The soups made here are very superior, though perhaps too hotly seasoned for European palates. Owing to the great concourse of people the heat was so great as to cause a drowsiness to come over me in consequence of sitting so long. His Majesty, observing this, very condescendingly forwarded to me a fine silver snuff-box, desiring me to take a pinch, at the same time directing his prime minister to tell me not to remain any longer than I felt inclined; but as I was aware that the whole affair had been got up at an enormous expense, entirely on my account, I returned my thanks, and informed the messenger that I enjoyed it much, and remained a considerable time longer, after which I begged leave to retire. He sent a messenger with his cane, in the evening, to ask how I was after sitting so long.
14th.—Again I visited the palace at half-past eight o’clock. The head, or commander, of one of his Majesty’s female regiments, named Godthimay, placed herself on her knees close to the three human skulls; and a regiment (before mentioned) who killed the alligator, presented themselves on their knees in tens, and Godthimay, as their spokesman, harangued the multitude and the King, extolling the valour of these women. When the harangue was over, Godthimay passed along the kneeling rank, and placing a hand in succession upon the head of each, dismissed them, and ten more occupied their place until this tedious ceremony was completed.
The ceremonies of this day were nearly a repetition of those of yesterday, till the time arrived (an hour before sunset) when the four traitors were brought into the square for execution. They marched through the mob, or assembled crowd, apparently as little concerned as the spectators, who seemed more cheerful than before the prisoners made their appearance, as if they were pleased with the prospect of a change of performance. The prisoners were marched close past me in slow time, consequently I had a good opportunity of minutely observing them, particularly as every person remained on his knees with the exception of myself and the guard who accompanied the prisoners.
They were all young men of the middle size, and appeared to be of one family, or at least of the same tribe of Mahees, who are much better looking than the people of the coast. Each man was gagged with a short piece of wood, with a small strip of white cotton tied round each end of the stick, and passed round the pole. This was to prevent them from speaking. They were arranged in line, kneeling before the King. The head gong-gong man then gave four beats on the gong, as one—two, and one—two, the upper part of the gong-gong being smaller than the lower, and thus rendering the sounds different, similar to our public clocks in England when striking the quarters. After the four beats, the gong man addressed the culprits upon the enormity of their crime and the justice of their sentence. During this lengthened harangue the gong-gong was struck at short intervals, which gave a sort of awful solemnity to the scene. After this, the men were suddenly marched some distance back from his Majesty, who on this occasion refused to witness the execution. The men were then ordered to kneel in line about nine feet apart, their hands being tied in front of the body, and the elbows held behind by two men, the body of the culprit bending forward. Poor old Mayho, who is an excellent man, was the proper executioner. He held the knife or bill-hook to me, but I again declined the honour; when the old man, at one blow on the back of the neck, divided the head from the body of the first culprit, with the exception of a small portion of the skin, which was separated by passing the knife underneath. Unfortunately, the second man was dreadfully mangled, for the poor fellow, at the moment the blow was struck having raised his head, the knife struck in a slanting direction, and only made a large wound; the next blow caught him on the back of the head, when the brain protruded. The poor fellow struggled violently. The third stroke caught him across the shoulders, inflicting a dreadful gash. The next caught him on the neck, which was twice repeated. The officer steadying the criminal now lost his hold on account of the blood which rushed from the blood-vessels on all who were near. Poor old Mayho, now quite palsied, took hold of the head, and after twisting it several times round, separated it from the still convulsed and struggling trunk. During the latter part of this disgusting execution the head presented an awful spectacle, the distortion of the features, and the eyeballs completely upturned, giving it a horrid appearance. The next man, poor fellow, with his eyes partially shut and head drooping forward near to the ground, remained all this time in suspense; casting a partial glance on the head which was now close to him, and the trunk dragged close past him, the blood still rushing from it like a fountain. Mayho refused to make another attempt, an another man acted in his stead, and at one blow separated the spinal bone, but did not entirely separate the head from the body. This was finished in the same manner as the first. However, the fourth culprit was not so fortunate, his head not being separated till after three strokes. The body afterwards rolled over several times, when the blood spurted over my face and clothes.
The most disgusting part of this abominable and barbarous execution was that of an old ill-looking wretch, who, like the numerous vultures, stood with a small calabash in his hand, ready to catch the blood from each individual, which he greedily devoured before it had escaped one minute from the veins. The old wretch had the impudence to put some rum in the blood and ask me to drink; at that moment I could with good heart have sent a bullet through his head. Before execution, the victim is furnished with a clean white cloth to tie round the loins. After decapitation the body is immediately dragged off by the heels, to a large pit at a considerable distance from the town, and thrown therein, and is immediately devoured by wolves and vultures, which are here so ravenous, that they will almost take your victuals from you.
