CHAPTER XII.
Visit to the King at his Palace—Description of it—Reception by his Majesty—Gaudy Dress of the Attendants—Masks, Ornaments, &c.—Occasion of the War between the Mahees and Dahomans, and its Result—The King’s Walking-staffs—Dance performed by his Majesty—Another Review of Female Troops—Execution of Four Traitors—Horrible Occurrence—Disgusting office of the Blood-drinker—Ludicrous Scene—The King’s Mother and Grandmother—Dance performed by them—Costume of the King’s Favourite Wives—I perform on the Jew’s Harp—I dance with his Majesty—His Message to the Queen of England—Ridiculous Customs—Court of Appeal established at Abomey—Character of the King—Domestic Slavery—A Slave-hunt—Military Distinctions—Want of natural Affection in the Natives—Roguery of my Servant—The King’s Commissions to me—An Interesting Incident—Murderous Attack on me by my Servant—Inquiry into the Occurrence—My Servant compelled to accompany me.
June 13th.—To-day I attended at the King’s house or palace. After passing through two quadrangles of about sixty yards by thirty, we entered the principal square. This square is formed of three sides of houses or long sheds; and on the opposite side to the principal part or side is a high wall of clay, with human skulls placed at short intervals on the top. All the quadrangles were filled with a mob of armed men, some sitting, some lying down asleep, others walking about smoking.
This palace, for the King has many, is divided into different apartments, all on the ground-floor; for though the ridge of the roof is of sufficient height for two stories, yet the thatch is brought down so low as to reach to within four feet of the ground. Along the front is a low piazza, extending the whole length of the building. The main entrance is in the centre of the side of the square. In this entrance the King lay on a fine crimson carpet, trimmed with gold lace.
At first I could not perceive his Majesty, as he was placed so far back under this low dark piazza, although I was told that he was paying his respects to me by motioning with his hand. However, I returned the compliment towards the spot where, according to appearance, he was, surrounded by numbers of his favourite wives. Upon being desired to approach nearer, I was directed by Mayho and some more headmen, who accompanied me, who advanced slowly on their hands and knees, myself in the centre, till within a few yards of his Majesty, whom I could now perfectly see. The King raised himself to a sitting posture from the large crimson silk velvet cushion on which he had been reclining, and very kindly asked me how I felt after sitting with him so long on the previous day. He then ordered a very large canopy, or huge umbrella, richly ornamented, to be stuck up. A hole was accordingly dug in the ground, and the handle of the umbrella placed therein, the earth beat tightly round it, similar to a large mushroom. A table was also placed under it, with plenty of refreshment, both of solids and liquids.
After I was comfortably seated, his Majesty advanced towards me to drink my health, which was accompanied with loud hurrahs from his people. Provisions were then distributed in all directions, after I had been furnished. At some distance behind me were some Portuguese gentlemen, whom I had observed on the two previous days, but his Majesty seemed to take no notice of them more than of his own people. They were furnished with food in the same manner as his own people, without table or spoon, or any other implement beyond the calabash containing the food. I was a little surprised at this, particularly as I was aware that the Portuguese were the purchasers of many of the King’s slaves; but through my interpreter, Mayho thus explained the matter. He said the King was well aware that the pretended friendship of the Portuguese was entirely for selfish and pecuniary motives, whereas the English were not slave-dealers; moreover, that England was an independent nation, and the greatest in the white man’s world, as he himself was of the black man’s world; and declared that the friendship of one Englishman was worth that of a thousand Portuguese, and that the King’s father had always taught him to respect an Englishman. His Majesty desired me to drink the health of the Queen of England and all her family. I then proposed his Majesty’s health in the name of the Queen of England. At this he seemed much pleased, and asked me if the Queen allowed me to drink his health. I replied certainly: and that when a genuine compliment is paid to the Queen of England, she always returns it to the meanest of her subjects. This drew a general shout of applause from all his Majesty’s head people.
The King now retired to his previous position; and after I had partaken of some eatables, the day’s amusement commenced. All the principal men in his Majesty’s service were ordered to the front. They were all dressed in their most gaudy dresses, of various shapes and colours, according to the taste of the wearer; but all of the headmen wore silver gauntlets, and a profusion of beads and anklets, generally made of a common small iron chain, in substance similar to a horse-collar chain used in England, but the links merely closed, not welded. Others of lower rank, or second, as they are called (for each headman has his second), were dressed in their military dress. Several of the principal men were also disguised in masks and clowns’ dresses, who performed antics and all manner of buffoonery. Some had on masks resembling the head of a bear, others that of a monkey. Some also displayed a pair of silver horns fixed on the forehead by a bandeau. About ten yards in front of the place where his Majesty lay, three skulls were placed on the ground, forming an equilateral triangle, about three feet apart. At a little distance from the three last-named skulls a calabash was placed, containing several skulls of distinguished men taken or killed in war. On a low stool was also placed a large imitation of a skull in silver, but a very indifferent imitation, of Portuguese manufacture; and seven standards, with ridiculous devices rudely cut from different-coloured cloth, and sewed on them, chiefly relating to their defeat of the Makee or Mahee[19] people, a country about six days’ journey to the northward of Dahomey. The pole of each standard was mounted with the skull of a caboceer, or ruler of a town.
It would appear that the Mahees had many skirmishes with the Dahomans. On one occasion a trading party went from Dahomey to the Mahee country to traffic, but were robbed of their goods and murdered. This circumstance so enraged the King of Dahomey that he immediately collected all his soldiers, male and female, and marched them into the enemy’s country. His army, however, returned without either a negotiation or gaining a victory. Whereupon the King ordered his soldiers to return immediately, with orders to destroy the capital within three days. Accordingly, they returned by forced marches, and reached the capital of the Mahee country, which was found to be strongly fenced round with the same prickly bush I have already mentioned. The same night, or early on the following morning, the female soldiers took the place, with the King and his wives, and a great number of his headmen, without any resistance, and in three days the Dahomans (according to their own account) took one hundred and twenty-six towns, making the greater part of the enemy prisoners, and putting to death those who offered any resistance. This was the last great war in which the Dahomans had been engaged.
Near the King were placed several large staffs or walking-sticks, with a skull fixed on the upper end of each, the stick passing through the skull so as to leave about seven inches of the stick above the skull for the hand when walking. The stick is about four and a half feet long, and is used as the ancient pilgrim’s staff, being grasped perpendicularly, thumb upwards.
In a short time his Majesty expressed his wish to dance, which was approved of by all the people by loud yells and the firing of muskets. The King then came forward to the open space in front, where the three skulls were placed, and commenced a dance, or rather elephantine motion, the movement being all in the hips and shoulders. After moving in this way about one minute, his Majesty took one of the staffs and skulls, and recommenced dancing amongst the three skulls, which lay on the ground. He then ordered a cigar to be lighted for him, and began smoking; at the same time he folded his arms, with the staff under his arms, resting with his breast on the top of the skull, and displaying all the indifference possible. He then advanced towards me and gave me a cigar, and again desired me to drink his health. He asked me if I should like to be present on the following day to witness the execution of four (men) traitors, and proffered me the honour of being the executioner. This honour, however, I declined; but he pressed me, observing he should like to see the capability of my sword, which he admired much. I told him that I would rather save a man’s life than take it, unless in my own defence. This he admitted was all very good, but asked me whether I should like to save the life of a person who had attempted the life of my Queen? I, of course, replied, Certainly not. Then he told me that the crime of these men was similar. His Majesty now retired, and shortly afterwards sent me a second supply of provisions in several large calabashes, as wide as the old Winchester bushel, containing fowls, mutton, and pork.