment of me while I remained at Cape Coast.
After spending a very pleasant Christmas with my generous and hospitable friend Mr. Hutton, and passing also the New Year’s day in true English style, as far as could be done in this country, (the health of her Majesty and the royal family, with success to the army and navy, and other loyal toasts, having been drunk with much spirit,) I set out, on the 2d January, 1845, accompanied by Mr. Hutton, Mr. Smith, and the Ashantee princes (who happened to be at Cape Coast to receive their pension from the British Government), on a journey to a town of some note twenty miles distant from the Cape, lying in a nearly north-west direction. Our road passed through a coffee plantation, formerly belonging to the late Mr. Swansea, but now in the possession of the Missionaries established at Cape Coast. It was in a much neglected condition, owing to the difficulty in prevailing on the native labourers to attend to their work.
A native foreman is too commonly the idlest in the gang, and too ready to encourage those under him to set their employers at defiance. This remark will perhaps be thought by some philanthropic persons very uncharitable; but whoever has had any experience of the character of this people will corroborate my statements. The situation of this plantation is pretty well chosen, as it is close to a river, and has a dwelling-house pleasantly situated on a hill of considerable elevation. In the garden are some very fine orange, lime, and bread-fruit trees, with other smaller plants, and pine-apples in great abundance. In the plantation the coffee-trees are very healthy, but nearly choked up with weeds and grass, which is of very rapid growth in this country. The pine-apples are of large size. The greater part of this plantation, however, has been ill chosen.