June 20th.—I again visited the palace, to attend the custom or holiday. The commencement of this day’s amusement presented a most ludicrous scene. Four tall men, singularly dressed, and with bullocks’ tails tied so as to hang over their hips behind, arranged themselves in line, in front of his Majesty, and by passing at the side step, lowering and poising the body by the bend of the knee, caused the tail to make a circular motion of a disgusting appearance. This was considered one of the most interesting parts of this performance of buffoonery.
I forgot to mention that the palace which I visited this day was different from that which I visited on the two previous days. In the entrances of the doors, human skulls were built in the walls, about half the skull projecting beyond the surface of the walls. After a number of introductions, similar to those on the former days, the King’s mother entered the court, preceded by six women, carrying large brass pans filled with skulls, with shank bones fixed perpendicularly to the outside of the pans. Another pan, covered with scarlet cloth, as also two other pots of an oval shape, were carried on the heads of females, with a skull placed on the top, or over the mouth of each. After parading these different vessels round the palace-yard, they were placed on the ground, in front of several calabashes (previously placed there), containing a number of scalps. The King’s mother is a stout old lady of about eighty years of age, and was dressed in a rich silk velvet tunic of crimson, with a large robe or train supported by two women. Her head is covered with an immense large Spanish beaver hat of nine inches brim, trimmed with gold lace. The mother placed herself in front of the King, and prostrated herself, throwing dirt or earth over her old grey hair; like all the others, no distinction being made in her case. The old woman then got up and danced before his Majesty; and at this moment, the King’s grandmother arrived. She is still more stout than the mother, and although about one hundred years of age, still preserves her plumpness and symmetry.
These two ancient dames both joined in the dance, and it was certainly surprising to see with what agility they moved, considering their years. They again prostrated themselves, and advanced towards his Majesty on their knees. After a short conversation they distributed a large quantity of cowries amongst their head people. The cowries are all strung on a piece of grass, forty cowries on each string. Fifty strings is a head, and the value of a dollar of silver. The King’s principal or favourite wives wear coronets of silver, as well as the wives of his principal ministers. Some of the King’s wives also wear a short dagger, similar to those worn by young midshipmen in the British Navy, stuck between a bandeau and the head, point downwards. His Majesty came, as usual, to my canopy and shook hands with me, inquiring after my health, and desired to drink to me; but, after a moment’s consideration, proposed the health of the Queen of England first. After drinking to Her Majesty, the King drank my health, and in return I drank his health. His Majesty then desired all his headmen to draw near, and begged me to play the Jew’s harp, with one of which I had presented him. This ancient Israelitish instrument afforded much sweeter music than their bullocks’ horns and elephants’ teeth, and was consequently much admired. The King next desired me to play while he danced to my music, and afterwards desired me to dance with him and play the while. It was rather a difficult task to dance and play the Jew’s harp at the same time. However, as this was considered the highest mark of honour which could possibly be conferred upon me, civility would not allow me to refuse; and although I never was an excellent dancer, I did my best on this occasion, and gained the applause of his Majesty, as well as the deafening applause of all present, except the Ashantees and some Portuguese, who were extremely jealous of me, particularly as the King never condescended to notice any of them during their stay at Dahomey, farther than by sending them provisions daily, as is the King’s habit during this annual festival or custom.
This day his Majesty gave away to his people eight hundred head of cowries, and gave me five head and a gallon of rum for dancing with him. He then desired me to play to and dance with his favourite wives, after which he sent plenty of provisions for myself and people. The amusement terminated in a similar way to those on the preceding day, and in the evening I returned home, through a dense crowd of people scarcely passable for the space of half a mile.
After this I did not visit the palace till the 19th, when his Majesty desired my presence. The ceremony on this day was much the same as on the previous mentioned days, but the King seemed rather disinclined to let me proceed any farther, until I should take a message from him to England for the Queen of England, and that upon my return I should be welcome to go through any part of his kingdom, together with as many Englishmen as I thought proper to bring with me. However, I informed him that it was impossible for me to do so, as I could not return till I had visited and passed over the Kong Mountains; and that my objects were purely scientific, and as much for his benefit as that of others. This, he said, he doubted not, for he would never suspect an Englishman of any thing unjust, or unbecoming the character of so great a nation; but as he himself could not write, he was anxious to send me as his messenger to the Queen of England, I informed him that the Queen of England never received any communication of importance verbally, but that it must be reduced to writing, and I volunteered to be his scribe for that purpose. For this he returned me thanks, and then at once consented to allow me to proceed, promising also to send a guard of honour with me through the Mahee country, with whom the Dahomans have of late been at war. He seems very doubtful of my safety beyond his capital, although he does not confess it. He has so lately conquered that country, that I do not believe the King has great confidence in them, farther than their dread of the law compels them. However, he informed me that I must wait a week or ten days, till he could arrange which of the caboceers, or headmen, to send with me.